The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

[Eveready]

What year is your truck?
If it's a 92-94 I'm fairly certain a 92-94 cluster with a tach already in it will work. ... Not to mention if it isn't set up for your tire size and gear ratio, it'll need to be reset and the kits are gone. There's a work around for that I think though.

I found a tach cluster for cheap that I am going to try. My truck is a 1993 work truck that came with a 305 V8. Along the way it acquired a 350 and of course I had the usual 200K mile transmission rebuild. It runs and drives fairly well.

I'll keep my fingers crossed on calibration and if it is off I will definitely be back for more advice. It has a fairly tall rear end on it so speedometer may be an issue. Thanks for your help.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

What year truck did the cluster come out of? Was that a V8 truck? If it's a 92-94 you'll be all set. Big give away is that if it's a 92-94 it'll look just like your current cluster only it has a tach.

 

[Eveready]

What year truck did the cluster come out of? Was that a V8 truck? If it's a 92-94 you'll be all set. Big give away is that if it's a 92-94 it'll look just like your current cluster only it has a tach.

A 94 I think. I HOPE it it was out of a V8.. is there a way to tell before trying? It was cheap enough that I'm not out much if it doesn't work. I am really tired of not having a tach.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

I'm not sure if they're marked or not but the big giveaway is that it'll be inaccurate. I believe it'll read much higher than it should.

 

[GarrettGmc]

Looking through Craigslist an may have found something as a quick flip but feeling stupid for a sec . Truck is a 95 5.7, question is is the 95 obd1 or obd2. I would assume obd1 cause I kno 96 an up is obd2 but with 95 being that old year wasn't sure

 

[Blue Turd]

Looking through Craigslist an may have found something as a quick flip but feeling stupid for a sec . Truck is a 95 5.7, question is is the 95 obd1 or obd2. I would assume obd1 cause I kno 96 an up is obd2 but with 95 being that old year wasn't sure

95 is a an “obd 1.5” it uses the same physical port as an obd1, but can give you almost obd2 data.

Technically still obd1 though. I have a 95, had to buy a special obd1 scanner for it.

 

[GarrettGmc]

95 is a an “obd 1.5” it uses the same physical port as an obd1, but can give you almost obd2 data.

Technically still obd1 though. I have a 95, had to buy a special obd1 scanner for it.

Thanks. Found someone who's got a 95 that was told it'll cost *1500* for a new computer to pass smog by their mechanic

 

[Blue Turd]

Thanks. Found someone who's got a 95 that was told it'll cost *1500* for a new computer to pass smog by their mechanic

Sounds like complete bull to me. The only computer on the truck is for engine management. It has nothing to do with emissions. In fact, it doesn’t even know, as the only o2 sensor is before the catalytic converter.

I live in an emissions county, and all 95 and below (up to 25 years old) get a sniffer test at the tailpipe. Obd2 vehicles get the computerized test.

As long as the truck is relatively in tune, and has a decent working catalytic converter, you should pass no problem. A new catalytic converters for these trucks cost like 150-200 bucks.

Now if you live in California (or any state that has adopted their strict emission standards), I am not quite sure. I know they test anything newer than like 1975, regardless of age. They also require that all parts be original and CARB certified.

 

[grampadirt]

Thanks. Found someone who's got a 95 that was told it'll cost *1500* for a new computer to pass smog by their mechanic

$1500? Wow!! I have an extra one I got from a Pick-A-Part here in L.A. for $25.I know it works cuz I've had it on my burb,just had to change the PROM.This one is #16197427,what's yours?

What's wrong with that truck you want to flip?

 

[94burbk1500]

This is definitely a stupid question, but I'm only 27, so give me break. I'm no stranger to turning wrenches but I've never really messed with a car with a distributor before and want to make sure I'm not going to screw up my timing. I bought a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires and am wondering if there's anything i should know about replacing the cap and rotor. As long as I don't move the distributor itself it should just be a direct swap, right?