93 Chevy K1500

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volunteerff21

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Battery is all good, ignition switch has normal play in it for the miles, turns out the clutch safety switch is the problem.

Pedal fully depressed (hitting the floor)


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How far the switch will depress.

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I'm guessing that the switch isn't supposed to fully be depressed to work. I can't get it fully depress with the clutch pedal. If I my whole body weight into it, to where the pedal is hyperextended and my leg is shaking, it will be about 1/8" out.

I'm guessing the contacts in my switch are just worn out. Easy enough to replace.
 

volunteerff21

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Changed out the clutch safety switch and drivers side headlight connector (I'd been having to jiggle it to make the lights come on in the morning).

Went to change out the u-joints in the front shaft. After some heating and beating got the old ones out, and for the life of me can't find replacement ones. Tried 3 different parts stores locally on top of ordering what I thought were the right ones from Rockauto. I spent two hours at Advanced Auto going through each u-joint on their shelf and no luck. I can't imagine it's a dealer only part but it's starting to look that way.
 

volunteerff21

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Wow......

Ok update time. First off. U-Joints!! Man what a pain!! I guess I'm the only one who has ever needed to replace front u-joints in one of these. Because no-one stocks them. And I mean no-one!! Not even the dealer. After trips to several local parts stores, 2 dealers, and a driveshaft specialty shop, finally got it done.

We ended up using a Moog 692 as a base because the axis lengths were correct. I needed the driveshaft side about 1/4" shorter than the other. However it comes with 1 1/8" bearing caps. No bueno. So we robbed the correct 1 1/16" bearing caps off another joint (234 I believe). Then, because for whatever reason mine has outer retaining rings, we had to rob those of yet ANOTHER joint. Essentially we had to combine 3 joints to make the one I need. Go to put it all together, transfer case side goes together smooth, fits perfect. I'm happy. Axle side goes into the shaft just fine, but come to find out that the saddle clamps are for 1 1/8" bearings. Ahhhhh!!! Thankfully I had a set of joints with 1 1/8" caps that I had previously ordered to find out they were incorrect. So not only did we have to basically "make" u-joints for it, they are two different joints. Unreal.


Now!! After all that, I had been driving it for about three days now. Today coming back from lunch the tach starts jumping around and it starts bucking reallllyyyy bad, almost stalls itself out. Pull it over and let it sit for a few minutes while I calm down. Fire it back up (after some cranking) and limp it home. Did the same thing again on the rest of my 2 mile drive home, but not as bad.

Pull it into the garage and tear it all apart, thinking the coil or something wasn't making a good connection. Nope, all good there, hmmmm. Pull the dizzy cap and notice the insulation on the pickup coil wires is flaking off. Crap, time for a new dizzy. And with a two week old cap, rotor, and ICM. Oh well, spares I guess.

And found out the water pump is leaking, terrific. The work never stops. Back to driving the GF's car for a week while the parts ship.....
 

ChristGilley

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I know it's been a PITA but it makes me happy you rescued this truck. I have a soft spot for RCLBs and all the "character" this one has built up reminds me of my old 81. Hope you get it all sorted out man, I love this truck
 

volunteerff21

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I'm torn between parting it out or just trying to sell it whole. Problem is the wheels/tires are the only thing valuable lol.

Would anyone be interested in anything besides the wheels and tires if I do decide to part it out??
 
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