The Stupid Lift Questions Thread

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df2x4

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I have 3 inch torsion keys in my 1997 1500 and the truck has been wearing out pitman arms and idler arms a lot. Does anyone know of a way to correct this?

If you've got your keys cranked 3", that's why. Aftermarket keys are a complete waste of money on these trucks. You can already go too high with the stock ones. Decrank about an inch or more, and then go get an alignment.
 

Sloan

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I have a 97 z71. 6” lift with bilstein shocks and a three inch body lift. I bought it this way. When the lift was installed the po didn’t have the exhaust extended so the front drive shaft has to be reinstalled. Is there a kit out the somewhere that I can buy to do this or is an exhaust shop my only option? Yeah I’m a newb I know. Sorry for the stupid question but hey at least it’s in the right thread.
 
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Sloan

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I haven't heard of a kit, would be good idea, so I'd call around an ask a couple shops unless u can weld ur own
I thought about having a shop just make some 3” extensions and have them split the ends. Then I could just cut the exhaust and put them on with clamps. Don’t know how well that’d work though. I’m not much of a welder unfortunately.
 

Sloan

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I have yet another stupid question. I’m sure there’ll be more later. As far as I know my gearing is all stock. Not sure what they are. I’m a newb at all this so please be patient. I currently have 35’s but it looks like I can fit 37’s on there. Will this affect my rear end? Will I have to change the gear ratio?


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JCribb

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I have yet another stupid question. I’m sure there’ll be more later. As far as I know my gearing is all stock. Not sure what they are. I’m a newb at all this so please be patient. I currently have 35’s but it looks like I can fit 37’s on there. Will this affect my rear end? Will I have to change the gear ratio?


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Yes you should definitely consider regearing, if the decal is still in your glove box, you should be able to find the code for your gears (example GU6 is a 3.42 ratio).

Here's a list of the most common factory ratios and codes:

GT4 Axle Rear (Dup of 5X1) 3.73
GT5 Axle Rear (Dup of GT8) 4.10
GT7 Axle Rear 3.33
GT8 Axle Rear (Dup of GT5) 4.10
GU1 Axle Rear 2.41
GU2 Axle Rear 2.73
GU3 Axle Rear 2.93
GU4 Axle Rear 3.08
GU5 Axle Rear 3.23
GU6 Axle Rear 3.42

G80 is the factory gov-lock limited slip, and it really isn't all that great.

However, on the chance your truck has been regeared, you can also get a paint marker and make a mark on the driveshaft and the axle on the pinion side (straight across from one another), then jack up the rear of the truck and count the number of turns it takes for your tire (make a mark on the tire or brake drum as well) to make one complete rotation. This will get you pretty close to gear ratio. Sorry if I over explained anything, I wasn't trying to insult intelligence, but give more than enough information to understand it the first time.

A basic idea for tire size and gear ratios, for a street driven truck, 4.10's and 35's are a good combination, 4.56 and 37's.

The 10 bolt axle itself is weak, and if you can find one, there is the light duty 14 bolt axle which is found in 3/4 ton six lug trucks.
 

Sloan

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Yes you should definitely consider regearing, if the decal is still in your glove box, you should be able to find the code for your gears (example GU6 is a 3.42 ratio).

Here's a list of the most common factory ratios and codes:

GT4 Axle Rear (Dup of 5X1) 3.73
GT5 Axle Rear (Dup of GT8) 4.10
GT7 Axle Rear 3.33
GT8 Axle Rear (Dup of GT5) 4.10
GU1 Axle Rear 2.41
GU2 Axle Rear 2.73
GU3 Axle Rear 2.93
GU4 Axle Rear 3.08
GU5 Axle Rear 3.23
GU6 Axle Rear 3.42

However, on the chance your truck has been regeared, you can also get a paint marker and make a mark on the driveshaft and the axle on the pinion side (straight across from one another), then jack up the rear of the truck and count the number of turns it takes for your tire (make a mark on the tire or brake drum as well) to make one complete rotation. This will get you pretty close to gear ratio. Sorry if I over explained anything, I wasn't trying to insult intelligence, but give more than enough information to understand it the first time.

A basic idea for tire size and gear ratios, for a street driven truck, 4.10's and 35's are a good combination, 4.56 and 37's.

The 10 bolt axle itself is weak, and if you can find one, there is the light duty 14 bolt axle which is found in 3/4 ton six lug trucks.
No need to apologize. This is exactly the info I was looking for. I’m a fairly smart guy and catch on quick. Thankfully Im also smart enough to realize that it’s always better to ask questions than let your ego tear something up. Greatly appreciate your help!

Having the 35’s on there I would’ve thought my rpms would’ve been much higher at highway speeds but at about 70 or 75mph they’re sitting at 2k. That’s why I’m assuming they’re stock. But again I’m new and although this makes sense to me it may be way off track. I’m looking forward to being on here though. So much to learn and see and with my truck I’m gonna need all the help I can get.


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JCribb

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I know I can get carried away explaining my point, and I have been on the other side looking for information and only getting half the details.

I do know that, using google can answer a crap load of questions, if you are willing to do some reading.
 

Sloan

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I know I can get carried away explaining my point, and I have been on the other side looking for information and only getting half the details.

I have a tendency to do the same if it’s a subject I know about. I’m decent when it comes to motors and such. This is the first truck I’ve owned that’s been modified like this. I had an 01 z71 but all it had was a body lift and some mastercraft mts. This is pretty extreme for me so it’s a learning process.


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