The Member Truck Thread

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TylerZ281500

Yukon Ridin High
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
5,861
Reaction score
254
Location
Clinton Township, Michigan
attachment.php


That is just beautiful!!! Like a brand new blank piece of paper! Some may look at this & think that that is now gonna be a ton of work to get back together. I look at that & see nothing but possibilities!

i know i already have ideas through my head
 

sewlow

Bitchin' Stitchin'
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
12,432
Reaction score
5,807
Location
Abbotsford B.C., Canada.
First things first! I highly recommend doing this...

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Two layers of 1/8" closed cell foam over top of the deadener on the floor. 2x 1/8 will fit better than one layer of 1/4".

You must be registered for see images attach


Do the inside of the outer doorskins the same as this...

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Then 3/8" closed cell on the back wall over the sound deadener.

You must be registered for see images attach


Make sure it all gets rolled down after each step.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

2000CCSB

CrewCab Stalker
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
1,883
Reaction score
55
Location
central IL USA
How much money habe you got wrapped up in that project?? and where did you get the closed cell foam??

Is that thing super guiet?? did it bring down the exhuast sound?

CrewCab Steve
 

bluex

Mall Crawlin' ****!!!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2011
Messages
27,180
Reaction score
1,681
Location
Spartanburg, SC
attachment.php


That is just beautiful!!! Like a brand new blank piece of paper! Some may look at this & think that that is now gonna be a ton of work to get back together. I look at that & see nothing but possibilities!

According to him it wasnt to bad to tear it down. I havent been able to help him much with it due to our work schedules. He's been kinda stalled here latley waiting on the stars to align between our schedules and the weather so we can move the frame back into his garage and the cab into his building......
 

sewlow

Bitchin' Stitchin'
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
12,432
Reaction score
5,807
Location
Abbotsford B.C., Canada.
That cost me about $300.00- $350.00. Not cheap. But the results are so worth it! Only regret is that I should have done it sooner! I can have a Harley, or Semi right beside me on the freeway, & with the window down, they're loud. Roll the window up & I can have a normal conversation. Stereo sounds waay better! Doors close with a nice 'thunk'. Holds the heat longer, so the heater control gets set lower, at a lower fan speed. The truck no longer has rattles or other strange noises. The whole truck feels more solid.
65-70% of road noise come through the doors. & these trucks with their dumbass-designed inner door panels make that a pain to do. The most work outa the whole job! I also did the inside of the inner doors.
One thing I learned though, was to not cover up those rubber flaps on the inner door panels. The cab couldn't 'breathe', & it ended up actually pressurizing the cab. The fan would slow down, as the pressure built up. Made my ears feel plugged. Open the window a crack, & you get a big whoosh! Could hear the fan actually speed up!
 
Last edited:

2000CCSB

CrewCab Stalker
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
1,883
Reaction score
55
Location
central IL USA
Lol wow. I have been thinkin anout doin this to my crewcab. The doors are going to suck big time!!! oh well. Ill bet mine will be 500 for all my cab. so where did you pick up that foam?? And how did you like workin with that fat mat??

CrewCab Steve
 

sewlow

Bitchin' Stitchin'
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
12,432
Reaction score
5,807
Location
Abbotsford B.C., Canada.
Last 4 or 5 jobs, I've used the Fat Mat. I get a pretty good deal cause I buy 3 cases at a time. (6 rolls) To do a reg. cab, probably takes almost 2 rolls. Some guys put 2 or more layers on the floor, inside of the outer door skin, & on the back wall. I've heard of 4 done on the floor.
I've used most of the brands. Pretty well all the same stuff. The Fatmat's a bit different, though. Has wrinkles already in the foil part. Look at the pic with the roller. Those wrinkles provide a bit of give & take so that when stretching over raised parts it'll flatten out, or it kinda folds in over itself at the wrinkles. The flat foiled stuff wants to split over the raise parts, & creates sharp, hard wrinkles when being tucked into tight spots. Look at the pic of the back wall. Those wrinkles were because I tried to do too large of an area at once. That's Fat Mat. So it'll do the same as the other kinds if not careful. But the floor worked out better cause I was working with smaller pieces. I have a thing about wrinkles. The smoother that stuff goes down, the less trouble with the next layer of foam, underlay,& carpets or rubber mat. Wrinkles get magnified with each layer. Always roll every inch of it. That's what takes the time. My roof took 2 hours, start to finish. Finger pressure is not enough to really make it stick or to remove any trapped air. Cut into bubbles with a razor blade & roll the air to the cut.

The 1/8 & 3/8" foam I got off of ebay. This'll work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volara-Clos...984?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccfd12510
That's a pretty good deal for 8' of 1/8". That'd do your floor 2X.
They've got 3/8" too.
 

Darkrider

Dexter
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
25,185
Reaction score
237
Location
Lloydminster, SK Canada
Great info Al! I can def forsee going through the process of adding fat mat to both gmcs and the trailblazer. It will have to wait till next year though.

Sent from a 6.5 Detroit Diesel powered smartphone
 
Top