My Burban - 99 OBS with some stuff - alot of stuff about to go on

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Bahndrvr

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It's nice to see a Burb getting dirty - glad to see it offroad!

Thanks,

Got laid off last week and the Burban isn't doing so well right now, has a huge pulsating, thought it was the tire, drained it, dismounted it and put it back together, still ahve it. Found 2 busted ball joints so that may be it but have brake fluid leaking out the back passenger Drum, I honestly think that may be the problem, it started happening after I did the 4 wheeling and I was using brake modulation to kick the rear gov lock in, so that may be the problem. I will go ahead and get new ball joints for the front as well.

Trying to keep the burban through the layoff, wish me luck, but may have to clean all the toys out - and the Burb is a toy to me at this time to pay bills you know.

I hope it works out, and I ant to get this bodylift on SOON and get on 35's, but time will tell.
 

Sparg93

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Bahn - sorry to hear about your employment issues - my best wishes to grabbing a quality job soon.

With that rear drum, other then the brake line itself, there's only one place it could be leaking...and that part ("Wheel Cylinder) is like $35 for AC Delco. Take off your rear wheel, then the drum cover. You will see a sort of piston mounted at the top - two little pieces of steel come out of this apparatus and push on your shoes.

If that's leaking, it's an easy fix....but i believe you will have to take the pads off and all the springs. If you haven't done this before, take lots of photos or ask someone to help. It's a piece of cake if you've done it before, but learning the first time can be tricky b/c you need a few tools to help with those springs. Of course if you're going to take everything off, now is the time to put new pads on!
 

Bahndrvr

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Bahn - sorry to hear about your employment issues - my best wishes to grabbing a quality job soon.

With that rear drum, other then the brake line itself, there's only one place it could be leaking...and that part ("Wheel Cylinder) is like $35 for AC Delco. Take off your rear wheel, then the drum cover. You will see a sort of piston mounted at the top - two little pieces of steel come out of this apparatus and push on your shoes.

If that's leaking, it's an easy fix....but i believe you will have to take the pads off and all the springs. If you haven't done this before, take lots of photos or ask someone to help. It's a piece of cake if you've done it before, but learning the first time can be tricky b/c you need a few tools to help with those springs. Of course if you're going to take everything off, now is the time to put new pads on!



Thanks man, tore into the ball joints last night, and I needed uppers and lowers, I think I'm going to just do the ball-joint flip for now as I thnk Im' going to return the Bodylift while I can still get the refund for it, if I want it again later, and I end up being able to keep the Burban, I'll reorder it when I can afford it you know.

Finally got this thing running good and might have to sell it, Boy those bottom ball joints are a ******, actually so are the tops LOL.

If I keep it long enough to have to replace them again, SAS for sure now:)

i got the wheel cyllinder as well, will be tearing into it tomorrow more than likely:)

Thanks man.
 

Sparg93

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Thanks man, tore into the ball joints last night, and I needed uppers and lowers, I think I'm going to just do the ball-joint flip for now

Welcome!!

What is a "ball joint flip"?
 

Darkrider

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Welcome!!

What is a "ball joint flip"?

A bad idea on trucks the size of our gmt400s. Basically instead of mounting the ball joint through the A arm as normal the ball joint is bolted on the bottom side essentially eliminating one major safety feature of the factory design...if the bolts/rivits fail on the stock setup the a arm will at least stop the wheel and spindle assembly from flopping over and risking a crash...in a "flipped" set up...if the bolts fail...wheel/spindle assembly can flop over and will prob cause a major accident due to loss of control.

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Sparg93

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A bad idea on trucks the size of our gmt400s. Basically instead of mounting the ball joint through the A arm as normal the ball joint is bolted on the bottom side essentially eliminating one major safety feature of the factory design...if the bolts/rivits fail on the stock setup the a arm will at least stop the wheel and spindle assembly from flopping over and risking a crash...in a "flipped" set up...if the bolts fail...wheel/spindle assembly can flop over and will prob cause a major accident due to loss of control.

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I was worried the OP was literally talking about flipping those ball joints. IMHO, I wouldn't flip them...I'm having a hard time visualizing this b/c it seems kind of nuts to me... (no disrespect).

Personally, there are MUCH safer ways to lift a truck to clear big tires...i'd put those Moog's in the way their supposed to go. If a balljoint blows out from a catastrophic failure, you risk flipping your rig.
 

Bahndrvr

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Alright guys ill put them in normal and do a turn on the Torsten bars:)

As of right now looks like the Burban is staying as well trying to keep the body lift too at this point and hopefully this thing will keep getting updates, haven't finished installing balljoint a yet, going to get the new ones pressed in Saturday as the tool I loaned isn't working and I want to start driving this beast to my construction gig I'm working right now.
 

Bahndrvr

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Well, got the passenger side ball joints done, took me a while due to the bottom and using the Autozone press, have the Advanced auto kit now and it's 100% better than the autozone kit, needed to drive it so replaced the rear passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes.

Cranked up the torsion bars by 2 full turns - didn't see much different, going to go another 1 1/2 turns and call it good I belive and leave it there. However, when doing the test drive had NO Brake pressure, after hearing it I thought it was messed up, turns out my front passenger side hard line broke...

going to get a flare tool and do a repair on it hopefully tomorrow night, I need to get this sucker driving. I will tear into the other ball joints but not till after the family I have comign to visit rolls through around 6 November. I'm going to go ahead and try to advertise my 20's and Coopers locally for trade as I haven't pushed it, but really wants some 35's to get the alignmetn and then I'll do the body lift. Waiting to replace all the hard brake lines till the body lift is done then I'll have easier Access to all the lines:)

Anyway, had some good offers for this Burban while I've been in a bind, almost sold it Friday but I think I'm going to keep it. It's Paid for - have recipts for the engine rebuild, ahve reciepts for the Tranny rebuild, Corvette Servo, and shift kit. Have reciepts for my new fuel pump I just put in, have receipts for the MPFI conversion I did.

hell I just need to get it a bit higher, get a tune and Enjoy it now, all the hard part is DONE.

I will tackle the rust on the frame and the front push bar as well as N-Fabs soon as well, then I'm done man.

So you'll see updates to this thing regularly now as I have made it through, and I really don't want ot get rid of it you know.
 

Bahndrvr

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Well, scored some DAMN good condition 35x12.50x20 Mickey Thompsons so the Black rims are staying, paid 125 for all 4 with plenty of life left on them for the amount of miles I put on the burban:)

Torsions are cranked 4 turns now, still fixing that brake line, it's a hurrican here right now so might not be today, but Bodylift will go on starting in the next week or so with a few hours a night to get it on, but I have family coming into town first week of November so have alot of cleaning I have to do.

Only did one sides ball joints, so will finish up the drivers side, and get body lift on then go get the 35's mounted an alignment done at the same time hopefully by 2nd week in November. That's as big as she'll go for a while. 35's on 20's, Bodylift and torion crank, I'm excited to see how she's going to look once I"m done!

Yes, you can fit 4 35's in a little VW GTI BTW -
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The score - should make it look sexy when I'm done with it:)
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