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hey does anyone know a part number from fastenal for the three bolts that hold the hub assembly on?
Thank you. Generally well-done. I do have a couple of corrections and suggestions.Written up by Kawamatt2.
No, but they may have required a 15mm socket.As you can see from the above picture there are three hole on the lug mounting face that allow access to the hub to knuckle bolts. I believe these bolts were 15mm.
I'm not sure why you're replacing the hubs, but you chose good replacements. BEWARE cheap "economy" hubs. They have a very poor reputation due to early failure.These hubs come fully assembled with the abs sensor and wire. I got these from autozone for like $140 or $150 a piece. These are timken units.
I generally reduce the torque on fasteners that would be installed "clean and dry" by 20% when using anti-seize. The anti-seize acts as a thread-and-head lubricant; the bolt gets just as "tight" with less torque because there's less friction. Using the full torque spec for "clean and dry" on a lubricated bolt leads to over-tightening and perhaps bolt failure.Didn't take any pictures of tightening the hub down but i have a few thoughts on it. Spec calls for 133 ft-lbs on the bolts. I added some anti-seize on the bolts to hopefully avoid having to use heat the next time i service the hubs on this truck.
This is NOT CORRECT. The inboard (piston side) pads are the same left and right. The outboard pads are NOT THE SAME, due to the stamped sheet-metal wear-indicator riveted to the pad, visible in your photo--near the two caliper pins. (photo below) Therefore the outer pad is specific to Left vs. Right.If your calipers didn't come loaded go ahead and insert your pads. They only go one way so don't worry about left right or front back.
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Yup. K-series 6-lug trucks come apart as described.it's not a 1500 it's 8 lug for one thing.
YES, BUT make sure the bleeder screw is open, otherwise you'll push the contaminated fluid in the caliper backwards through the system--which can play hell with ABS controllers.let me add this, as for your aliper barely slide off deal, this is why ANYTIME you go to remove it you FIRST pry the pads over to compress the caliper piston. a Big c clamp or using a screwdriver/prybar works to do this. C -clamp is the best of course.