88GMCtruck's 98 Silverado Towpig Build: "Black Fox"

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88GMCtruck

I'm all 8-Luggy!
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Auburn, Wa: From Covington, Wa: Albion, Wa: Pullma
I've always read a rough idle was just a normal thing on a Vortec Big Block.
Absolutely incredible work on everything once again, love the Cold Air box.

If you ever decide to get rid of this truck, let me know, I've got a soul, and some organs I'd be willing to part with to get a hold of this truck :Big Laugh:
Yeah, so I've heard, but it just seems worse to me. I have 3 friends with 454 vortec trucks (96 K3500 NV4500, 97 K2500 NV4500, and a 98 K2500 4L80E) and none of them shake as badly as mine does, and I have the most work put into mine maintenance wise.

And I will keep the soul and organs in mind :lol:
 

95C1500

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Hey, I've already offered my left nut for this truck. Back off :lol:
 

Curt

Sometimes when I close my eyes, I can't see.
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A gentleman never kisses and tells.... :lol:

Thanks though, and yes, 10.8 MPG. If you think about it, that isn't bad for a 1-ton crew dually that is supercharged, with 4.10 gears and 33" tires doing 70-80 up 2 mountain passes and back......
Meanwhile, I'm getting 7-8 MPG with the completely stock engine in my '96 K1500 Suburban :bawl:. City driving is a b*tch.

Hey, I've already offered my left nut for this truck. Back off :lol:
How about the right nut? :rofl:
 

95C1500

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Meanwhile, I'm getting 7-8 MPG with the completely stock engine in my '96 K1500 Suburban :bawl:. City driving is a b*tch.


How about the right nut? :rofl:
Lefty is worth more :naughty:
 

skylark

I'm Awesome
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Grants Pass, OR
I've always read a rough idle was just a normal thing on a Vortec Big Block.
Absolutely incredible work on everything once again, love the Cold Air box.

If you ever decide to get rid of this truck, let me know, I've got a soul, and some organs I'd be willing to part with to get a hold of this truck :Big Laugh:

Hey, I've already offered my left nut for this truck. Back off :lol:
Both of you are screwed. I live closer. I also have the tools, skills and I've already threatened to "creatively aquire" his truck!
 

95C1500

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Both of you are screwed. I live closer. I also have the tools, skills and I've already threatened to "creatively aquire" his truck!
Well you're supposed to hire me to weedeat for you. I'll help you. I'll distract Dave, you work your magic with the truck
 

thz71

Stock SUCKS!
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My work is never done......

So, I've been chasing down a rough idle in this truck since I bought it. Not quite a miss but it isn't as smooth at idle as it could (should in my opinion) be. I've had a oil leak at the pan for awhile, and it recently started dripping so I decided to replace it and the timing chain while I was in there.

Out goes a few things.
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Once you get here, you have to drop the front diff. Let's just let it be known that a few curse words were said during it's removal and re-install.
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Once it's gone you can have a peek inside.
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The timing set.
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Here is where the second cursing during this project came about. I ordered the GM Performance Parts 502 timing set - the same one I used on the 88, as it's designed for the aluminum timing cover in a gen 6 block. Well, it doesn't work out so well. The Vortec truck has a reluctor ring that fits over the crank gear, which causes it to be thinner. I knew this, but didn't take into account. So a bit of research and I picked up a Cloyes timing set locally for 2x the cost of the GMPP version. To make things worse, Cloyes makes the GMPP version and the only thing different is the thickness of the crank gear.

In order, Stock, GMPP 502 set, Cloyes Vortec 454 Set. The ear pictures show the difference in thicknesses.
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Got all that back together, but while I had the radiator out I cleaned it. You'd be surprised how much junk gets stuck in these. Once it was back in I flushed and re-filled with coolant.
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Since I was in the mode of chasing the rough idle and giving it a tune-up, I decided to eliminate the plastic shafted distributor with a drop in MSD unit. Not only is it pretty, it is all billet and has a much higher quality cap than the OE stuff.
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So, once it was all together I got the timing set within .8 degrees of 0 (tolerance is +/- 2 degrees), did a CASE relearn and still have a rough idle. Not sure where else to look at this point, I've gone through 95% of this thing.......
I have to do this same job on my 8.1 asap. Does the rad have to come out? Any special tools I need to get besides a harmonic balancer puller?
 
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