The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

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NYDeer

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New to me '97 GMC Seirra K1500.
The parking brake cables are shot, zip tied up from just hanging.
Parking brake dash light is lit.
Pulling parking brake release, lifting pedal with my foot, Parking Brake goes out. Wonderful.
This other dash light indicator illuminates immediately. Engaging parking brake pedal reverses the illumination.
What is this other dash lamp?
 

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Komet

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1992 K2500 5.7 ECSB, I'm having trouble getting tach output from my aftermarket ECM. Can I simply take the white wire off the coil and pipe it directly to the white wire that goes to the tach? Or do I need a resistor / buffer box / voltage transmogrifier?
 

someotherguy

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New to me '97 GMC Seirra K1500.
The parking brake cables are shot, zip tied up from just hanging.
Parking brake dash light is lit.
Pulling parking brake release, lifting pedal with my foot, Parking Brake goes out. Wonderful.
This other dash light indicator illuminates immediately. Engaging parking brake pedal reverses the illumination.
What is this other dash lamp?
Daytime running lights, which on these trucks, turn off when you apply the parking brake.

Richard
 

someotherguy

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1992 K2500 5.7 ECSB, I'm having trouble getting tach output from my aftermarket ECM. Can I simply take the white wire off the coil and pipe it directly to the white wire that goes to the tach? Or do I need a resistor / buffer box / voltage transmogrifier?
Sounds like a question for your aftermarket ECM people so you don't risk blowing it up. That extra, normally not-connected white wire near the coil is indeed tach signal, though.

Richard
 

Komet

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Sounds like a question for your aftermarket ECM people so you don't risk blowing it up. That extra, normally not-connected white wire near the coil is indeed tach signal, though.

Richard
There's no risk to my ECM; it already has a tach signal but I'm having difficulty getting their tach output to work with the in-dash tach. My conversation so far with tech support isn't confidence inspiring so I'm evaluating alternatives and I wasn't sure if the signal direct from the coil was safe to connect to the tach.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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My conversation so far with tech support isn't confidence inspiring so I'm evaluating alternatives and I wasn't sure if the signal direct from the coil was safe to connect to the tach.
I'm running that white wire from the coil directly to the input on my Dakota Digital Dash :waytogo:
 

Shane B

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Quick question, I’ve got a 95 suburban and I purchased two keyless entry remotes but when I try to program the second one the first one doesn’t work, are these only setup to have one remote?
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Okay guys, I have a question about the electrical system on Rawhide the crew cab('97 C3500 Silverado, 5.7 etc.)
The power locks quit working again yesterday evening. Every time this has happened since we've had this truck, it's been a precursor of battery problems. The current battery has been in it since May 9 of this year, replaced a new one bought and installed on December 6 of last year. That one replaced a battery I installed in August or September last year, when the group 75 one that was in the truck quit. That first replacement was a used group 78 that I was given, so I have no issues with it. But these allegedly new ones from Sam's Club, first one was $150, and they're supposed to have 3 year replacement, no BS, I think should last longer..... especially since we have to have the Plus membership at $110 annually to have ANY warranty.
The cables are tight and clean, and the connections under the hood look good. The voltmeter starts out at 13.5-14, and then tapers off some once we've driven a couple of miles. The AC has a brand new blower motor that works great, and all the other accessories and lights work normally and properly. Trailer wiring isn't hacked up, and the added connector harness is installed and grounded properly.
I think the alternator is good, the belt and tensioner seem tight, so what do I need to look at here? A new battery is a whole paycheck for me, so I really don't want to go there every 5-6 months....
Thanks in advance!
 

someotherguy

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The power locks quit working again yesterday evening. Every time this has happened since we've had this truck, it's been a precursor of battery problems. The current battery has been in it since May 9 of this year, replaced a new one bought and installed on December 6 of last year. That one replaced a battery I installed in August or September last year, when the group 75 one that was in the truck quit. That first replacement was a used group 78 that I was given, so I have no issues with it. But these allegedly new ones from Sam's Club, first one was $150, and they're supposed to have 3 year replacement, no BS, I think should last longer.....
Yoooo... so it sounds like you're going through a new battery roughly each year, or am I reading that wrong? If so, time to do a full check of the charging system. Fully charge then load test the battery, check alternator output, etc. I recall you had a parasitic draw situation with one of the trucks with the notorious vanity mirror lamps staying on, and they're disconnected now, but have you had any other scenarios with something running down the battery? Each deep discharge shortens the life a bunch, I feel silly telling you this as I'm sure you already know.

Richard
 
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