Feels like rolling over something after extended a arms

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Supercharged111

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Priority 1 should be to decrank, priority 2 should be to worry about everything else. My truck is cranked about as far as I'm willing to go and none of my angles suck half as bad as yours. Hell you could be slamming against the travel limit of balljoints. Look at your UCA in relation to the knuckle. Those should not be very far from parallel at all. Looks like you cranked even farther once you put the arms on, that's not what they're for.
 

Iadn43

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Priority 1 should be to decrank, priority 2 should be to worry about everything else. My truck is cranked about as far as I'm willing to go and none of my angles suck half as bad as yours. Hell you could be slamming against the travel limit of balljoints. Look at your UCA in relation to the knuckle. Those should not be very far from parallel at all.

Like I said I think I’m going too sects I and do the diff drop. I believe that may fix it
 

Supercharged111

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Like I said I think I’m going too sects I and do the diff drop. I believe that may fix it

The diff is about 1/3 of your problem. Ball joint and tie rod angles will still be terrible. Correcting CV angles alone is not enough. To run the height you want can only be done with lift knuckles or a real lift kit.
 

Iadn43

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The diff is about 1/3 of your problem. Ball joint and tie rod angles will still be terrible. Correcting CV angles alone is not enough. To run the height you want can only be done with lift knuckles or a real lift kit.

I haven’t been able too find lift knuckles any where
 

Hipster

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Only place I found them was I think super loft but the guy said they wouldn’t do anything and that I needed a diff drop. He said the lift knuckle would be a waste of money.

You really need a full kit. I don't think you'll find a company that will sell you a partial one. I don't know if you're going to be able to piece meal it together and keep the geometry correct. All of the suspension mounting points, steering linkage, and the diff need to drop. ALL OF IT. The inner to outer tie rod angle is also important. What you have going on with the tie rod angles will introduce enough bumpsteer where a little bump in the road will put you in the next lane into oncoming traffic at 60mph.

This is coming from a lifelong collision repair guy that's pretty well versed in suspension damage, drive-ability issues and diagnosis/repair.

Do yourself a favor and get an engineered kit.

Sorry guy, safety first. Not only yours but the family of 4 beside you. Never take the short cut on suspension or steering.
 
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