My 10 bolt was leaking into the rear brakes. I thought no big deal, just put in a new axle seal. I take it apart and somebody had ruined the original bearings and put in a "repair" bearing that rides out further towards the end of the axle than the original. These "repair" bearings have integrated seals so you have to replace the whole thing. Now the problem. I cant get the old "repair" bearing out. It is super hard and a good 1.5" wide and really tight. I get a axle bearing puller with a slide hammer and it doesnt do anything. It is so hard you cant just mangle it up with a hammer and chisel and get it out. I've tried. The only thing I can think of is to heat up the axle tube and then use the slide hammer. What a pain. Has anyone removed one of these "repair" bearings?
Removing a "repair" bearing
- Thread starter mnguy55
- Start date
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twomanymontes
car show addict
Yes, But I use the slide hammer and they come right out. Not sure why your having a hard time. Is there rust on the end of the tube holding it in place?
phule
Back in a 400 again
While your in there look at the axle shaft. On the crown vics you have to use a repair bearing if the original cut into the axle shaft so check the end of the shaft for a groove cut into it. Id you have a groove order a new shaft.
Adam
Adam
96-1500
Bluenoser
Same here, I've removed a few with my slide hammer without issue. One trick I've seen done, not on a truck but on farm machinery (a new holland haybine to be specific, if you care) is once you get the rollers beat out, apply a weld to the inside of what's left of the race, and as it cools it will shrink and pull the race in slightly. Similar end effect to heating the housing (except executed in basically the opposite fashion), except you don't have to be in a big hurry.
Like I said, I've never seen or heard of this being done to a pickup, maybe it's impractical, but it's just a thought. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. If there's someone who could explain better, please do.
