BowtieBrody
Jesus Murphy!
I didn't see any mention of boost on your list.
Don't influence me with your squeaky belt sounding power adder. I'm stopping at a cam and a port and polish on the heads when I tear down the motor,
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I didn't see any mention of boost on your list.
How about a rear disc conversion? I bought the kit for my truck, have yet to put them on though
You forgot a cam swap
I couldn't recommend one for that unfortunately, my cam search was limited to smooth idle and ability to tune to pass CA smog.Eh, I'd prefer to just upgrade the drums, I've never really paid attention to disc rear so I don't know how labor intensive the conversion would be;
Cam will more than likely come when I rebuild the engine, I want one that will give ample power for towing and daily driving, won't murder my mileage anymore (really doesn't matter cause Big Block), and has a little bit of lump to the idle, any ideas of what would fit this bill?
Heads stay on for a cam swap. Mine is 212/218 duration, 112ICL, and a smidge over 500 lift. Can't comment on power and power curve until the tune is unfucked. I can't tell you just how AWFUL this Whipple garbage is especially sucking through a blower that isn't spun by the motor.Torque seems to swell around 3000 then falls off un an unnatural way.
I couldn't recommend one for that unfortunately, my cam search was limited to smooth idle and ability to tune to pass CA smog.
I've heard good things about 112 ICL, under 220 duration for torque.
More lift than .500 may be beneficial i think, though limited to valve clearance in how much.
I've learned these become a slippery slope real quick haha.
Leaking fuel injector turns into intake gasket, turns in to full on cam swap
While you have the heads off for the cam swap, don't forget to swap heads for aluminum. Best way to help your GVWR by cutting 300lbs off the engine
From my extensive research the read disc swap is pretty straight forward. Weight savings too.
I basically got them for more reliable braking and ease of pad swap