Loud Whine from Transmission Today

[cc333]

OK, it's been in the shop for almost two weeks now, and I'm thinking of ways to avoid blowing the thing again when I get it back, hopefully soon.

For one thing, I just realized that I forgot to add that once or twice (like last year, not recently, so I don't think it contributed directly to the recent blowout), I accidentally set the 4x4 to 4L, and then tried to drive at 40-45 MPH (needless to say, the truck really didn't like doing that). It's amazing the transmission didn't blow THEN, and I feel kind of stupid, because it probably put lots of needless wear and tear on everything (fortunately the engine seems to be fine, so far).

I'm absolutely not going to do that on the new one, unless I stay below ~25 MPH.

Also, I've been reading about transmission coolers, and the fact that the radiator has one built in, which I didn't know. I'm pretty sure the shop is putting everything 100% stock, so I'm sure they'll be hooking the in-radiator cooler back up. However, I also requested an upgraded cooler. In combination with the stock in-radiator cooler (this is a new radiator with less than 2000 miles on it, so I highly doubt it's gonna leak any time soon), is that good enough? Should I add some sort of electric fan? Any other suggestions?? I don't want to blow anything again!

c

 

[Erik the Awful]

the transmission is definitely 100% shot (among other things, the internal shifters seized up, so all gear positions are 'D', even P, R and N). The speculation is that the transmission cooler failed, so I'n getting a new one of those too. $5600!!

This sets off alarm bells in my head. Did they use the term "the internal shifters seized up", or is that your interpretation? The price is also way too high.

Also, if I were that shop I'd swap in a TCI instead of trying to rebuild myself. At $5600, there's plenty of profit. As a customer, I'd prefer a name-brand rebuild rather than some dude in a shop who might have built one before.

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[cc333]

I agree, but what's done is done.

I got it back today and towed my horse trailer (no horses) ~150 miles over a fairly wide range of terrain (long uphill grades, downhill grades, flat, freeway, city streets), and it seemed to do quite well, except for a vibration that feels "off." It's subtle, but it's there, and it varies with engine RPMs. Off balance torque converter? For $5600+, I hope not!

This is most likely unrelated, but the brake light also came on while driving today (last time this happened, the master cylinder was on its way out). It seemed to happen after a particularly hard uphill climb, so maybe heat related? Hopefully it's not expensive!

Anyway, at least it drives again.

c

 

[stutaeng]

I agree, but what's done is done.

I got it back today and towed my horse trailer (no horses) ~150 miles over a fairly wide range of terrain (long uphill grades, downhill grades, flat, freeway, city streets), and it seemed to do quite well, except for a vibration that feels "off." It's subtle, but it's there, and it varies with engine RPMs. Off balance torque converter? For $5600+, I hope not!

This is most likely unrelated, but the brake light also came on while driving today (last time this happened, the master cylinder was on its way out). It seemed to happen after a particularly hard uphill climb, so maybe heat related? Hopefully it's not expensive!

Anyway, at least it drives again.

c

Good to hear it's back on the road! I would talk to the shop about your concerns. Vibration may be a bad u-joint or driveshaft. Does it do it at idle too? Not sure on the brake light issue.

The shop can probably put it on the lift and determine that rather quickly if it's a drive line issue.

 

[cc333]

Vibration may be a bad u-joint or driveshaft. Does it do it at idle too?

It vibrates in all gears, neutral and park, and it does slightly happen at idle as well, especially if I give it a little gas, so I doubt u-joint or driveshaft since the truck would have to be moving. My intuition tells me it's possibly a torque converter and/or flywheel issue to me, but I don't know for sure.

I won't be able to go back to the shop that did the work because I'm now too far away, so I'll have to take it to another that's closer by (it's probably for the best, because I don't really trust that shop 100%, and there's better ones where I am now).

At least the transmission as a whole appears to be good. That was probably the most expensive part.

c

 

[stutaeng]

It vibrates in all gears, neutral and park, and it does slightly happen at idle as well, especially if I give it a little gas, so I doubt u-joint or driveshaft since the truck would have to be moving. My intuition tells me it's possibly a torque converter and/or flywheel issue to me, but I don't know for sure.

I won't be able to go back to the shop that did the work because I'm now too far away, so I'll have to take it to another that's closer by (it's probably for the best, because I don't really trust that shop 100%, and there's better ones where I am now).

c

I'm assuming the TC was replaced? The ones that I've removed have a little metal tab welded to them, I'm assuming that's for balancing? Not sure on rebuilt units...I actually have one getting rebuilt at the moment waiting to get picked up so I can check on that when I get it.

Vibration could be a lot of other things though, from worn harmonic balancer to engine mounts. Not sure how you go about diagnosing a TC not balanced? You sure it wasn't there before the tranny rebuild?

 

[red98]

Honestly for $5600 I'm taking a week off work and taking it to Precision Transmission from YouTube (locations in WA and TX I believe) & I bet that'd still be cheaper.

 

[cc333]

Did they use the term "the internal shifters seized up", or is that your interpretation?

No, but given the fact that it was in drive regardless of shifter position, I assumed it was seized internal shifters, because what else could cause that condition?

I'm assuming the TC was replaced?

As far as I know it was.

You sure it wasn't there before the tranny rebuild?

Pretty sure, yes.

c

 

[Erin]

Good to hear you stuck with the truck. I know how you feel. I’m on my second transmission & engine. First transmission fail was my fault, and who knows about the first engine. I’d probably do it again because I love the truck and love driving it. Plus, it’s still cheaper than buying a new one, and I have no car note.

 

[stutaeng]

No, but given the fact that it was in drive regardless of shifter position, I assumed it was seized internal shifters, because what else could cause that condition?

As far as I know it was.


Pretty sure, yes.

c

Maybe it was the clutches that seized up? I don't recall any internal component called a "shifter" on these units...the shifting is done via the valve body with hydraulics. Mechanically, there's like a direct drum, intermediate and overdrive drums, each with corresponding clutch packs, planetary carriers.. a few sprags and roller clutches and bunch of other parts I can't recall off the top of my head... anyways, at this point it doesn't matter what failed or what it's called, LOL.

Hopefully it's nothing serious.