1998 Tahoe 4dr LS Build

[phlegm]

Could just as well be called the maintenance log...

I recently picked up a 1998 Tahoe, I got it cheap for under a grand and drove it home (110 miles). So while *mostly* solid, it has issues.

I'm running this thread mostly so I can keep track of my notes as I do work on it, I work in IT which leaves me plenty of time for researching topics while waiting for upgrades or tech support call back. I've found articles that later, I couldn't remember where or what search terms helped me find them.

Eons ago I had been ASE Certified in Brakes, Electrical, and Suspension systems. This doesn't mean I won't ask seemingly dumb questions from time to time)
One of the companies I support has engineers and CNC plasma table and brake, so I'll be making some things.
I also have a wife, 2 small kids (ages 4 and 6) plus a hobby farm to maintain, so my fun projects can take a long (long, long) time to complete, but maintenance always happens. I like to document it all..

I'm a cheapskate and I don't like to pay for things that I can do myself, or build myself.
I don't like to replace working components (not even for upgrades that I really, really, really want)


Every project needs goals, constraints, needs, and wishlist items.

Goals
Reliable Daily Driver
Low Maintenance, easily found replacement parts.
I like to buy lifetime warranty parts from local parts stores.
But I balance that with online pricing.. like O2 sensors that are $65 at O'Reillys are only $25 on Amazon, same brand and part number, thats a no brainer.

Constraints
Must fit inside garage with 7ft door opening
Must be easy for kids to get in and out of
A couple times per year I want to be able to participate in the stock classes of my local 4wd club
http://www.jvornd.com/RULES.html
Must remain street legal
No tire size larger than 33"
Custom tuning is questionable (I don't see it specifically prohibited)


So now onto my Wishlist.

Car------------------ 1998 Tahoe LS

Body
General ------------- Debadged, remove pin stripes.
Hood----------------- Stock
Fenders-------------- Stock
Wheel Opening Trim -- Looking at options to black out.
Grill --------------- Body Color
Options-------------- Blacked out grill
Headlights ---------- Aftermarket, mine are hazed and cracked.
Daytime Running Lights - disabled (they annoy the hell out of me)
Front bumper -------- Custom with stinger/light bar/receiver hitch
Rear Bumper --------- Custom with swing tire holder and corner steps, built in reciever hitch
Roor Rack ----------- Custom tubular with room for lights
Running Boards ------ Custom Rock Slides or boat sides

Drivetrain
Engine--------------- 5.7L Vortec (stock)
Head----------------- Stock
Induction------------ Stock
Ignition------------- Stock
Injection ----------- CSFI to MPFI upgrade
Throttle Body ------- Trim restrictor plate for increased airflow
Cam------------------ stock
Exhaust-------------- Shorty Headers direct OEM replacements
Fan------------------ Electric fan
Skid Plate ---------- Custom, biggest one I can make.

Tranny-------------- 4l60 (stock)
Rear --------------- 14b
Front -------------- 9.25 upgrade
Lockers ------------ Selectable and both ends (front/rear)

Battery------------ Stock (think about dual batteries though)
Air intake--------- Intake Silencer removal -- done
A/C---------------- Fix Stock, none works, Previous Owner said it was one of the rear AC hoses.
Electrical--------- I want LED's everywhere possible (dash/turn signals/tail lights/backup lights/dome light/Glovebox) plus I'd like to add some under dash and maybe some under body.


Suspension
Lift --------------- 4" max, there is no rubbing currently with stock height.
Rims---------------- 17 inch
Front Brakes ------- 2500 Rotors, 3/4t or 1t calipers
Rear Brakes -------- Stock drums
Brake Booster ------ Hydroboost
Tires--------------- 265/70 17 (32" tall)
Torsion Bars ------- Replace Tahoe crossmember and Torsion Rods with Truck (1500/2500) crossmember and rods
Rear Leaf Springs -- Truck (1500/2500) stock springs
Rear Shackle ------- Reverse them
Traction Bar ------- Build One, center mount, shackle in the front
Swaybars ----------- Research 2500/3500 options (truck or suburban)

Interior
Front Seats---------- Stock
Back Seat------------ Stock
Upholstry------------ Stock

So this is where I began.

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[phlegm]

Battery Cable End loose.
Twice since I've owned this Tahoe, I have had a loose connection on the positive cable of the battery. On both occasions, the Tahoe wouldn't start and the positive cable bolt was too hot to hold onto. The first time I cleaned it with a wire brush and reassembled it.

The second time I did this.. unfortunately this was a 'roadside repair'. I had NO tools of my own in the Tahoe and used a pair of vice grips for all wrenching activities.
When I started it looked 'normal' but I could grab the either of the positive cables and twist them freely.

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The came apart as one unit, and I separated them.

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The bolt was wet... that's odd.

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These are the parts I used, I was at a local hardware store, all of these parts together cost 85 cents.
(1) 3/8" stud about 2.5" long. Coarse thread on one end (into the battery) and fine thread on the other end. I would have preferred coarse on both ends.
(2) star washers, to improve contact between battery and cable ends
(3) 5/16 flat washers, to fill up space between the second battery cable and the nut
(1) 3/8" fine thread nut

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Thread the coarse end into the battery, put on the first star washer

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Put on the first battery cable end and then the second star washer.

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Toss on the second battery cable and the 3 flat washers, then the nut

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Tighten it all down and drive away.

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I'll have to go back for another nut, and use a proper wrench next time. Maybe even use another flat washer or 2.

 

[phlegm]

Tires and Wheels.. $25 (plus valve stems and balancing)
The tires and wheels that were on it when I bought it were mediocre at best.
I shopped for new ones, I watched craigslist.
and during this time, I decided that I really wanted to upgrade to 265/70R17 tires. I already own 2 other vehicles (2012 Tahoe and 2005 F250) that used this size tire, so it makes sense for me to keep all the daily drivers on the same size, plus moving up an inch in outside diameter was a nice upgrade without getting too far from stock.

The tires are Goodyear ATS Wrangler 265/70R17, free from my boss about 8/32-9/32 remaining.
The rims are stock 2007 Nissan Titan steelies that I bought from Craigslist for $25 (total)
I had the valve stems in my shop from a project that I never got around to last Summer, and I mounted them myself with soapy water and some long pry bars.

Stock Rims Specifications
1998 Chevrolet Tahoe-4WD Specs
16x7 | Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7 | Center Bore: 78.1 | Hardware:14x1.50 Lug | Offset: 15-25mm
2007 Nissan Titan Tim is as follows
17x7.5" | Bolt Pattern: 6x5.5 | Center Bore: ?? | Offset: +25 mm offset


All 4 rims were like this, dirty and cheap. (I prefer steel wheels)

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Pulled in new valve stems

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Getting ready to put the rubber on the rim.

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First one, all done. Good and soapy.

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A magic 25 minutes later, all 4 are done!

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Side by Side, old (small) next to new (taller)

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Top view, same.. old on the left, "new" on the right

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Fender ender edge to rim lip comparison with old tires/rims

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"New" tire/rim combo and fender lip with same upright for comparison.

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These are the exact same size tire (sorry about the non-GMT400 pic), but this is why I need a lift of some sort. If I ever experience uptravel, those tires are going to be eating fender lip.

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[phlegm]

Its been a while, I haven't really done much, I changed the driver side exhaust donut, I tried to change the passenger side but the front exhaust stud nut is completely rounded off so I need to figure out how to get that out/broke so I can change it. And the 3 nuts that hold the downpipe (O2 pipes) to the muffler pipe.

I replaced both upper ball joints, I still need to install the pitman and idler arms that I bought a while back.

I picked up, but haven't installed yet a set of stock running boards.

I've been reading about brake upgrades
NBS Front Brake Swap for OBS Trucks -- GMT400.com
I called my local wrecking yard and they sell the complete spindle/brake assemblies for $50/each
Now I just need to find a taper (or compare the price of a machine shop to the cost of a taper)

And I am really interested in the 0411 ECM swap
12200411 PCM swap for 1996 to 2000 GMT400 trucks -- GMT400.com
Blackbox to 12200411 PCM Swap -- GMTruckCentral.com
Again, I asked the local wrecking yard, the ECM plus a foot of wiring will set me back $35

I just need to nail down tuning costs, most articles say EFILive but at $900, that takes the 'cheap' right out of 'cheap upgrade"