hey guys, sorry to be the noob here but I had a few questions on how to do my lifted dually suburban, first off, I have a 1999 OBS Chevrolet Suburban K2500, it has the 5.7L 350 small block in it. You may ask why I want to and honestly, it's because I can. I have the time, motivation and persistence to get things done but money is sorta an issue, I'm not wanting to do it cheap, that's why I came here. I don't plan on spending more than $10,000 though. First off, do I really need to swap my rear axle out with a 1 ton axle? Is there more width on a 1 ton axle that gives me the clearance I need or what? if so I'll go to a salvage yard to pick them up, after that I'll need to put new leaf springs under it right? a heavier one ton leaf spring? and obviously if i do the rear I'll have to do the front and have a 1 ton conversion on it as well, following with a upgraded master cylinder for the brakes. I plan on spending $1,500 more or less on that part, then I'll need the dually fenders, dually wheels, and 2 more tires to get it running. Am I missing something here? what else do I need to do? After I'm done converting it to a dually I'm going to put an 8" lift on it with 38x13.5x20 Toyo Open Country MT's on it. I have the money to do this right and I want to do it right, so please help me out if I'm missing something here. I know there's probably some opinions on this saying its stupid but I'm set on doing it. it's my build so please respect that, thanks a lot!!!
Lifted Dually Suburban
- Thread starter Cody_350
- Start date
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GMC Burbalade
Busy slacking
Front end is just spacers, unless you want to SAS it. (I have a set of the spacers if you can't find them local)
With the $10k budget, I'd just go ahead and do the solid axle swap given the amount of lift and the tire you want to run. Compared to an 8" suspension lift for a 2500/3500, it's not that much more if you find a deal on an axle and use leafs.
There are work arounds, but a rear end swap is really the best option. With the 350, you should have the semi float 9.5 rear end, which is only a 3/4 ton axle and was never made in a DRW variant.
The DRW 10.5 rear axles use different hubs with longer tubes and shafts than the SRW 10.5. You'll need one out of a dually pickup as the cab and chassis rear ends are too narrow.
Get both axles, go ahead and rebuild/regear them before swapping them in.
With the $10k budget, I'd just go ahead and do the solid axle swap given the amount of lift and the tire you want to run. Compared to an 8" suspension lift for a 2500/3500, it's not that much more if you find a deal on an axle and use leafs.
There are work arounds, but a rear end swap is really the best option. With the 350, you should have the semi float 9.5 rear end, which is only a 3/4 ton axle and was never made in a DRW variant.
The DRW 10.5 rear axles use different hubs with longer tubes and shafts than the SRW 10.5. You'll need one out of a dually pickup as the cab and chassis rear ends are too narrow.
Get both axles, go ahead and rebuild/regear them before swapping them in.
if I switch the rear axle out for a 1 ton won't I need to put 1 ton axles up front? or can I get away with a solid axle Dana 44 or Dana 60? can I run a 1 ton axle in the rear with the factory 3/4 ton up front with spacers?
GMC Burbalade
Busy slacking
8 lug k2500 Suburban uses the same 9.25 front differential and IFS system as the 1 ton trucks. The only things changed on the 1 tons are the calipers and torsion bars, both would be optional for your swap.
On the 4x4 1 tons, GM used a 4.25" bolt on spacer for the front of the dually trucks.
Dana 44 isn't a 1 ton axle and they never made them for DRW trucks.
Solid axle Dana 60 front and 10.5 14 bolt FF rear would be your best bet.
On the 4x4 1 tons, GM used a 4.25" bolt on spacer for the front of the dually trucks.
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Dana 44 isn't a 1 ton axle and they never made them for DRW trucks.
Solid axle Dana 60 front and 10.5 14 bolt FF rear would be your best bet.
so basically I can keep my front IFS suspension and get the 4.5" spacer that you said GM made? do I need to change my torsion bars out as well? and I'll probably add larger calipers anyways to accommodate for the larger tire size. I've considered doing a straight axle swap but it'll mainly be a road truck with occasional trailing so I'd like to keep the IFS road handling. So if I keep the front IFS and make the changes if neccessary, The only thing in the rear I have to do is swap it for a 10.5" 14 bolt right? but what about the springs? do I need to add 1 ton springs or will my factory 3/4 ton set up work on the axle? what else do I need to do to the rear after the axle swap is basically what I'm asking lol
GMC Burbalade
Busy slacking
It's 4.25", and that's the only thing you actually NEED on the front.
For the rear, you need the 10.5 rear axle from a dually pickup.
You can upgrade to 1 ton torsion bars and leaf packs but the only thing it's going to do is stiffen the ride. They're not needed.
Your IFS system was designed for ~31" tires. The further away from that you get, the more strain it's going to put on ball joints and the faster it's going to wear out the tires because anytime you have traction, your tires will be fighting the suspension as it cycles, which can also result in odd handling characteristics. A solid axle does not rely on tire size for proper alignment and wear, which is one of the advantages.
Assuming you regear before swapping the axle(s) in, all you should need to do is connect brake lines, driveshafts, and breathers and then bleed the brakes. You'll also need extended brake lines for the lift.
For the rear, you need the 10.5 rear axle from a dually pickup.
You can upgrade to 1 ton torsion bars and leaf packs but the only thing it's going to do is stiffen the ride. They're not needed.
Your IFS system was designed for ~31" tires. The further away from that you get, the more strain it's going to put on ball joints and the faster it's going to wear out the tires because anytime you have traction, your tires will be fighting the suspension as it cycles, which can also result in odd handling characteristics. A solid axle does not rely on tire size for proper alignment and wear, which is one of the advantages.
Assuming you regear before swapping the axle(s) in, all you should need to do is connect brake lines, driveshafts, and breathers and then bleed the brakes. You'll also need extended brake lines for the lift.
TylerZ281500
Yukon Ridin High
as sugested i wouldnt run 38s on ifs for a street or offroad queen, solid axle swaps are cheap now and everyone does them with leafs, if you wnat to do it right and ride better 4 link and coils or coilovers, 14ff as suggested is best bet as it can be bought as a dually axle, regear for your tires and your truck wont be a with a 350 powering it.
SCOTTYINWV
si vis pacem, para bellum
I see issues with trying to run x13.50s on a drw setup without some huge spacers.
I can run 13.5's with 2 inch spacers without a problem, how much would it be to straight axle the front of my truck? and if I straight axle it what axle should I put under it? with the axle you recommend will I need the 4.25" as well for the front? I like the softer ride so I probably won't swap the leaf springs, it's not gonna change my gvwr anyways right? save me some money. after I get the lift I'm planning on running 4:56 gears in my truck, the calculations make it close to stock. if I do need the 4.25" spacer where can I get one? a salvage yard. I can't seem to find one online?
TylerZ281500
Yukon Ridin High
they make soft ride springs
