Cunningham Machine Upper/Lower Steering Shafts?

[offroadtahoe]

180 degree flipped correct position
(set screw on bottom)

 

[A97obs]

180 degree flipped correct position
(set screw on bottom)

Ahhh” ok so another words plan on having to tighten the set screw 180* reaching from the bottom of the truck facing up ?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Ahhh” ok so another words plan on having to tighten the set screw 180* reaching from the bottom of the truck facing up ?

Or, once engaged, spin the steering wheel 180deg so the set screw's facing up for E-Z access.

 

[A97obs]

I got it resolved !
Took your recommendation on rotating the U-Joint with steering locked placing the bolt 360* which puts “Set screw ”down at the bottom accessible near the pitman arm.
I did some self adjustments on the tie rod sleeves yesterday to fix my alignment just a bit and today when I removed the U-joint shaft off the gear box “gear” , The flat spot was randomly at 12’ oclock where it needs to be and should have been !

Additionally I went and got a grade 8
M8x1.25 25mm hex bolt with “2” jamb nuts and got a good crank and lock directly in the Channel to keep the shaft from every pulling away . I used two Jamb nuts because it gives a better position and grip for a 13mm wrench , Just seemed like the right thing to do .

“Allen” set screws are what they are . Ya they may hold “Maybe” if you can get enough snug on one , but if it ever strips due to “threads” rusting you ain’t getting it out easily. I’d rather have 10mm hex and ratchet to remove and service over playing fiddle games with an Allen wrench. It’s beyond me why these companies chintry out on such a minor yet important part . Can’t be that cost effective
Thanks for the suggestions
@offroadtahoe
@1998_K1500_Sub

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[A97obs]

Or, once engaged, spin the steering wheel 180deg so the set screw's facing up for E-Z access.

It was actually easier to leave it below. 88-94 tbi trucks have little to nothing above the drive side frame rail.
In my case being a 95+ truck , plus my truck has CA emissions so I have to fight a secondary a.i.r pump / 2nd batter tray plus I felt like the PS hoses …etc just were in the way .

IMHO it’s super easy to access to get to the set screw with an extension and 10mm socket from laying directly under the truck , plus my trucks lifted , so wasn’t all that bad.

All in all it worked great

 

[2drXmobb]

How's it drive? Planning on doing this next or just fix the rag joint with a dorman can't find any oem ones leftm

 

[A97obs]

How's it drive? Planning on doing this next or just fix the rag joint with a dorman can't find any oem ones leftm

It Drives good ! Take into consideration it takes 20 years for a was joint to wear to nothing and the slop on a new one is extra minimal .
I can tell you the U-joint shafts are a diff design over stock the oem design as far as how the set bolt and joint secures to the gear box gear is superior over aftermarket!
The mfgrs apparently refuse to make the set screw design like oem…
But the modification replacing the “Allen” set screw for a m8x1.25 hex head 25mm long with jamb nuts .. for me is better for ease of tightening a removal down the line.
The shafts make a good difference in turning, but the real fix is the 12:7:1 gear box swap . All the play your gonna find in these trucks is 75% gear box “providing” , all your ball joints tie rods linkages aren’t worn .
For the price it’s worth it . Just make sure you install it right .

If you feel comfortable with this little Allen Set screw they all seem to come with go ahead, but remember if they strip inside and the threads rust now you’re drilling it out

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Or do this route replace that set screw with a 2$ M8x1.25 bolt with blue thread locker 20-30mm long is fine

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Simple 2$ modification that imho is all that these shafts need to be safer and hassle free imho. But people can use what comes with it if they so choose . The only reason they get “Allen” set screws is probably cut cost . I
Mean for f** sakes these parts are steering components. We use Allen head bolts on BMX Bicycles steering stems.
Or better yet let’s just sell lug nuts with a t50 torx design and call it safe
You get the drift lol…

 

[2drXmobb]

I wonder why they designed it like that it would make more sense to have a fixed bolt that goes all the way through for extra security.

 

[A97obs]

I wonder why they designed it like that it would make more sense to have a fixed bolt that goes all the way through for extra security.

You can’t drill or run a bolt all the way through the gear box output shaft they are not solid , they’re partially hollow inside the output shaft so the PS fluid would be everywhere . . The oem design is fine tho , just build the U-joint at the end portion just like the oem as far as how it clamps/bolts/secure sand it would be 100… I mean this works find with the swapped bolt and way more secure.

I asked cunning the same thing .. wasn’t a good answer aside from we don’t have issues with the “Allen bolts” It doesn’t make for good QC safety imho. Prob done to cut cost , but they make good sh** .. especially the Door pins and bushings !!

 

[KansasOBS]

All that set screw does is prevent the shaft from pulling out, which it doesn't see those types of forces normally driving. The reason the stock has a bolt is because its split, and requires clamping pressure. You could literally drive without it on the new joint.

The steering joints have used allens as long as I can remember, none of this is new. Same stuff been used in hot rods for a long time. No problems. They don't use a regular bolt, so there is less hanging out to catch on things.