1996 Chevy C 1500 vortec 5.7 Rotor and Hub question

[Schurkey]

But my ball joints bolt in!

On an 8-lug? Your '92 "Frank"?

That's good to know. I figured the bolt-in joints went on weaker arms, which is why the heavier trucks got forged arms. I guess I was wrong.

 

[Frank Enstein]

I've no idea what the previous ID10Ts put on there but the ball joints looked up correctly @ Summit.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Maybe the 2WD trucks got the forged control arms.

 

[Schurkey]

My '88 K1500 had stamped arms w/ bolt-in lower joints.

My '97 K2500 8-lug has the forged lower arms.

Perhaps it's a model-year thing.

 

[OBS Oregon]

Update on my truck from xxxx Working on my recently purchased 1996 Chevy C1500 which had a 2in lift and big tires that stick out. It needed an alignment but before that could happen the front end has to be done and the 3in wheel spacers have to come off because they are part of the problem Its not a 4 wheel drive vehicle but the kid who owned it though he could turn it into one. I try to take off the wheel spacers but the bolts are stripped so I pull off the rotors and go out and buy new 6 bolt rotors and put them on the front. I then go to tackle the back tires and remove those 3 inch wheel spacers. Wait... now i discover the rotors and drums are actually 5 bolt pattern and the wheel spacers turned them into the 6 bolt style. Couldn't tell this because the wheel spacers actually hid the original 5 studs behind the first set of spacers. Ugh.. Life is an adventure.....

 

[Schurkey]

1996 Chevy C 1500/ vortec 5.7/ so this is a Rotor and Hub question.

buy new 6 bolt rotors and put them on the front. I then go to tackle the back tires and remove those 3 inch wheel spacers. Wait... now i discover the rotors and drums are actually 5 bolt pattern and the wheel spacers turned them into the 6 bolt style. Couldn't tell this because the wheel spacers actually hid the original 5 studs behind the first set of spacers.

Frickin' EXCELLENT!

You already have 6-lug wheels, and you've got the matching 6-lug hubs/rotors in front.

You're ALL SET to scrap the crappy half-ton rear axle with horrible rear brakes for a 6-lug C2500 9.5" ring-gear axle having bigger, 11.130 Duo-Servo rear brakes. You'll need a conversion rear U-joint and fresh U-bolts to do the swap.

 

[OBS Oregon]

Frickin' EXCELLENT!

You already have 6-lug wheels, and you've got the matching 6-lug hubs/rotors in front.

You're ALL SET to scrap the crappy half-ton rear axle with horrible rear brakes for a 6-lug C2500 9.5" ring-gear axle having bigger, 11.130 Duo-Servo rear brakes. You'll need a conversion rear U-joint and fresh U-bolts to do the swap.

That is a good idea! Thanks

 

[RI Chevy guy]

The 1500's came with stamped control arms, but the 2500 forged arms do fit on the 1500. You will need to ream the ball joint hole a bit for the larger ball joint, but this also gives you a larger ball joint- never a bad thing! The high end (and high dollar) aftermarket has developed a 2- piece hub and rotor using sealed bearings for the front, I'm putting these on mine at the tail end of the build. But here's another direction: The 2500 rotors are a 1500 rotor with the 6 lug pattern, same pads, bearings, seals, all that. Six lug c-clip axles are also available for the rear, not horribly expensive, way cheaper and less headache than swapping the rear end out! This would also give you fresh surfaces for the wheel seals, which are in probability leaking a bit already. Would also be a good time for the hallowed rear disc swap, if it interests you.

 

[OBS Oregon]

The 1500's came with stamped control arms, but the 2500 forged arms do fit on the 1500. You will need to ream the ball joint hole a bit for the larger ball joint, but this also gives you a larger ball joint- never a bad thing! The high end (and high dollar) aftermarket has developed a 2- piece hub and rotor using sealed bearings for the front, I'm putting these on mine at the tail end of the build. But here's another direction: The 2500 rotors are a 1500 rotor with the 6 lug pattern, same pads, bearings, seals, all that. Six lug c-clip axles are also available for the rear, not horribly expensive, way cheaper and less headache than swapping the rear end out! This would also give you fresh surfaces for the wheel seals, which are in probability leaking a bit already. Would also be a good time for the hallowed rear disc swap, if it interests you.

Thanks for the informatoin. I was just lookin at what to do with the rear end. I saw a couple options but swaping out the axels with 6 lugs makes the most sense. Then I have to figure out a bolt on rotor kit to complete the build. Question is... will the original C1500 axel housing and gears be good enough ? Im not going mountain climbing or any crazy lifts.

 

[OBS Oregon]

Does anyone know if the calipers on a 1996 Chevy C1500 are the same as the ones on a 1996 Chevy K1500?