WHICH WHEELS SHOULD I GO WITH

[illinoisboy]

Is the one with the 16's the most recent? i ask because it looks like it has the black corners.
I know i voted for the 20's but it's yours so whatever you like the best.

 

[withoutfear33]

I think your truck looks much better with the 16's on it, the 20's seem out of place. As for gears I have never heard of 5.56 gears, but that would be some low gears, 5.13's would be good for offroad, and little highway driving. If you do alot of driving and highway running then 4.88's may be a better bet. Also might want to consider ditching the 10 bolt rear end for a 9.5" 14 bolt if you are going to be beating on the truck. With proper gearing you shouldnt see a loss in mileage, maybe even a little gain.

i meant to say 4.56 gears bc ill do alot of highway driving but if you say 4.88 ill trust your opinion over mine (new to chevy) i have a f250 with the 7.3 in it on 14in of coil spring lift and 20s / 40s and i love everything about the truck but when it comes to a gasser and a chevy im all new to this but havnt had any problems yet.. i would like for my chevy to set as close to my f250 as possible with the IFS but i just dont know how long it will last, ive done my research on here and other forums and it just seems like people are having to many problems with a 6in suspension, 3in body on 37-38s and IFS if they are driven daily..

 

[Swims350]

what problems? only thing I know of is wearing out the unit bearings, mostly because they use wide wheels, and wide wheels would kill them with 35's or 33's I'd bet. Then when you get into larger tires they get heavier too. So it all comes into play, but most of the time guys go 6 or 6.5 and full crank, or 6 inch and do the same, that tears up all the front end stuff if the angles get bad. You can do that on a stock 4x4 crank too high and wear it all out.

The main thing is ppl want to get higher, not many companies now have the ifs lifts bigger then 6.5 and they aint cheap, it comes down to being cheaper to solid axle swap. Plus you can go higher. The solid axle gets ya about 3-4 inches itself, add lift springs and you can go way up there.

 

[withoutfear33]

what problems? only thing I know of is wearing out the unit bearings, mostly because they use wide wheels, and wide wheels would kill them with 35's or 33's I'd bet. Then when you get into larger tires they get heavier too. So it all comes into play, but most of the time guys go 6 or 6.5 and full crank, or 6 inch and do the same, that tears up all the front end stuff if the angles get bad. You can do that on a stock 4x4 crank too high and wear it all out.

The main thing is ppl want to get higher, not many companies now have the ifs lifts bigger then 6.5 and they aint cheap, it comes down to being cheaper to solid axle swap. Plus you can go higher. The solid axle gets ya about 3-4 inches itself, add lift springs and you can go way up there.

well i already have a 6in fabtech so going SAS is out of the question right now even though i would love to lol.. but i want to add a 3in body and 38s but i keep hearing stay away from anything bigger then a 37... but as for problems i have heard people say they end up with tranny problems, blown rear ends, trans cases, bearings, cv joints, ect ect.. now i know with any lifted truck your going to have stress.. i just rebuilt the tranny, trans case and front end on my truck and would like it to last as long as possible.. but my main concern is breaking and power as i will be towing with it a little as well, i dont wanna tow a trailer and now be able to stop it or over heat the tranny bc its struggling to pull the trailer and the truck its self..

basically if i go with a 3in body on top of my 6in fabtech and a set of 37s at the smallest will my truck be okay if i re gear at least to a 4.88 and do some throttle body mods to make up for power loss?

 

[Swims350]

them gears are gonna help save on the trans and power loss alot. IMo if I was gonna tow do 5.13's and forget it.

I would bet most ppl's trans trouble are due to high miles or something already then they lift, or the fact the don't regear. axles for sure have weaknesses and such and that's why most say go to a 14 bolt and be done.

The front is weak when it's cranked up high as mentioned before putting bad angles on things, but wide wheels, or just the added weight hurts the wheel bearings on the ifs setups.

As for brakes not sure, maybe abig brake kit, trans, just add in another cooler or the biggest gvw ratting you can get in cobination with the rad. cooler for it.

 

[withoutfear33]

them gears are gonna help save on the trans and power loss alot. IMo if I was gonna tow do 5.13's and forget it.

I would bet most ppl's trans trouble are due to high miles or something already then they lift, or the fact the don't regear. axles for sure have weaknesses and such and that's why most say go to a 14 bolt and be done.

The front is weak when it's cranked up high as mentioned before putting bad angles on things, but wide wheels, or just the added weight hurts the wheel bearings on the ifs setups.

As for brakes not sure, maybe abig brake kit, trans, just add in another cooler or the biggest gvw ratting you can get in cobination with the rad. cooler for it.

well ill give it a try, i went ahead and ordered a summit 3in body lift since ive read they are the same as a PA, and i already have a massive transmission cooler on this truck but its a cooler only it doesnt run through the radiator anymore (should it be running through both as mentioned above?) Ill most likely go with a 4.88 gear for right now and see how it feels BUT what do i need for the front, not 100% sure on how this works since it isnt a stright axel like my f250 i re-geared.

If anyone has any wheels and tires or just tires in a 37 or 38 please lmk im in the market to buy soon..

 

[Swims350]

I would run them thru both extra cooling that way. I also hear the stacked plate style coolers are alot better then the tube and fin ones.

As for the front you can buy gears for it and re gear it. The whole thing comes out and you have to split the case open to regear.