What to replace?

[Dixietruck]

I’ve got a 98 k1500 with 125xxx miles with a rcx 2.5 lift turned down almost as a leveling kit. I am at a point where I trying to button up everything on the truck and make it as reliable as possible. I am working on a laundry list of parts to replace as preventative and some needed maintenance.
1. Brakes
2. Lower ball joint
3. Outer tie rod
4. Sway bar end links
5. Hubs and speed sensors
6. Door pins/ bushings
What other parts would y’all recommend to worry free truck.

 

[b454rat]

CV shafts? Idler n pitman arm. Those are the ones that wear the quickest it seems...whooped on my Yukon lol

 

[RPMerf]

As far as front suspension goes, I would grease everything every oil change and watch / feel / listen for play.

If you are replacing the outer tie rods, I would do the inner tie rods and adjusters at the same time. Similarly, if you are doing the Lower Ball Joint, you might want to do the upper ball joint, or even a whole upper control arm at the same time.

You might want to just do the whole front suspension / steering while you are there. It's around $700 for all AC Delco parts from Rock Auto. I'm doing this on my 97 K1500 Suburban currently. It has around 220K miles and it was getting a clunk in the passenger's side.
Upper control arms
Lower ball joints
Lower control arm bushings
Inner and outer tie rod ends with new adjusters
Idler arm and bracket
Sway bar body mounts
Shocks

I did the pitman arm a couple years back when it got some play. I should had done the idler at the same time. The sway bar end links were replaced at some point, and their bushings still look good.

The only thing that has given me trouble in the front suspension is the lower control arm bushings. The bolts rust welded themselves in the bushings. The rest has been quick and easy. I do have a harbor freight press I used to push the bushings and lower ball joint. I'm in Maryland, so we likely have more rust here than you do down there.

I did go through almost the entire braking system within the past couple years. Mainly due to lines rusting out, and issues with bleeding. I would say the next time you need to change the pads or shoes, do the rubber lines and calipers / wheel cylinders at the same time. Bleeding the ABS can suck, so do what you can to not get air in the lines.

Also, I think the door latch is failing on my Suburban. I've had a horrible rattle going over bumps for years. Not sure if this is a common failure.

 

[Dixietruck]

Because I have the rcx 2.5” lift which is basically a torsion key crank with a diff drop and extended UCA should I opt for extended sway bar links?

 

[Dixietruck]

As far as front suspension goes, I would grease everything every oil change and watch / feel / listen for play.

If you are replacing the outer tie rods, I would do the inner tie rods and adjusters at the same time. Similarly, if you are doing the Lower Ball Joint, you might want to do the upper ball joint, or even a whole upper control arm at the same time.

You might want to just do the whole front suspension / steering while you are there. It's around $700 for all AC Delco parts from Rock Auto. I'm doing this on my 97 K1500 Suburban currently. It has around 220K miles and it was getting a clunk in the passenger's side.
Upper control arms
Lower ball joints
Lower control arm bushings
Inner and outer tie rod ends with new adjusters
Idler arm and bracket
Sway bar body mounts
Shocks

I did the pitman arm a couple years back when it got some play. I should had done the idler at the same time. The sway bar end links were replaced at some point, and their bushings still look good.

The only thing that has given me trouble in the front suspension is the lower control arm bushings. The bolts rust welded themselves in the bushings. The rest has been quick and easy. I do have a harbor freight press I used to push the bushings and lower ball joint. I'm in Maryland, so we likely have more rust here than you do down there.

I did go through almost the entire braking system within the past couple years. Mainly due to lines rusting out, and issues with bleeding. I would say the next time you need to change the pads or shoes, do the rubber lines and calipers / wheel cylinders at the same time. Bleeding the ABS can suck, so do what you can to not get air in the lines.

Also, I think the door latch is failing on my Suburban. I've had a horrible rattle going over bumps for years. Not sure if this is a common failure.

So glad I’m down here in the south my truck is as rust free as anything almost 23 years old can be. It could be latch but I’ve heard of weird things happened once the door pins/bushings have worn. I should’ve listed what I have done atleast that remember.
1. Idler arm
2. Pitman arm
3. Both upper UCA’s/ ball joint
4. Shocks x4

 

[Dixietruck]

CV shafts? Idler n pitman arm. Those are the ones that wear the quickest it seems...whooped on my Yukon lol

I’ve already knocked out idler and pitman arm. I guess I should add CV shafts to the list.