1994 C2500 ...<insert something clever here>

[96k1500]

Mine has always been on the drivers side under the oil cooler line

Sent from somewhere in MN

Oh yea bottom hose isnt on the drivers side on our trucks is it, yea its the bottom corner on drivers side under the trans cooler lines

 

[1997chevydriver]

Oh yea bottom hose isnt on the drivers side on our trucks is it, yea its the bottom corner on drivers side under the trans cooler lines

nope bottom hose is on passenger side, same with Trans lines

Sent from somewhere in MN

 

[Darkrider]

make up your mind you two lol

 

[ridiqls]

Anyone familiar with paint? I'm looking to repaint the truck to gloss black and given that it's a 20 year old truck and cost about $2k I'm not going to spend even $1000 on the paint. I looked into the "$50 paint job" using rustoleum and rolling it and also the rattle can stuff but I think MAACO has the "presidential" which is basically the job to spray the paint down. I can't count on them to prep it or anything decent for that price so I will plan on prepping the car myself. I dont know much about prep but I know i'd probably take a sander and 600 grit or something (ill do more exact research here) and sand the entire car down. Probably use a little bondo to fix the small dent near the passenger rear wheel well but as far as the body condition, it looks to be in okay shape. It's clearly been painted white in a few places, the lift gate has overspray, the driver's side fender's white doesn't match the rest of the body when you look at night shots. Although during the day it's fine. The hood I guess someone got lazy and applied only 1 coat cause you can see the red through it, and the underside of the hood is originally red.

I was going to do the $50 paint job and roll it on but at $279 I might just do the prep work and pay MAACO to just spray it down. basically I'm looking at it like I'm "renting" their spray equipment, their spray booth and a person who has some experience spraying on a daily basis to do that part of the job. The prep I can take my time and remove everything I don't want paint on, tape up everything and account for overspray, tip the painter and basically make it foolproof so all they have to do is spray it right.


Anyone who knows about paint, what's your opinion especially on my truck? My eye for this is probably not very accurate although I'm learning about it. Spent the last 3 days and last 12 hours straight reading about paintjobs haha To me it looks okay I dont think there would be any body work and I just plan on sanding using a cheap power sander device and scuffing up the old layer of paint for better adhesion. And maybe patching the dent up but other than that, that's all I can think of.

The other thing is how to get the area between the cab and the bed, that's a thinker.

 

[96k1500]

I wouldnt go to maaco cause they will not do the door jams or between the bed and cab or anything, i would either settle for rattle can or save up and have it done right, also between the bed and cab isnt that difficult you just unbolt the bed and slide it back a few feet

 

[96k1500]

And did you read thru this?
http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?9609-So-you-wanna-paint-that-truck-of-yours-Material-list

 

[ridiqls]

And did you read thru this?
http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?9609-So-you-wanna-paint-that-truck-of-yours-Material-list

Oh good read. yeah I'm looking at all my options. DIY, maaco, prep myself and give it maaco, earl scheib, plasti dip. I've been following dipyourcar.com on facebook and their forum and I really like some of the dipped cars, people are getting really creative. Also looking into DIY vinyl wrap but I bet that's a ***** to do on your own.

 

[BHBurban]

Not sure if you got your seat dilemma solved. (due to all the other "advice" given) In case you havent, try taking the sliding mechanisms of of the seats you are installing, and mount them to the original truck riser/slider mechanism. info for converting from a bench to bucket is here: http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?796-88-98-Bucket-seat-alternatives
As for the removing the jack hold down, it goes through the floor pan, so most likely its rusty. a little heat from the bottom will free it up. and you can use an inverted torx socket to remove it. (look at the end of the stud)

 

[ridiqls]

Not sure if you got your seat dilemma solved. (due to all the other "advice" given) In case you havent, try taking the sliding mechanisms of of the seats you are installing, and mount them to the original truck riser/slider mechanism. info for converting from a bench to bucket is here: http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?796-88-98-Bucket-seat-alternatives
As for the removing the jack hold down, it goes through the floor pan, so most likely its rusty. a little heat from the bottom will free it up. and you can use an inverted torx socket to remove it. (look at the end of the stud)

Thanks dude. I actually tried that and tried mounting the seat mount on top of the stock seat risers but it was like a 10 inch rise haha I was hitting my head on the headliner. The stock risers are 7" on their own so it's a little much. There's a local muffler shop that does fabrication and I already have a design to raise it 3-3.5" and bolt it to a large metal plate so hopefully he can help me out at a reasonable price.


UPDATE:

Got my tires today. Never thought I'd be so happy to get a call that tires are in. Also the first time I drove the car after the body lift installation and so far the steering extension, the tranny shift rod and what not seems to be working okay. These are falken 275/60r20s, gotta love that nice shiny look to them. But one of the lugs on the front driver's side was seized cause someone cross threaded them, probably used an impact wrench to install the lugs...so they had to break the stud off. Now i'm looking at $60 repair to remove that stud and replace it. Anyone know how hard that is to do myself? I can probably find a similar write up or something on the internet for that. Hopefully. Need to get an alignment also the car's steering wheel is off center.

Since these are 33s they have enough clearance but they do touch the frame or whatever it is when they are fully turned to each side (picture below).

Also given that the previous owner was running 29"ers, the 33s are noticeably slower and heavier. Lots more gas to get the truck to go. In terms of speed and acceleration the 29s were nice but they looked like crap. Next up are the seats.


Pictures:

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Bumper's crooked I know. I just seriously do not want to untighten the bolts and realign it cause it took me forever to do that and I realized I used the wrong set of bolts. The bolts were hiding behind the wheels. I'll redo the bumper and make it straight when I paint or if I end up doing headlight conversions.

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Going to plasti dip the wheels soon. Will update with pictures when i do. that's probably next..

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I might polish the lip and plasti dip the inside spokes black or gunmetal or something dark. Either that OR just plastidip it all black.

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Driver's side wheel fully turned to the left. you can see the back is touching

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Another view

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Crappy view but whatever

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Gotta do the coolant flush and oil change tmw and change the fuel filter.

Comparison:

before

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after

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[95C1500]

Looks much better! The alignment will fix the whole steering wheel being crooked. Might want to look at some spacers to get rid of the rubbing. The stud is something my dad and I have done 3 times on our 04 hoe. It's menial but it isn't that bad.