CUSTOM Front Stabilizer bar Links

[GoToGuy]

Excellent! , the only change in your process , is a plastic blast media, then rough glass bead blast, and your paint plan. Fight the good fight against corrosion.

 

[revmatcher]

OK the stabilizer bar is back in. I'm trying to get the motor running so will remove and paint the lower control arms and frame here later. Here's the bar installed.

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[revmatcher]

Here's a little tutorial on how to install.

1. Put the truck on jackstands. This is even harder if the suspension is unloaded.
2. Apply lubricant inside the bushings, and never-seez inside the spacer tube.
3. Install the stabilizer bar loosely at the frame connections.
4. Install the link bolt upwards with both bottom bushings, lower top bushing and 3 large washers. Leave it loose, about 1/4" low in the arm.
5. Put the end of the bar on the top of the link bolt, and put the upper bushing on the bolt.
6. Clamp the link bolt from the bottom so it's held all the way in. I used a big C-Clamp.
7. Using a big bar, pry against the frame mount for the upper control arm to push the stabilizer bar farther down onto the link bolt.
8. With the link bolt clamped in, it's not possible to put the nut on the top because the upper control arm is in the way. Remove the clamp, and with a small screwdriver gently pry against the upper control arm to push the bolt down a bit. Get it just low enough to get the nut between the top of the bolt and the upper arm.
9. Install the nut a couple threads, then tighten to compress everything together.
10. Remove the nut.
11. Pry the link bolt down lower again. Because everything is compressed, you should be able to leave enough threads exposed to get the washer and nut back on the top. This is a real dance due to clearance to the upper control arm. This would be a LOT easier if that interference wasn't there, but I suppose the link and upper arm line up on purpose for best suspension geometry. Or the GM engineers are just mean.
12. Tighten her up, good to go!

 

[revmatcher]

Here's a little thing I did that made this a little easier. The small hole on top of the lower control arm, where the bottom of the link bolt connects, is off-center from the larger access hole in the bottom of the lower control arm. It's very difficult to get a socket on this, especially when the bolt is not pushed all the way up. I modified a socket by grinding away the back shoulder, helping me get it on the head of the link bolt. Here are some pictures.


ACCESS HOLE OFF-CENTER

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MODIFIED SOCKET

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SOCKET ON LINK BOLT VIA ACCESS HOLE

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[revmatcher]

Excellent! , the only change in your process , is a plastic blast media, then rough glass bead blast, and your paint plan. Fight the good fight against corrosion.

Inside the frame was painted the same way before the motor went in.

AFTER SEALER PRIMER

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FINISHED - 8 COATS TOTAL. Took several weeks of cleaning, wire brushing and painting to get here!

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