2000 K3500 4x4 CC DRW

[cool_as_crap]

Im at this point now, $20 to whoever can come over and drop the diff for me

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[cool_as_crap]

Last bolt..
This is bull crap!

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[cool_as_crap]

That sucked, but I got the front diff out.
I'm now considering 2wd conversion

 

[Christian Steffen]

Hopefully engine builders in my area will know enough about what will and wont pass smog.
Budget will depend on how long I wait to do it. I get a bonus every year in March, but idk If i'd want to wait that long. I guess it depends in rebuild cost, no idea how much that is.

Well it really depends on what route you take with it, and what needs to be replaced. I'm not sure what having a builder do the assembly will add to the price, but I would think that for a normal overhaul with the heads freshened up and a new cam it'd be < $2000. But it has been awhile since I've done a rebuild, and local labor rates could be different.

 

[83GMCK2500]

Just read through your latest posts, sorry to hear about the loss of oil pressure. I read where you replaced the pressure switch...did you replace the pressure sensor? Or hook a mechanical gauge up? It's the ******* behind the valley at the rear of the block between the distributor and the driver's side head (roughly). You will need the correct socket for it, it's that close to the block. I tried grinding down a wrench of the correct size to pull mine and that was a no go, has to be an oil pressure sensor socket. A couple years ago I noticed a loss in pressure myself, around 15 psi, I was down to mid 40s from 60. (I know, still way more than you're reading.) After I replaced the sensor I read cold 70 psi or better and hot 60+ going down the road.

 

[cool_as_crap]

Well it really depends on what route you take with it, and what needs to be replaced. I'm not sure what having a builder do the assembly will add to the price, but I would think that for a normal overhaul with the heads freshened up and a new cam it'd be < $2000. But it has been awhile since I've done a rebuild, and local labor rates could be different.

$2k isn't bad, I still wouldn't be in to the truck cost wise as much as it's KBB, which is cool. I'll just start calling around to shops in the area to figure out what i need and cost, when the time comes.

Just read through your latest posts, sorry to hear about the loss of oil pressure. I read where you replaced the pressure switch...did you replace the pressure sensor? Or hook a mechanical gauge up? It's the ******* behind the valley at the rear of the block between the distributor and the driver's side head (roughly). You will need the correct socket for it, it's that close to the block. I tried grinding down a wrench of the correct size to pull mine and that was a no go, has to be an oil pressure sensor socket. A couple years ago I noticed a loss in pressure myself, around 15 psi, I was down to mid 40s from 60. (I know, still way more than you're reading.) After I replaced the sensor I read cold 70 psi or better and hot 60+ going down the road.

Yeah it's a pain to get to for sure. I have the special socket, I got a new sensor on but had 3 prongs instead of 1. I have a new correct on ready to put on once I put everything else back together.
Though after the oil analysis came back, it appears the gauge was displaying accurately

 

[Christian Steffen]

$2k isn't bad, I still wouldn't be in to the truck cost wise as much as it's KBB, which is cool. I'll just start calling around to shops in the area to figure out what i need and cost, when the time comes.

I'd definitely call around sooner rather than later just to get an idea of what they charge for the labor. Is there any reason you don't want to do the rebuild yourself? Just curious

 

[cool_as_crap]

I'd definitely call around sooner rather than later just to get an idea of what they charge for the labor. Is there any reason you don't want to do the rebuild yourself? Just curious

I've considered rebuilding it myself but I've never rebuilt anything before, I don't know the fine details of what needs to be clearance or machined and why.
I'm not sure this is the truck I want to learn on and risk messing up.

But who knows, I may finish pulling the engine and feel confident enough to take it on myself.

 

[Christian Steffen]

I've considered rebuilding it myself but I've never rebuilt anything before, I don't know the fine details of what needs to be clearance or machined and why.
I'm not sure this is the truck I want to learn on and risk messing up.

But who knows, I may finish pulling the engine and feel confident enough to take it on myself.

Well there's only one way to learn haha. I hear ya though.

If you know anyone that has built any old gm motor (big block preferably) they would be able to walk you through this. The machine shop you use will likely be able to help a lot, and probably be able to tell you if the crank is reusable, and help with the bearing selection and whatnot. Don't be intimidated by anything with the EFI/computer (I was before really getting to know mine), its a pretty simple system.

Otherwise the rebuild just consists of taking things apart in a neat manner, labeling everything and taking lots of pictures will help.

Have the block either honed or bored. If you bore it you'll need different pistons, so that'll be up to you to decide if you want new pistons or not. It is also possible that the block will require boring (the machine shop should be able to tell you if it does or not), if so you'll have to get new pistons.

Then have the block cleaned, new cam bearings installed, new freeze plugs installed, have the heads checked for any cracks, new valve seats and valve stem seals (valve job?), new springs to match the new cam you're going to get (I'm maintaining that this is a must), then throw it all back together with the correct torque specs.

I'm sure there are parts of the process that I'm leaving out, but hopefully this gives you something to think about. Do some internet research into rebuilding 454's, there should be some decent write-ups out there.

 

[deejaaa]

tuned in to see the outcome. good luck.