2000 K3500 4x4 CC DRW

[cool_as_crap]

After cleaning the lower intake manifold the four coolant passages are corroded really bad.
From my searches it looks like some people us jb weld or gasket maker but I don't think this will hold for mine.
I'd order a new one if they weren't discontinued

I'm going to bring it to a machine shop today for a quote to have it re-surfaced.

 

[cool_as_crap]

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[cool_as_crap]

Though the more I research the more I think it will be ok as is

 

[Mangonesailor]

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If you can at least get that surface clean, then that'd be a good start. Maybe a light hit of 220 on a sanding block just in case there are higher peaks so the surface is a little more even.

Even I would be hunting for a new manifold in a junkyard if mine came out like that. A machine shop should make quick work of it though.

 

[cool_as_crap]

If you can at least get that surface clean, then that'd be a good start. Maybe a light hit of 220 on a sanding block just in case there are higher peaks so the surface is a little more even.

Even I would be hunting for a new manifold in a junkyard if mine came out like that. A machine shop should make quick work of it though.

I took it to a machine shop and the dude checked clearance and said it wasn't too bad and he would just run it as is.
That was good enough for me so I put it on and it's curing now.
I got it on prefect on 1 try, I was pretty excited

 

[Mangonesailor]

I took it to a machine shop and the dude checked clearance and said it wasn't too bad and he would just run it as is.
That was good enough for me so I put it on and it's curing now.
I got it on prefect on 1 try, I was pretty excited

Then i reckon youre good to go.

 

[cool_as_crap]

Then i reckon youre good to go.

Thanks for the advise in this thread and my other one on FSC.

The seller on ebay replied that they haven't separated the intake yet for some reason so no pics.
I think I'll keep an eye out for a spare manifold at the local yards in case something happens to mine.

 

[cool_as_crap]

I finally got everything back in and it runs great! No more warm start and no apparent leaking radiator fluid.

I initially had everything back together a couple days ago and started, but had a flood a gas coming out of the new FPR I put in.
The one I received from five0motorsports didn't fit right when I installed it so I used the horse collar it came with instead of the ring clip.
I had to take the fuel rail back off and, in the process of trying to wrestle the FPR in and use the ring clip, I sent the ring clip flying off in to the distance when my ring pliers let go while under tension
(I think I scared some neighbors with profanities)

I couldn't find a replacement so I had to buy a whole new FPR with included ring clip.
The new FPR fit perfectly and looked more like the one I pulled off, though with a metal spacer ring instead of plastic.
Here's a pic of the FPR that came out (right) and the one from fiveomotorsports (left).

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Note the plastic spacer ring has a lip that comes out toward the edge that the original did not have. I think this was stopping the FPR from seating completely.
I'm not sure I did something wrong or it's the wrong part.

 

[Mangonesailor]

I've yet to see that spacer ring on an FPR. Not the OEM one, the two delphis, or the ACDelco that I just put in.

 

[cool_as_crap]

As I'm finally getting the truck ready for towing/hauling, I've ran across an interesting difference of opinion about towing in overdrive that I had not considered before.
With my old truck stick shift, I'm used to shifting as needed.
However I've read that it is not recommended to tow in OD.

Does anyone have any input on this debate?
I plan to install a tranny temp gauge before I haul anything, but are there any factors other than heat to be concerned about?