Threw a Rod. How can this happen in 2023

[Westieterrier]

Actually, it was a rod bearing that went out on me.



1999 Chevy C2500 Classic 4X2 Regular Cab w. 10.5” Axle with 152K total miles, original engine and 4L80E. Hauling a 3,500# Lance Truck Camper at 8,700# total GVW. I’m the second owner and have maintained the truck as well as the original owner.



I thought our trucks have all sorts of electronic safety equipment and computers that would prevent the engine from overrevving under heavy load. That worthless (seems now to me) equipment caused my transmission to go into safe mode numerous times last year until I replaced all four O2 and the MAF sensor. But it didn’t help me when I really needed it.



I take blame because I charged up a steep hill in D with the Camper on it fully loaded and this overrevved the engine. Fully floored. My fault. I saw the oil pressure drop, then started hearing the clunking we’ve all heard at some point in our lives (usually as teenagers doing dumb things). Oil smoke billowed out of the engine compartment.



A close friend who has been drag racing for years came to pick up the TC (AAA wouldn’t tow both, another saga that Sunday), and confirmed internal engine damage, likely a rod bearing.



This breaks my heart. Esp. considering all the work I’ve done to set the truck up right.



My question for the folks here: is it worth it to buy a new Vortec to swap it out. I would have to pay someone to do it. I estimate a new long block would be $2,500; $500 for incidentals; and around $1,500 for labor in Oregon. What do you guys think?

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[Erik the Awful]

That's a question only you can answer. How much do you love this truck? For a good running truck that just needs a motor, I'd wheel it into my garage ASAP. If I had to pay someone else to do it, my enthusiasm would be much less.

 

[Supercharged111]

I doubt you were as hard on it as you seem to think you were. I drive around foot to the floor all the time fully loaded, but I also don't overheat the truck. They just don't get hot no matter what. As for me? I still think $4500 is cheaper than a new truck.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I doubt you were as hard on it as you seem to think you were. I drive around foot to the floor all the time fully loaded, but I also don't overheat the truck. They just don't get hot no matter what. As for me? I still think $4500 is cheaper than a new truck.

Not to mention, they no longer make them like these trucks. The new ones are trash, lucky to last 100K miles and they want 70-100K for them. Personally given the choice of putting an engine in or buying a later model, put the engine in it. Especially if the vehicle is already modified to fit the specific needs for a specific function.

I doubt he is anywhere close to as hard as I was on the 350 in my 97. I was WOT for close to 100 miles once on it, towing my travel trailer into a stiff head wind, trying to outrun a storm. I parked at my destination and the storm hit 10 minutes later. 50+ mph wind gusts, flash flooding, and the like.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

How fast were you going? I'd wager the drag played a big part of it.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

How fast were you going? I'd wager the drag played a big part of it.

Wind drag was most of it for me. I was running 70-75 mph into a 20-30 mph head wind pulling a 10' tall x 8' wide x 26' long 6,000 lbs box on wheels, I had the shifter pulled down into 2nd gear and the pedal flat against the floor at times climbing grades. The engine was spinning about ~4K rpm.

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[0xDEADBEEF]

I meant the OP and his engine's unfortunate death.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I meant the OP and his engine's unfortunate death.

That makes sense. I have seen similar failure from sludge choked oil pickup tubes or low oil level. My neighbor at the shop blew up the 6.2L in his 4th gen Camaro launching it hard not knowing it was nearly 2qts low on oil, spun rod bearings. Luckily for him he works for LKQ.

 

[Supercharged111]

How fast were you going? I'd wager the drag played a big part of it.

Something else was wrong. If all was well he should have been able to flat foot the thing all day and not blow it up. I've been towing for a long time with these trucks with all the drag, up all the hills, at altitude with thin air, and they take it in stride without coming close to overheating.

 

[Schurkey]

Actually, it was a rod bearing that went out on me.

1999 Chevy C2500 Classic 4X2 Regular Cab w. 10.5” Axle with 152K total miles, original engine and 4L80E.

WHAT ENGINE???

I thought our trucks have all sorts of electronic safety equipment and computers that would prevent the engine from overrevving under heavy load. That worthless (seems now to me) equipment caused my transmission to go into safe mode numerous times last year until I replaced all four O2 and the MAF sensor. But it didn’t help me when I really needed it.

Kept you from screwing-up the engine and catalytic converters, didn't it?

I take blame because I charged up a steep hill in D with the Camper on it fully loaded and this overrevved the engine. Fully floored. My fault.

A moment ago you were blaming the computer.

My question for the folks here: is it worth it to buy a new Vortec to swap it out. I would have to pay someone to do it. I estimate a new long block would be $2,500; $500 for incidentals; and around $1,500 for labor in Oregon.

WHICH "new Vortec"??? I think your estimate is very low, and even so it's entirely worth it if you like the truck. I have no idea where you can get a "new Vortec...long block" for $2500.

OTOH, are you really needing a Duramax/Allison?