Suburban small "lift"

[beardeddummy]

Trying to figure something out. 99 suburban k1500. I want to "lift" it just a little. Got about 1 ¼ to 1 ½ of threads I can crank. Cv axles are fairly straight. No block on rear leafs. Was thinking of adding a 1.5-2 inch block but don't want to go so far I can't crank the front to match. Anyone have any experience or suggestions. Don't really want to go bigger than 2 inches just want it to sit a little better.

Have asked about a 3 inch lift before but didn't find anything that really answered this question. Also posted on the Facebook page

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[Hipster]

Have asked about a 3 inch lift before but didn't find anything that really answered this question. Also posted on the Facebook page

That's because control arm/torsion key kits can create more issues than they solve as far as alignment issues are concerned. Any time ride height is adjusted it changes the alignment settings So that has to be done as well. If the knockouts are still in the UCA mounts they need to be removed at additional cost. To do 1.5-2.0 blocks out back you're looking at cranking 3.0 inches up front to sit level if you don't hit the droop stops first. At that point with that much preload it will ride like an unsprung wagon up front. I mean neck snapping, vertebrae crushing, tossing coffee cups out of the cup holder harsh from going over a speed bump in a parking lot. A shock isn't going to fix that. With or with control arms. doing it this way accelerates front end component wear. Tie rods, ball joints, cv boots can become an annual occurrence. That's the reality.

You posted this question everywhere because you're searching for the answer you want to hear. The question always starts the same "I just want a little" and always end with guys trying to max it out this way, one bandaid another, until they eclipse the cost of a proper 4" inch kit.

In my experience, quite a few individuals here will talk you out of heading down this path.

 

[351FUN]

Yep, it's why mine never got lifted. I'd love a small lift but there's really nothing out there under 4" unless you kill the ride with a key crank.

 

[Hipster]

Yep, it's why mine never got lifted. I'd love a small lift but there's really nothing out there under 4" unless you kill the ride with a key crank.

I cranked mine just a touch to get 285's on it, maybe 1.25" and that stiffened up the ride more than I wanted it to. Yours looks cranked a wee bit too. If that's as far as he wanted to go as far as leveling it a bit, I'd say go for it and get an alignment, but he's talking about level after rear blocks. My truck sat pretty low in the front to begin with, looked like a 2wd, at a little over 2 inches I was on the droop stops, so 3 inches would not have been remotely do-able without hacking the frame.

 

[Spareparts]

I leveled my suburban with cranking and i think it rides fine but maybe it was sagging when i got it? Anyway its level now and rides fine.

 

[beardeddummy]

That's because control arm/torsion key kits can create more issues than they solve as far as alignment issues are concerned. Any time ride height is adjusted it changes the alignment settings So that has to be done as well. If the knockouts are still in the UCA mounts they need to be removed at additional cost. To do 1.5-2.0 blocks out back you're looking at cranking 3.0 inches up front to sit level if you don't hit the droop stops first. At that point with that much preload it will ride like an unsprung wagon up front. I mean neck snapping, vertebrae crushing, tossing coffee cups out of the cup holder harsh from going over a speed bump in a parking lot. A shock isn't going to fix that. With or with control arms. doing it this way accelerates front end component wear. Tie rods, ball joints, cv boots can become an annual occurrence. That's the reality.

You posted this question everywhere because you're searching for the answer you want to hear. The question always starts the same "I just want a little" and always end with guys trying to max it out this way, one bandaid another, until they eclipse the cost of a proper 4" inch kit.

In my experience, quite a few individuals here will talk you out of heading down this path.

A 4 inch lift will not work for me. I don't want a lifted rig I just want to gain a little more. A 6 inch and 35s would look great but it's just not practical for me. I'm on the road too much. Problem is I'm off the beaten path quite a bit too. I'm not looking for the answer I want to hear I'm looking for the answer but what I'm hearing is my options are 4 inch lift or rough ride and accelerated wear?

 

[Hipster]

I leveled my suburban with cranking and i think it rides fine but maybe it was sagging when i got it? Anyway its level now and rides fine.

On a 2500 you might not notice a bit of difference in the stiffness of the ride.

 

[Hipster]

A 4 inch lift will not work for me. I don't want a lifted rig I just want to gain a little more. A 6 inch and 35s would look great but it's just not practical for me. I'm on the road too much. Problem is I'm off the beaten path quite a bit too. I'm not looking for the answer I want to hear I'm looking for the answer but what I'm hearing is my options are 4 inch lift or rough ride and accelerated wear?

If you want three inches you're better off with 4 and getting away from the known issues doing it that way. There is one gentleman on this site that was so happy with his Rough Country control arm/key kit he wanted to start a class action lawsuit along with the others that were having the same issues. In my case 3 inches of cranking wasn't going to happen, and launching cups out of the drink holder trying to get there is not a joke.

This is the way it plays out, first crank stock keys trying to get 3 inches, unbearable ride, control arms/keys next, still can't get alignment correct with knockouts removed still harsh ride, next, offset control arm bushings which might or probably not result in a satisfactory alignment. Then you start asking what shocks you need to correct ride quality which there is none on the market that will correct for almost zero compression and 100% rebound due the pre-load you cranked in. In the meantime, you're blowing through cv boots one after the other. You're not the first person that has attempted this and won't be the last. Then next guy that comes along always thinks he's got it figured out and ends up in the exact same place.

If you wanted to crank the front a bit to level it and get an alignment is one thing, forget about rear blocks. But, that is not what you asked. No matter how you define what it is that you do or don't want doesn't make your plan a good one. Nobody said you need a 6 inch kit and 35's.

At the end of the day, ultimately, you'll pick your poison or re-define your wants, needs, goals, and expectations. If you do a lot of miles you might not want something that rides like a buck board.

 

[Hipster]

duplicate

 

[351FUN]

I cranked mine just a touch to get 285's on it, maybe 1.25" and that stiffened up the ride more than I wanted it to. Yours looks cranked a wee bit too. If that's as far as he wanted to go as far as leveling it a bit, I'd say go for it and get an alignment, but he's talking about level after rear blocks. My truck sat pretty low in the front to begin with, looked like a 2wd, at a little over 2 inches I was on the droop stops, so 3 inches would not have been remotely do-able without hacking the frame.

It's possible that it is, the guy I bought it from had it aligned and cranked down to spec (it was a friend so no reason to bs) but it's running 285's without any rub.