Proportioning Valve compatibility JIMMY to C1500

[ClubHuntRed]

Hi,

I have a 96 Cheyenne 1/2 ton pickup with the 4.3 V6. I want to remove the abs unit. However, I have not been able to confirm if the proportioning valve I pulled off a 91 Jimmy (not sure if S15 or not or 4wd or 2wd matters or not because I am not sure what trim it was) will work properly with my stock brake system. I have looked all over this site and have not seen any mention of part number compatibility between the Jimmy and GMC/Chevy 1/2 tons. It would appear the correct ACDelco part number for a 1/2 ton is 172-2069. Correct me if I'm wrong. It seems it is interchangeable, but like I said, I'm not sure what I pulled off the Jimmy (is it similar to 172-2069 or slightly different internally? is there any variation across Jimmy models?)

Only marking I can find off the valve is " B 35 kh 2640 ".

Thanks for your help

 

[ClubHuntRed]

If someone can, give me the number that is etched into the side of the proportioning valve on your your 88 - 94 C1500. I'm hoping it'll match the number from above.

C1500 rear brakes are slightly larger in diameter (.5") and width (1/4"), rear cylinders also larger (1 3/16 bore vs 7/8 bore).

Can't find definitive info on front brake rotor size.

 

[east302]

Comparing the part numbers on rockauto.com, a 1994 C1500 used GM part #15661374 while a 1991 S15 Jimmy used #15661378. I don't see what the comparable AC Delco part numbers were.

You might try pulling one from an 88-94 C/K instead. One thing I noticed when replacing the ABS unit on my 98 is that the combination valve varied slightly depending on whether the drums were JB5 or JB6 RPO code. I don't know if the 94 and under used two different drum sizes or not, but it's something to keep in mind if you look for a different donor vehicle.

Just curious, why were you wanting to delete the four wheel abs?


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[ClubHuntRed]

I couldn't find a c1500 where the front wasn't mangled or where the proportioning valve was already taken. I wanted to remove it because I've got to have the abs bled (air) and bad pedal. I guess i just don't like dealing with it anymore, and just wanted to simplify the brake system. One option is to have a tech bleed it (not sure what they would charge for it) and just unplug the abs, right? Maybe I'm just complicating things but isn't that part of the fun?

 

[east302]

They would bleed it with a scanner and then bleed through the calipers and cylinders. I would think no more than one hour, I had mine done yesterday for $40. Took 30 minutes.

One way to pinpoint a soft pedal is to clamp off the front hoses and back hose and test the pedal. If it's still low, then the problem isn't at the wheels or there's air in that segment--try plugging the outlets on the master cylinder to see if it's bypassing. If the pedal is good, remove the clamps one at a time to see which wheel is causing the issue. They make special clamps for this purpose. Using vice grips can damage the internal lining in the hose, but replacing the hoses on these vehicles may be worthwhile anyways if they are original.

Make sure the drums are adjusted, that can cause a soft pedal as well.






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[chillman88]

Make sure the drums are adjusted, that can cause a soft pedal as well.

^^This

I had crappy brakes for two years. When my 10 bolt crapped the bed I put a 14 bolt in. I spent extra time making sure the rears were adjusted and now it'll stop on a dime! Best brakes of any vehicle I've driven. I also have hydroboost and no abs (proportioning valve from 93 c1500) but the brake upgrades were done two years before the axle swap.

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