Threw a Rod. How can this happen in 2023

[Erik the Awful]

Did he mean that the transmission has to be disconnected from the engine first? Because that's true. That's the largest part of pulling the engine, but it's not a week-long process. On Vortecs it means pulling the starter, the transmission support rods, the torque converter cover plate, removing the torque converter bolts, then removing the bellhousing bolts. Done. If you have a lift, power tools, and you've done it a few times, that's about an hour's worth of work. Then you just have all the engine stuff to remove.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Did he mean that the transmission has to be disconnected from the engine first? Because that's true. That's the largest part of pulling the engine, but it's not a week-long process. On Vortecs it means pulling the starter, the transmission support rods, the torque converter cover plate, removing the torque converter bolts, then removing the bellhousing bolts. Done. If you have a lift, power tools, and you've done it a few times, that's about an hour's worth of work. Then you just have all the engine stuff to remove.

I have always left the transmission in the vehicle. I can have the engine on the build stand in under 2 hours on these trucks without a lift. It only took me like 2 hours to drop the L31 I built into the G20 van by myself, mating it to the transmission was the worst part of it. The easiest way to support the front of the transmission is a heavy duty ratchet strap, 1,000-2,000 lbs load capacity. Go under the transmission bellhousing at the oil pan rail, over the frame on each side, wrap the strap around the frame and catch the frame with each hook. Then tighten the ratchet strap until it is TIGHT. Lift the engine off the mounts before you remove the two lowest bellhousing bolts and tighten any slack in the strap. The goal is to pin the transmission between the floor pan and ratchet strap. Now you can remove the engine without the transmission tipping down in the front or rolling side to side. The torque converter also stays seated adding to ease of engine re-installation.

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[dmhscorpion]

Sorry gentlemen, I left out the most important detail (oversight on my part): it's a 5.7 liter. I was doing 40 mph and punched it to 55mph or so pass a slow-moving truck up a short, but really steep hill. No mods at all to the original engine.

I really don't need snarky comments implying that I altered, or wished to alter, my emission system (no way I'd ever do that) and stating that I didn't just see a Jeg's advertisement for a new long block for $2,399. Also, while I take full blame for accelerating like I did, it is a fair question to ask where/what the computer was doing at the time. Antagonistic comments are really not necessary bro. It's a difficult time for me as alot of money just walked away (and my wife and I can't use our beloved Camper). Thanks for understanding. P

Replacement Crate Engine for 1996-2000 for 5.7 Vortec Long Block Chevy​

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[Bob2650]

Greetings! First post here but I know quite a lot about blowing up engines! Almost always this involves lack of lubrication. Oil will turn into foam if you beat on it hard enough with a crankshaft. Oil pumps don't do well with foam. Don't know about the newer versions but the old small-block chevy engines will throw a rod if you hold 5,000 RPM for too long. Also they use lots of oil when pushed like that. I have opened up a lot of blown engines and never found one without some kind of oiling problem. Frequently you can't tell how much oil was in it because the oil was dumped on the track or road out the new hole in the block but the surviving bearings will tell the story.
Solutions I have used have included RPM limiters in the ignition, Murphy Gauge wired to kill the engine when the oil pressure is too low and dry sump systems. I use an oil temp gauge because that can give me a hint that the oil is low. When the oil temp goes up when it has no good reason to be going up, stop and check the oil level! A jiggle of the mechanical oil pressure gauge needle tells me the oil pump just gulped some air or foam and I need to back off and check the oil level right away unless there was a good reason for the oil pump to try to pump some air such as hitting the brakes very hard coming down a very steep incline.

 

[Bob2650]

Second most common cause of blowing up an engine is over-reving from downshifting too soon. I have no reason to think that is the case here.

 

[blackburb]

He's a f***ing moron.

Agree with this 100%. My BIL and I swapped a crate motor into my 97 c1500 over a weekend… it could have been done inside of 8 hours but my sister made him go to her friends wedding on Saturday LOL. The bigger PITA was replacing the motor mounts. Had to R&R the lower control arms to access the nuts holding the motor mounts to the frame. Plan on replacing the distributor/crank sensor. The distributor wears into the motor.

 

[Schurkey]

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The GM "HT383" is specifically targeted at half-ton trucks. There won't be a warranty if it's crammed into a 2500.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

The wty reason is why GM lost the HT383E sale as well. No warranty in a Van either. That being said at 13,000 lbs combined into a headwind my 383 even with 210cc intake ports chugs along in overdrive until it gets a pretty good grade in front of it. This video was more directed toward my use of a clutch fan and the thread I have about the EV fan clutch, but the 383 never ran over 3K rpm today, never had to turn it harder. At 3K it makes about 500 ft/lbs so no need to spin it hard to get actual work done.

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[j 1985 chevy]

Actually, it was a rod bearing that went out on me.



1999 Chevy C2500 Classic 4X2 Regular Cab w. 10.5” Axle with 152K total miles, original engine and 4L80E. Hauling a 3,500# Lance Truck Camper at 8,700# total GVW. I’m the second owner and have maintained the truck as well as the original owner.



I thought our trucks have all sorts of electronic safety equipment and computers that would prevent the engine from overrevving under heavy load. That worthless (seems now to me) equipment caused my transmission to go into safe mode numerous times last year until I replaced all four O2 and the MAF sensor. But it didn’t help me when I really needed it.



I take blame because I charged up a steep hill in D with the Camper on it fully loaded and this overrevved the engine. Fully floored. My fault. I saw the oil pressure drop, then started hearing the clunking we’ve all heard at some point in our lives (usually as teenagers doing dumb things). Oil smoke billowed out of the engine compartment.



A close friend who has been drag racing for years came to pick up the TC (AAA wouldn’t tow both, another saga that Sunday), and confirmed internal engine damage, likely a rod bearing.



This breaks my heart. Esp. considering all the work I’ve done to set the truck up right.



My question for the folks here: is it worth it to buy a new Vortec to swap it out. I would have to pay someone to do it. I estimate a new long block would be $2,500; $500 for incidentals; and around $1,500 for labor in Oregon. What do you guys think?

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Did you have the truck as new if not how knows wat the previous owner did i would look at it as a good opportunity and do a swap you could go with a small black I would go with a old style 454 big block use a trans controller if it was me I would use a carbI would stay away for a ls and small block because of the weight you are pulling it not that hard to swap a motor im dow a ls 6.0 in a c20 to k20 conversion but I'm not going to pull no wigh

 

[HawkDsl]

Very sorry to hear the news for the OP... If it was me it's a no brainer, as there is no fkn way I'm giving up on my GMT400. I bought mine brand freaking new in 1989 for 15k. Specing a similar new truck at Chevy's web site says a new one is 3X the price (45k)

No.

Fortunate for me, I've the necessary skillz and tools to rebuild my entire truck. Taking my truck to someone for work (other than tires and front end alignments) seems forbidden. In fact now that I think about it, the only time it ever went to a shop was for the ball join recall Chevy did.

I know this is not the case for the vast majority, but an engine swap, no matter it's cost, is worth saving a GMT400 for.