Budget SAS swap questions

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TexasRebel

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For clearance reasons, I'd recommend no less than 6" with leaf springs. Should give you enough room to run a straight drag ling with crossover steering.

With coils, you don't NEED to run crossover and you don't need to worry about the drag link hitting the springs, so steering clearance isn't as big of an issue, though you still need to watch the frame if you're running a straight tie rod. However you can still run into issues elsewhere. Wouldn't want the axle hitting the frame, the diff housing hitting the pitman arm/drag link, etc.

If you're trying to keep it low with leafs, don't do the 52" rear springs. They push the axle forward, they give you more lift, and they're too soft in stock form.

For a budget setup like you're describing, for the front I'd recommend an 8 lug Dana 44 front, with 3-4" lift 47" springs. (GM 73-87 front, ~6-7" total lift) For the rear, a FF 10.5 14 bolt with factory 3/4 ton springs, a shackle flip, and HD shackles. 35-36" tires with 4.56s.

Is there a kit for the coil/link setup? I can do fab work, but I'd like to keep it to a minimum if at all possible. I can weld and fab though, just don't really want to for her truck.
 

TexasRebel

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I haven't personally seen any.

Alright. If I can find one, or at least the parts separately, I'll look into it more. I have no problems fabbing certain things, but my math isn't the greatest and I don't want to build a full setup for her truck for it break and she get hurt. I just don't trust my skills that much yet. I don't know what I'd do if she got hurt, especially if it was from my work.
 

TylerZ281500

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theres the one kit listed but way overpriced, its stupid easy to build any sort of link and coil setup. ive done it with all stock modified ford radius arms, bronco lift coils and so forth. with coils a panhard is a must and make sure its braced wellbut as stated crossover isnt required i used the inverted y i believe it was called with our setup.
 

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I have no problems fabbing certain things, but my math isn't the greatest and I don't want to build a full setup for her truck for it break and she get hurt.
There are calculators out there for setting up links and such, to make sure you get the lengths and angles right for what you want out of it.
If your math is off, the biggest issue would probably be a crap ride.

i used the inverted y i believe it was called with our setup.
I've never liked inverted Y with a solid axle. Just doesn't make sense to me for toe to change as suspension cycles. Inverted Y obviously works better with TTB. I know the Super Duty and and the 9th gen solid axle F series got inverted T, which makes a lot more sense with a solid axle. IIRC Dodge used inverted Y 94-97 and then switched to inverted T in 98.
 

TylerZ281500

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mightve been t i dont recall, we used what was there with the ford axle to keep cost down then sold it before switching to crossover. it was a coilover hp ford 44 that we used
 

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Off Road Unlimited brackets, ff14 bolt rear, a super duty D60 front axle, and 52 inch front leaf springs. That'll give you the option of using a factory 2500 4wd transfer case and a factory rear driveshaft.


http://www.offroadunlimited.com/orustore/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=18

Those kits are for 32.5" spring center axles with 47" springs, the Super Duty is 37.5", and it's got a metric lug pattern that doesn't match anything other than the Sterling 10.5 rear ends also under the Super Duty.
 

98slv

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Oh my bad, I didn't pay any attention to the spring widths. I just remembered they offered 2wd to 4wd SAS brackets.
 
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