Suspension overhaul questions and help needed

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glendayle

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OK,
So my truck needs idler and pitman arms replaced as well as needing both inner and outer tie rods.

I've noticed on my passenger side control arm that there is a space where my tire rubs the control arm when I have the wheels turned all the way to the left. I'm not sure if this is related to the issues above or if there is something else.

In addition to this, my 98 extended cab just has "tired" suspension IMO. So what I'm thinking about doing is just replacing everything. Basically steering and suspension wear parts and bushings and probably the strut assemblies as well. My truck is the Z71 with the tow package and came with the Bilstein shocks. As far as shocks go, should I replace them with those same Bilsteins, or is there another strut that is considered preferred. Any suggestions appreciated.

Here are all of the things I'm planning on replacing. Have I missed anything?
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Thanks in advance.
 
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If your truck is stock, I'd say new Bilstiens or any other high quality shock and you'd be good for quite a while. I just did the same thing two weeks ago on my 97. all MOOG FTW! They make amazing parts. The idler arm even comes with a hose that relocates the zerk to the frame so you can lube it easier. You only need one each of the idler and pitman arms. Get two tie rod sleeves, one for each side. same for the swaybar bushings. You really don't need the center link unless yours is bent or the holes are beat. Other than that they don't really go bad. The upper control arm bushing on mine went smoothly, the lowers however, were a !@#$ng pain in the @$$! Make sure you have a 35mm socket if you plan on removing the cv axle nut in the process. Now would be a good time to take a look at cv shafts since you area already taking pretty much everything else apart. If they are beat change em now. No need to dig this deep into your front end twice.
 

glendayle

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OK, thanks for the response. I meant to change the tie rod sleeves to 2. If I only need one of the Idler and Pitman arms then that saves a few bucks. I can't imagine not doing the center link when it's only $30 and I'm doing everything else. I'll have to think on the CV shafts. I guess i'll just have to evaluate if mine are good(which I think they are) because I think the aftermarket CV shafts are suspect at best. I've got a 35mm socket.

what made the lower CA bushings so tough?
 

tsoderstrum

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I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing, let me save you some time, money, and effort. I bought the same ball joints and some meovec upper control arm bushings. Getting the ball joints out isn't really hard but there is some effort there. I didn't have the tools to remove the bushings so I took it to the local machine shop. They pressed the old bushings out but when they tried to press the new ones in the bushing flared a little and when it finally popped in, it wasnt snug. I went on a hunt and found Moog upper control arm assemblies from summit racing for $30 each. The come pre installed with new bushings and balljoijnts. Wish I'd known I could have saved about $20 and hours of effort. I haven't installed them yet but they look pretty good in the box. Just food for thought, here's a link good luck!!

Passenger side http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-rk620719/overview/
Drivers side http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-rk620720/overview/
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing, let me save you some time, money, and effort. I bought the same ball joints and some meovec upper control arm bushings. Getting the ball joints out isn't really hard but there is some effort there. I didn't have the tools to remove the bushings so I took it to the local machine shop. They pressed the old bushings out but when they tried to press the new ones in the bushing flared a little and when it finally popped in, it wasnt snug. I went on a hunt and found Moog upper control arm assemblies from summit racing for $30 each. The come pre installed with new bushings and balljoijnts. Wish I'd known I could have saved about $20 and hours of effort. I haven't installed them yet but they look pretty good in the box. Just food for thought, here's a link good luck!!

Passenger side http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-rk620719/overview/
Drivers side http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-rk620720/overview/

Those complete upper control arms are Moogs cheap budget friendly series. Those control arms do NOT come with the problem solver parts installed on them and only offfer a 3 year warranty. There is also no grease fitting on the ball joint on those control arms so if you plan on keeping your truck for a while then I highly suggest against those control arms.
 

98_k1500

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The center link is just a steel bar, no joints or anything to wear, may want to paint it while its out, but no reason whatsoever to replace it unless the truck was wrecked and its bent or something.
 

glendayle

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Alright, I'll skip the center link. Truck had less than 90k, no accidents.

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tsoderstrum

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Mine came with Balljoints that had zerk fittings in the box. IDK about the quality but, at least for me, this was way better because I only drive about 2500 miles a year in my truck. If the balljoints wear out quickly I'll replace them with some better ones down the road. But that is good input for anyone considering them.
 

glendayle

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I'll probably go all problem solver grade parts. I also only drive a few k miles a year, but I'm just hoping to refresh everything and have it last another 90k/10+ years.


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glendayle

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So new question.

Are the Bilstein's the best option to go with? That's the stock replacement for me. Are there other struts that people prefer? Shocks are one thing that I don't have a lot of experience with. I ordered some KYB GR2s for my Buick which are supposed to be good stock replacements, but I haven't been terribly impressed with them.

As far as the Bilsteins, I'd probably get the 4600 series, but I have some confusion on the part numbers. There are 2 different part numbers for the rear and I can't tell what the difference is.
 
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