Yellow Spark No Start

[Frank Enstein]

I will check that out. Thanks!

 

[Frank Enstein]

How often cap and rotor? Installed at 170K and failed at 280K?

Nope! Installed @ 122000 failed @ 280000!

 

[Frank Enstein]

It Runs!

But I don't know what fixed it. Pulled codes.

"Failed" fuel pump relay. I rewired it and didn't tell the computer. Nope!

Coolant temp sensor to low. I unplugged the CTS to maybe get it to start. Nope!

Electronic Spark Control open or shorted. Ah Ha! So I cleaned every connection I could find with contact cleaner.

While chasing connectors to clean I found some gooey, prehistoric vacuum lines going to the cruise control and the charcoal cannister and replaced them with silicone hose from Summit (I try to stock up on shop supplies in the spring).

It starts right up and runs smooth!
So far...
So Momma's van is under the "Cone of Shame" (Summit pop up canopy) with a battery charger on for the night and we'll see what happens in the morning.

Thanks for the help gang! I'll likely post that it won't start in the a.m.

Never let a vehicle know you trust it. You'll drive over the crankshaft the next day.

 

[Schurkey]

Is silicone hose degraded by gasoline?

I have some on my K1500 (about three inches, on the brake booster tube) and so far, so good. But I figure there's not much fuel vapor on that vacuum hose, should be fresh air from the booster.

 

[Frank Enstein]

You don't want to use it for fuel hose but it is gasoline resistant. It handles 600F so it's not likely to bake itself to death in the engine compartment anytime soon I hope!

Bright colored vacuum hose was all the rage with the Sport Impact people about 15 years ago. I chose black for stealth!

 

[Frank Enstein]

Annnd it didn't start this morning. Changed the CTS and it lit right up.

We'll if Momma bear makes it back from kid pickup.

 

[Frank Enstein]

It stalled once on the pickup run but restarted easily. It may be a bad load of fuel like Shurkey said. More time to play tomorrow.

 

[Frank Enstein]

And it didn't start today either. When it DOES bother to start it runs smooth and strong.

HEI Spark tester shows a lovely hot, purple/pink snapping spark from the coil wire to ground.

Pulling plugs and wires to check them (not fun AT ALL on that thing).

New battery tomorrow (needed one anyway) new fuel filters today (once a year before winter as per usual).

Fuel pressure 14 psi. Clean fuel. No water in the sample I took. Cleaned every connector plug with contact cleaner.

Won't even kick on starting fluid now. Doghouse off again tomorrow. Gonna put it on with Velcro this time.

At this point I figure it's either a broken wire or it needs an exorcism!


Oh yeah, Since Frank is the only vehicle running he chose yesterday to break the muffler loose from the inlet pipe.

So Frank is already pretty slow, now he sounds like my I.Q. is under 80 (Loud equals Fast!).

Sounds like glasspacks barking @ 3000 rpm. UGH!

And my favorite muffler is on intergalactic back-order! I'll have to replace it but I hate doing a job twice!

Thanks for listening.

Rant (whining) button OFF

 

[Schurkey]

And it didn't start today either. When it DOES bother to start it runs smooth and strong.

HEI Spark tester shows a lovely hot, purple/pink snapping spark from the coil wire to ground.

Even when it won't start? How about at the plug end of the plug wires? (Does the spark get in and out of the distributor, and down each of the plug wires?)

Timing light shows proper initial timing when cranked? How about when clamped around the other seven plug wires? If the timing light doesn't flash, the coil maybe isn't building sufficient voltage (fouled plugs, grounded cap/rotor, failed plug wires) If the timing is correct--or at least really close--you can rule out timing chain.

I've seen partially-failed ignition modules; lack of dwell variation with RPM, failure when hot, etc. I can't think of any time I've seen them go intermittent when still "cold". That's more of a pickup-coil thing. I had an intermittent pickup coil on a TBI 5.7L; but the magnet was obviously broken on the shaft of the distributor, and the distributor-to-coil wire harness wasn't in great condition (someone had punctured the insulation to connect test equipment.)

Pulling plugs and wires to check them (not fun AT ALL on that thing).

Yeah.

New battery tomorrow (needed one anyway) new fuel filters today (once a year before winter as per usual).

Fuel pressure 14 psi. Clean fuel. No water in the sample I took. Cleaned every connector plug with contact cleaner.

Contact cleaner dissolves foreign matter. Doesn't do too much for corrosion. Got a small brush to mechanically scrub the contact pins/sockets?

Really, I wouldn't expect too much trouble from modern sealed connectors. Not saying it can't happen, just that I don't see failed connectors often.

Won't even kick on starting fluid now. Doghouse off again tomorrow. Gonna put it on with Velcro this time.

I suspect fouled plugs. You have spark, but not across the plug gap. Adding fuel doesn't help (unless it's already too rich for whatever reason.) Scan tool, look at MAP, TPS, CTS when engine won't start. Any of them can cause plug-fouling over-rich mixture if the sensor output is goofy; the TPS can also cause no injector spray if it's reporting WFO during cranking.

EGR sticking open? Might cause a no-start, but the engine would run like crap off-idle when you say it runs good.

At this point I figure it's either a broken wire or it needs an exorcism!

Before you call the Preist, I'd try harsh language. Carlin's "Seven Words" is a good start, but I favor something original.

Seems to work for me.

intergalactic back-order

Love it. (The phrase, not the situation.) I blame the Chinese biological warfare; coupled to corrupt politicians handing out too much "assistance" and "recovery" money.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Even when it won't start? How about at the plug end of the plug wires? (Does the spark get in and out of the distributor, and down each of the plug wires?)

Timing light shows proper initial timing when cranked? How about when clamped around the other seven plug wires? If the timing light doesn't flash, the coil maybe isn't building sufficient voltage (fouled plugs, grounded cap/rotor, failed plug wires) If the timing is correct--or at least really close--you can rule out timing chain.

I've seen partially-failed ignition modules; lack of dwell variation with RPM, failure when hot, etc. I can't think of any time I've seen them go intermittent when still "cold". That's more of a pickup-coil thing. I had an intermittent pickup coil on a TBI 5.7L; but the magnet was obviously broken on the shaft of the distributor, and the distributor-to-coil wire harness wasn't in great condition (someone had punctured the insulation to connect test equipment.)


Yeah.

Contact cleaner dissolves foreign matter. Doesn't do too much for corrosion. Got a small brush to mechanically scrub the contact pins/sockets?

Really, I wouldn't expect too much trouble from modern sealed connectors. Not saying it can't happen, just that I don't see failed connectors often.


I suspect fouled plugs. You have spark, but not across the plug gap. Adding fuel doesn't help (unless it's already too rich for whatever reason.) Scan tool, look at MAP, TPS, CTS when engine won't start. Any of them can cause plug-fouling over-rich mixture if the sensor output is goofy; the TPS can also cause no injector spray if it's reporting WFO during cranking.

EGR sticking open? Might cause a no-start, but the engine would run like crap off-idle when you say it runs good.


Before you call the Preist, I'd try harsh language. Carlin's "Seven Words" is a good start, but I favor something original.

Seems to work for me.


Love it. (The phrase, not the situation.) I blame the Chinese biological warfare; coupled to corrupt politicians handing out too much "assistance" and "recovery" money.

I prefer 13 and 17 letter words ending in er. I generally call out loose morals and questionable parentage.

I actually ran out of foul language yesterday. I'll pick up a box when I'm @ Summit.