Did I break my truck?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

89RCLB

I'm Awesome...
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2017
Messages
1,132
Reaction score
971
Location
Falcon, CO
Thus the reason for troubleshooting rather than just throw parts at it, plus you lose the lesson of working through issues and resolving them in an organized manner. Sorry, not preaching just my personal way of accomplishing the end goal.

One more thing to check that I can think of is the vacuum hose coming off of the back of the TBI, pull it and check it for splits in the hard hose as well as the boots on both ends. I believe the loud air sound you are referring to is a product of no air cleaner housing mounted on the TBI. Put it back in place and see if that's what it is.

I'm not sure what that connector is but maybe someone else can chime in.
 

Richard Jones

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 23, 2017
Messages
83
Reaction score
24
Location
Kansas City
I agree with you on the troubleshooting, just figured those both needed replaced and didn't mind spending to be sure they are working. I don't see any vacuum leak around that hose on the throttle body at all. Definitely would love to figure out where that plug belongs. For now I'm just stuck. I'll keep trying but after next week it's getting towed to a shop.
 

joep88cheyenne

I'm Awesome
Joined
Nov 4, 2016
Messages
183
Reaction score
42
Location
near Dallas, tx
Look at your air cleaner housing and see if it has a connection on it. You do need to have the air cleaner properly connected during testing as it can affect your readings or cause erroneous issues to occur.
+1 on replace and test then replace and test to work through issues. Example I know of is O2 sensors. Mine was throwing code for rich O2 sensor and it was faulty spark plug wires on 2 plugs. They would not stay connected.

Another is my ac quit cooling. When I got around to testing found a wire off the back area had popped off. I could have spent a lot of money replacing parts on that issue, but saved all my money by reconnecting it. The connector cover separated from the connector and the connector didn't look like any I have seen. Is it fixed, no, does it work and cool yes. Can I live with it this way for now definitely. And yes I want to make perminant repair. I am unable to crawl up and see the connection point att.
Save money replace most likely to fail first, fuse, bulb, wire connections, grounds before high dollar outlay for non faulty part.
 

wheelman

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
116
Reaction score
18
Replaced both sensors... No change. And in the process found this plug and don't know where it belongs? Still idling very high and seems like its not getting much fuel and has a loud air sound.
You must be registered for see images attach
95 C1500
5.0 305

Help!

Lol OK so here is what's going on. I have had a constant high idle that is 1000 at start up then after driving it is consistently around 1300-1500 at idle. This all started few weeks ago, since then I replaced PCV and hose, no change. Replaced iac, no change. This morning I replaced throttle body base gasket, at start up it idles 1500 immediately, when I give any gas it bogs down immediately, when I shut it off I hear a loud screech coming from somewhere... What did I do wrong? I need to get it at least in the shape it was in prior to replacing gasket. I am not a mechanic probably should've gotten help with this but have done more difficult things successfully on my own. I'm stumped.

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Richard Jones

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 23, 2017
Messages
83
Reaction score
24
Location
Kansas City
Ok the first thing you need to do is get the codes from the ECM.If you don't know how to do this, just look on U tube. You may have a TPS issue. Also you may have a vacuum leak, but the ECM codes will not tell you this. You can check this with a propane torch ( like the little one you buy at Lows ) and open it unlit over the vacuum hoses and connections. If there is a leak, the engine will d]speed up when it sucks in the propane fumes.
OK the first time I got the codes it worked perfectly fine, now I am unable to get any codes or any flash of the SEL... It just stays on constant when I turn key to on position as well as when truck is running. Any reason for this?
 

kennythewelder

Officially Retired, B31-3 (6-G) certified welder.
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2014
Messages
6,536
Reaction score
9,236
Location
Louisiana
Did you disconnect the battery ? If so, this cleared your codes, but don't panic. If you are not getting a flashing SEL, it means there are no codes.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 

Richard Jones

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 23, 2017
Messages
83
Reaction score
24
Location
Kansas City
Did you disconnect the battery ? If so, this cleared your codes, but don't panic. If you are not getting a flashing SEL, it means there are no codes.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Even if the SEL is on its possible I'm not getting any codes? Do I need to get a scanner to figure out why the light is on?
 
Top