changing to 6 lug

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Swims350

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that is a good point because almost all of the larger size wheels are 6 lug anymore.

But for me, I don't like big wheels, and I don't care much for the smaller wheel choices in the 6 lug.

From what I read tho to the OP, the 3/4 ton 2wd 6 lug you can swap over might need the spindle, but for sure you gott have the hub/rotor assy. and the caliper and such, then switch rearends.
 

milky9788

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that is a good point because almost all of the larger size wheels are 6 lug anymore.

But for me, I don't like big wheels, and I don't care much for the smaller wheel choices in the 6 lug.

I get what you're saying and I didn't used to like bigger wheels either til I saw the newer stock wheels

And to the OP let me know what setup you're going to do cause I can't decide between the 6-lug conversion or just buying 6-lug adapters
 

Swims350

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I thought on that same thing adapters but I just don't trust them, worried they'd break, plus they add an inch or so, meaning you need more backspace maybe custom order wheels and cost more.
 

darren250r

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I thought on that same thing adapters but I just don't trust them, worried they'd break, plus they add an inch or so, meaning you need more backspace maybe custom order wheels and cost more.

You need the spacers to run the newer wheels. I explained the whole thing above. To my knowledge there aren't adapters to convert Chevy 5-lug to 6-lug. I don't think there is a way to not have at least one stud overlap. That's why you need to convert.
 

GreaseDog

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you have to watch what spindles you have. if memory serves me correctly, 88-91 C1500 standard cabs got a smaller spindle than the extended cabs and C2500s (which are the same), after 92 all C1500s and LD C2500s got the same spindles. i put a 93 LD C2500 14SF and the front rotors off of the same truck on my 92 C1500. it was completely bolt on.

as for the rear, 2wd rears are the same width as the C1500 10 bolts, while the 4wd versions are 3" wider. you will need the upper and lower spring plates to accomidate the 14SF's larger axle tubes.

as for the ujoint, i've already done the legwork on that...
i compiled this information for posting on another site, and thought that it may be useful here as well.

Universal joints:
Swapping a 14 bolt in place of a 10 bolt can get a little tricky to some because of the possible need for a conversion U joint. All 14 bolts that i have seen, both SF and FF, use a Spicer 1350 U joint. With this said, GM doesn't commonly use a Spicer 1350 joint on 1/2 ton trucks, most commonly they use a Saginaw S44 joint. I have however seen Spicer 1310 joints, and the occasional Spicer 1330.

Obtaining a positive ID on the joint isn't hard at all, just pull the joint, and measure it. If by chance you have stock U joints, you'll have to take a torch, and heat the caps up until all of the nylon melts out of the driveshaft and oozes out of the holes. Rather than using a retainer clip like the replacement joints do, GM uses an injected nylon retainer. Now that you've got the U joint out, you can measure it and see what it actually is. Here are the specs of the 4 above joints:

Saginaw S44: Cap diameter- 1.125", Lockup - Internal (clips inside the yoke) 2.556"
Spicer 1310: Cap diameter - 1.063", Lockup - External (clips outside the yoke) 3.219"
Spicer 1330: Cap diameter - 1.063", lockup - External 3.622"
Spicer 1350: Cap diameter - 1.188", Lockup - External 3.622"

Now that you have determined the stock U joint, you can find which conversion joint you need:

Straight Size Joints:
S44 Neapco PN: 2-3011
1310 Neapco PN: 1-0153
1330 Neapco PN: 2-4800
1350 Neapco PN: 2-0053

Conversion Joints:
S44 to 1350 is Neapco PN 2-1153
1310 to 1350 is Neapco PN 3-3140
1330 to 1350 is Neapco PN 2-3050

If by chance you have any other combination, which would be an extremely rare case, you can look up the joints by size here: http://www.aawheel.com/SiteResources...oUniversal.pdf Dimensional listings start on page 260.
 

GreaseDog

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and as for the wheel spacers, make sure you get spacers with studs, not just longer studs and 6 holes in them. i've been running them for 3 years on the rear of my K1500 (and the same 14SF i put into the 92 mentioned above) without an issue.
 

droptopgokart

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Ok so I know I'm digging up an old post, but I really want to do this I've found a 2wd 3/4 ton doner truck. So I've read about this on multiple forums, but have not seen the answer I'm looking for My truck currently has 2" drop spindles and 2" drop springs, Am I going to be able to keep my 1/2 ton spindles and just use the 3/4 ton hub/rotor also what about the brake calipers?

91 Chevrolet 1500 single Cab.
 

oohunter04oo

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Ok so I know I'm digging up an old post, but I really want to do this I've found a 2wd 3/4 ton doner truck. So I've read about this on multiple forums, but have not seen the answer I'm looking for My truck currently has 2" drop spindles and 2" drop springs, Am I going to be able to keep my 1/2 ton spindles and just use the 3/4 ton hub/rotor also what about the brake calipers?

91 Chevrolet 1500 single Cab.

Correct, it is as simple a swapping your rotors!
 

supertrucker1978

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Ok so I know I'm digging up an old post, but I really want to do this I've found a 2wd 3/4 ton doner truck. So I've read about this on multiple forums, but have not seen the answer I'm looking for My truck currently has 2" drop spindles and 2" drop springs, Am I going to be able to keep my 1/2 ton spindles and just use the 3/4 ton hub/rotor also what about the brake calipers?

91 Chevrolet 1500 single Cab.

In 88-91 there was a light duty brake and heavy duty brake option. The light duty has a 1 inch thick rotor and the heavy duty has a 1.25 inch thick rotor. So you have to measure your rotors to see what brakes you have. The spindles will be different so you cant swap between the 2. If you have the 1.25 inch thick rotors then you will be able to swap over the 6 lug if you only have 1 inch then you need different spindles. Calipers on your truck should work just fine with the 6 lug rotors.
 
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