half decent sound system?

[justin12234]

600 watt amp would work just keep it turned to about half its power capability unless you get 2 subs, as far as head unit you wanna make sure it has the pre outs for an amp, Boss audio equipment is decent. Does the amp have a bass knob with it?

im not sure, its in my dads truck under his seat atm, ill eventually check it.

the HU has 4 preamp outputs, but no sub preamp output so it looks like that hu is out lol

 

[gmcyukondriver]

im not sure, its in my dads truck under his seat atm, ill eventually check it.

the HU has 4 preamp outputs, but no sub preamp output so it looks like that hu is out lol

My setup, I actually had a 4 channel amp. I ran the front door speakers on the front left and right channel. Then, I bridged the rear output for my sub. It worked just fine, and saved me space of having to get a separate amp for my sub. A couple things though, since I ran two door speakers per channel, it brought the resistance to 2 ohms, make sure the amp can handle that. Second, make sure it's ok to bridge the amp. After that, just kick back and relax.

It would be better if you had a separate subwoofer output on the back of the H/U, that way you could turn the sub up or down without having to use the EQ curve to alter the bass, because that affects door speakers too. However, if you run the sub on the "rear" channel coming out of the H/U, you could also use the fader to simply increase the power to the sub, you know what I mean?

Originally, my amp was hooked up to the front and rear outputs on my H/U, because I was planning on running my far back speakers on that channel, but I decided to get the sub and wire it into that input, and it worked just fine. It takes some tweaking on the H/U and amp for that channel, but I was getting good sound. A couple days later, I pulled my H/U out and switched the rear output, which was powering the sub channel, to the sub output on the H/U. Didn't make much of a difference in the sound, but just gave me more individual control over the sub.

 

[96k1500]

If the amp has a bass knob you can use the preamp outputs if it doesnt have one you would want a hu with the sub output

 

[justin12234]

with a sub being behind me, would i really even need the rear speakers? right now with the front speakers and a 10" sub it doesnt seem to low or anything

 

[gmcyukondriver]

with a sub being behind me, would i really even need the rear speakers? right now with the front speakers and a 10" sub it doesnt seem to low or anything

You could always use the amp to power the front speakers and sub, and leave the rear speakers wired to the head unit like stock. That way, you still get some sound out of them. That's what I did with my far back speakers (SUV's have speakers in the roof in the very back). Might as well leave them wired, some sound is better than no sound (unless you're saying that you wouldn't buy speakers for that area, in which case I would say "yes, you should be fine with just door speakers", but if you do that, make sure they have good sound range.)

 

[96k1500]

I have 2 kicker cvr 12s on a 1500 watt amp in my truck with the back speakers disconnected and only the door speakers and its sounds great, even with my subs turned all the way up I can still hear my door speakers clearly

 

[MOBS]

A small but very decent sound setup, would be the P3 series dvc 4-ohm(10"/12"/15" depending on space available) hooked to a P300 monoblock. Excellent sound, produces high quality bass notes for not so much cash. But whatever you decide to do, make sure you get a box with a volume in the acceptable range of your sub, best to get as close as possible to the optimum volume of sub. A premade ported isn't bad so long as it's tuned to around 35-40Hz, those frequencies provide good quality bass that won't shake, rattle & roll your vehicle to death. If it's single cab and you have the center console/seat removed, a P3D410 in a slot-ported box should work really well, or a P3D412 in a sealed may also fit there. My truck had a P3D415 slot ported running on that P300.1 monoblock, but it's an ecsb, so I had more room. I could've fit 3 of them back there, but it would've been close and at the time, I really wasn't too much interested in a permanent setup since the truck was soon to be torn down for rebuild.

But yeah, I'd suggest the P3D4 in 10, 12, or 15" size wired in parallel to 2-ohms run by the P300 monoblock, you can't go wrong with that setup, and it'll last you for years.

If/when you decide to upgrade from that, I'd suggest doing the Big-3 wiring upgrade first, then alternator and battery, then finally your system. A mid-high end system will cut out or distort with power loss from an inadequate supply of power....and the high end stuff like what's going in mine will require major mods....like not having a/c for one

 

[blackcoffee]

JL 3 channel amp for the 2 door speakers and the 1 sub. Then go memphis 12" there best one if you can afford it with a cab length ported box behind the seats if you have captains chairs. 4 gauge wiring stinger wires, have a decent battery and an aftermarket head unit or a line output converter. GETRDONE

 

[MOBS]

Those output converters never work the way I want them too....if ya got an mp3/mp4 player, get a cheap head unit with rca-outs and aux inputs, then use your aux to run your portable player....that's my current setup, but I have a tendency to look at the screen to change songs, which can be dangerous while driving.

 

[justin12234]

the amp is a old jensen lxa600, 4 x 75 rms (125 peak) or 2 x 200 rms. so far my dad has used it for atleast 6 years and its reliable, however i have to download a manual and its 4ohm bridged, and the p1 is 8 ohms, will that affect it in a bad way?