CUSTOM Front Stabilizer bar Links

[revmatcher]

I made custom stabilizer bar links. These are 316 stainless, from M12 bolts and bushings from Mevotech.
Any opinions?? These will never rust!

Top Mevotech - TINY bolts!
Mid - Stock GM part
Bottom - Tom G 316 Stainless

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[Schurkey]

MOST stainless bolts are very weak. About the equivalent to Grade 2 hardware-store junk.

SOME stainless bolts are almost as strong as Grade 5. Not impossible to find, tend to be somewhat expensive.

DAMNED FEW stainless bolts are anywhere close to Grade 8, and they're wildly expensive.

Pretty-much any stainless bolt/nut will need anti-seize to prevent galling. Without it, stainless bolts tend to be "one-use" and have to be broken or cut to get them apart.

Stainless is not my first choice for that application. Regular Grade 5 is entirely suitable; although I like the crimped, all-steel lock nuts rather than Nyloc nuts.

"316" stainless bolts can range anywhere from about Grade 2 equivalent to slightly better than Grade 5 for tensile strength. It's difficult to know what you're buying, especially with Communist Crap infesting the bolt bins.

Yield strength sucks, though. At best, about the equivalent to Grade 2, but potentially much worse.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Boy they do look nice but I'm with Shurkey. SS work hardens and end links are subject to a lot of compression and extension. Because you have used metal that is just under 1/2"dia. may make them hold up.

 

[GrimsterGMC]

When using S/Steel fasteners always use the same grades together, don't use 316 bolts with 304 washers etc or they will rust very quickly. Stainless steel still contains over 50% Iron so will rust when not used correctly. And as stated above common grades are quite malleable.

 

[454cid]

Given the OP has upped the size of the bolt, the fact that replacements are made super cheap to begin with, and consequences of breakage are low, I think this is a fine project. I so suggest anti-seize on the threads and under the sleeve. Taking these links apart is just about impossible, without cutting, after awhile.

 

[Orpedcrow]

I’m not as informed on the metallurgy of stainless as some of the others so I won’t comment on strength, but I do know and agree that you’re gonna want to slather the tubes and washers in some kind of anti-sneeze.

They do look really nice though, and a broken end link won’t cause a catastrophic failure that results in a wreck so… I say run’em and if they don’t last you’ll just have to get the yellow grade 8 stuff

 

[454cid]

I’m not as informed on the metallurgy of stainless as some of the others so I won’t comment on strength, but I do know and agree that you’re gonna want to slather the tubes and washers in some kind of anti-sneeze.

 

[revmatcher]

Thanks guys. Much appreciated feedback. After a Buffalo winter with ludicrous amounts of road salt I'll let you know how we did. All parts are 316 stainless BTW. The washers are super thick, and the bolts are FAR more stout than the aftermarket crap.

 

[revmatcher]

(2) M12x240 bolts cost $43.
(8) 6mm thick washers were $18.
(2) M12 Nylock nuts were $5.
Took the bushings from the Mevotech bars.

 

[Schurkey]

How many sets of "ordinary" sway-bar end links could you buy for $66 plus the cost of the rubber/Poly bushings?

Each set would probably last 10+ years, perhaps significantly longer than 10 years. In general, it's the rubber bushings that fail, not the steel hardware.