Sound deadening in doors

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Canadian Rust Bucket

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Hello all,
I've seen a few posts of people putting sound deadener in/on their doors for sound deadening.I would like to do the same, but I worry about water retention and potentially promoting rust. I put in a new sound system and want to get everything out of it that I can, but not at the expense of rotting the body metal.

Can anyone weigh in on whether or not adding insulation will cause the door skins or inners to prematurely rust?

Thanks,
 

LOH CHO

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Sound deadening is a very thin malleable compound “very sticky” not sure what the correct term for what it’s called but anyways, as long as you clean the area for maximum adhesion and use a roller to apply it, not a beer can you will be fine.

It’s not going to retain or absorb water. If it’s contacting the panel correctly nothing should get behind it. Again use a roller, you can usually get a small set from Amazon pretty cheap.
 

LOH CHO

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I use Noico from Amazon. I do not put it on the bottom 6" of the door so I can spray rustproofing there.
No concerns about it helping rust. The factory uses it in many places on cars.
I second the Noico, I think it’s a little wild how expensive Killmat or Secondskin is for 10sqft no thanks.

My Noico is still stuck on there perfectly fine 3 years now.
 

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Orpedcrow

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Roller and a heat gun help activate the butyl. Vertical surfaces need to be especially clean. I use aluminum tape along the edges to seal the butyl, helps to prevent a bunch of crud sticking to it.

I would use a sound deadener on the skins and a mass loaded vinyl (MLV) behind the door panel. Of course you can get as crazy as you want. If you really want to go down the rabbit hole, check out some SQ builds (sound quality) those guys are nuts.
 

Canadian Rust Bucket

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Roller and a heat gun help activate the butyl. Vertical surfaces need to be especially clean. I use aluminum tape along the edges to seal the butyl, helps to prevent a bunch of crud sticking to it.

I would use a sound deadener on the skins and a mass loaded vinyl (MLV) behind the door panel. Of course you can get as crazy as you want. If you really want to go down the rabbit hole, check out some SQ builds (sound quality) those guys are nuts.

Without the foil tape the tar gets everywhere! It was worth the roll I used on my floor and firewall, just to not track tar all over the shop.

I've heard of MLV before but don't really have any experience with it. Thanks for the tip on the SQ builds, I'll do some research.
 

SNCTMPL

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Roller and a heat gun help activate the butyl. Vertical surfaces need to be especially clean. I use aluminum tape along the edges to seal the butyl, helps to prevent a bunch of crud sticking to it.

I would use a sound deadener on the skins and a mass loaded vinyl (MLV) behind the door panel. Of course you can get as crazy as you want. If you really want to go down the rabbit hole, check out some SQ builds (sound quality) those guys are nuts.
That is no joke about that rabbit hole. I went over to diymobileaudio to figure out the best way to add a sub in my Duramax and it took me about two years to find my way out. But I have one sweet sounding truck . Here’s a couple of pics of how the doors turned out. Although I ended up with different midbass than what is in the picture.

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Orpedcrow

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That is no joke about that rabbit hole. I went over to diymobileaudio to figure out the best way to add a sub in my Duramax and it took me about two years to find my way out. But I have one sweet sounding truck . Here’s a couple of pics of how the doors turned out. Although I ended up with different midbass than what is in the picture.

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Heck yea. Nice install!!
 
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