What you hear is from guys with incorrect backspacing
35s
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aint that the truth. You can take the exact same truck, slap on a 35 inch tire on a stock BS wheel, but yet the same truck on an aftermarket wheel might not clear a 33. If the wheels stick out more, which is less BS it's gonna have more chance to rub. if you keep the tall tires tucked with close to stock BS you can clear bigger/taller tires, this runs you into frame rub at wheel lock or close, only due to the added width of the tire, narrow wheels help this, less backspace keeps you away from the frame, but puts you closer to rubbing.
It's a hairy kinda deal, you want tall, but if you want wide, you might have to give up height. if you get em out to clear the frame at full lock, you might need shorter, if you put em in more with more BS you can run taller but might have to go narrow. So it's a toss up. If you do 10's you're gonna need a shorter tire due to less BS, if you custom order some, with more BS, you might stay with a taller tire, but them being wide, the tire is still gonna be out there with the end of the wheel.
I say 33's on 10's and 3 inch is good, but 33's unless you get like a 13 or wider, 10 inch is almost overkill, but it works and it's just my opinion like that on running a 12.50 or something.
35's on stockers maybe 7's or even 8's, but 8's would be pushing it, mainly same thing, they get pushed out, not many aftermarket wheels period have 4.5 or more BS. I think stock BS is like 5-5.5. You can find some 4.5 or 4.25 BS aftermarkets I know.
But it's all in the wheels and their width and backspace, as mentioned some guys clear 35's on stockers, crank or maybe not?
Other's can barely clear 33's on a body lift and crank, mostly due to wide wheels and small BS. sagging bars could come into play as well, but mostly it's the wheels.