Spyder headlamps.....my take on 'em...and LIGHTING in general

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

shovelbill

Oh, the horror...
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
2,304
Reaction score
2,108
Location
Upstate NY via Zoo Yawk Shhitty
It's you guys fault!!! I spent about $125 at LMC truck web sight, and I learned something while I was there too. I ordered myself a wiring harness to pull power from the battery instead of the OEM harness; the thing I learned was my sons 2000 Yukon SLT takes exactly the same harness according to their sight. I had him compare so I wouldn't screw it up somehow.

While I was there I picked up a bed spare tire mount, and the nuts that hold the GMC logo on the grill, my isn't tight and won't stay tight, without going out to look I think it has at least a nut or two missing. So once it get here, then I will be waiting for warm weather.

the thing with LMC is you might as well order a few things, they'll charge you like $12 for 1 screw or a bunch of stuff....and they're usually not inexpensive for parts, but sometimes the only game in town.

i'll hold some of that blame, i have one good shoulder to carry it on........LMAO
 

shovelbill

Oh, the horror...
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
2,304
Reaction score
2,108
Location
Upstate NY via Zoo Yawk Shhitty
" Render in-operable critical mandatory safety equipment. "

that's pretty much what Dan Stern said about the Spyders....."they need to go away" is what he wrote.....he's certainly not an advocate of GM's 150X92 size lamps....or ANY aftermarket "composite" lights for these trucks...W/T grill swap is the only way in his mind to upgrade these trucks. he said that to me when he finally replied to my first query....we already had a harness at that point.

i'll not argue with his genius or expertise, i rather like and respect him......but i'm quite happy with our results. i'm waiting for a response to my wish for a set of those Brazilian Artebs too.....curious about that.

i had another round of mails with him last night, waiting on a reply to what i sent him last.....i'm waiting for a retort to the video i sent him......and to see if he has some lenses for 2 of my bikes.....he DOES have a few sets of the bulb holders for the Oscar Pluses, which i ant to buy.........what was that old Heinz ketchup commercial......anticipation?
 

n8pu

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 7, 2016
Messages
168
Reaction score
160
Location
Michigan
Just FYI, LMC's emblem/corner light nuts are a little bit bigger than the factory ones, and don't grip as well in my experience. The factory ones are a lot better. They just grab onto smooth plastic studs on the back of the emblem, there's only two of them. If yours just spin then chances are someone has over-tightened them and stripped the plastic. You might need a new emblem instead of the new nuts.

The nuts were less than a dollar, so if they are a little big I'm not out much.
 

df2x4

4L60E Destroyer
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
11,224
Reaction score
12,881
Location
Missouri
The nuts were less than a dollar, so if they are a little big I'm not out much.

Absolutely! Just figured I'd share my experience since I've had them side by side with factory ones to compare. You would think they'd be identical, but not quite. The LMC ones are bronze colored, and the factory ones are regular looking steel(or maybe aluminum).
 

n8pu

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 7, 2016
Messages
168
Reaction score
160
Location
Michigan
that's pretty much what Dan Stern said about the Spyders....."they need to go away" is what he wrote.....he's certainly not an advocate of GM's 150X92 size lamps....or ANY aftermarket "composite" lights for these trucks...W/T grill swap is the only way in his mind to upgrade these trucks. he said that to me when he finally replied to my first query....we already had a harness at that point.

i'll not argue with his genius or expertise, i rather like and respect him......but i'm quite happy with our results. i'm waiting for a response to my wish for a set of those Brazilian Artebs too.....curious about that.

i had another round of mails with him last night, waiting on a reply to what i sent him last.....i'm waiting for a retort to the video i sent him......and to see if he has some lenses for 2 of my bikes.....he DOES have a few sets of the bulb holders for the Oscar Pluses, which i ant to buy.........what was that old Heinz ketchup commercial......anticipation?

I'm not going to try to argue with he expertise either, BUT, these Spyders are what I have on my vehicle and they are worlds better than the OME that was on there, maybe someday when I see something better AND I am wanting to upgrade the headlight assembly then I'll check out what is 'out there' then. But for now I'm happy with what I've got.
 

df2x4

4L60E Destroyer
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
11,224
Reaction score
12,881
Location
Missouri
that's pretty much what Dan Stern said about the Spyders....."they need to go away" is what he wrote.....he's certainly not an advocate of GM's 150X92 size lamps....or ANY aftermarket "composite" lights for these trucks...W/T grill swap is the only way in his mind to upgrade these trucks. he said that to me when he finally replied to my first query....we already had a harness at that point.

i'll not argue with his genius or expertise, i rather like and respect him......but i'm quite happy with our results. i'm waiting for a response to my wish for a set of those Brazilian Artebs too.....curious about that.

i had another round of mails with him last night, waiting on a reply to what i sent him last.....i'm waiting for a retort to the video i sent him......and to see if he has some lenses for 2 of my bikes.....he DOES have a few sets of the bulb holders for the Oscar Pluses, which i ant to buy.........what was that old Heinz ketchup commercial......anticipation?

I definitely understand why he says what he says. W/T grille swap would be the way to go if you were really serious about upgrading. Simply because you could use the TruckLite LED housings. However the Spyders you have and my Anzos seem to work reasonably well, and for a whole lot less money than the grille swap and $350 worth of headlights!

What we've been working towards in this thread may not be the absolute best solution for these trucks, but I feel like it's about as good as you can get without a W/T grille.
 

shovelbill

Oh, the horror...
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
2,304
Reaction score
2,108
Location
Upstate NY via Zoo Yawk Shhitty
i'm gather my thoughts while i eat to bring up the topic about "cheap" aftermarket assemblies....and Mr. Stern's view of them.

here's some information from his site to peruse....

Fog lamps of any type should not be used in dry weather. Leaving the fog lamps on at all times does not actually improve the lighting safety performance or the driver's ability to see, though many people do so in the mistaken belief that they can see better this way at normal road speeds in dry weather. In fact, a systematic study done by one of North America's preëminent traffic safety research institutes shows that in the United States more people inappropriately use their front fog lamps in dry weather than use them properly in poor weather.

I BELIEVE THIS SECTION IS THE MAIN REASON...and from what i've read on the candlepower forum as well....Bill

Why? Because we human beings generally can't accurately tell how well or how poorly we see. We have subjective impressions, reactions, and feelings about how "good" or "bad" our headlamps are, and they feel very real to us, but they're very far out of line with the objective, measurable, real lighting performance and seeing ability. It's not that we're fooling ourselves, it's that our visual systems just aren't equipped to correctly assess how well or how poorly we can see. The primary driver for a subjective impression of "good" headlighting is foreground light—and remember, that's what fog lamps produce—but foreground light is very far down the list of factors that go into the actual, real safety performance of the car's lighting system; that is, how well it actually lets the driver see what must be seen to avoid a crash. In clear conditions, though it makes us feel (falsely) more secure, more foreground light is not a good thing, it's a bad thing. Of course, some foreground light is necessary so you can use your peripheral vision to see where you are relative to the road edges, the lane markings and that pothole 20 feet in front of your left wheels.

But foreground light is far less safety-critical than light cast well down the road into the distance, because at any significant speed (much above 25 mph), what's in the foreground is too close for you to do much about. That is, at normal road speeds, whatever is close enough to be within the foreground light is too close for you to avoid hitting. If you increase the foreground light (such as by turning on the fog lamps), your pupils react to the brighter pool of foreground light by constricting, which in turn substantially reduces your distance vision—especially since there's no increase in down-the-road distance light to go along with the increased foreground light. This is also the reason why it is not appropriate to have fog lamps lit with the high beam headlamps: if you're going fast enough to need high beams, you definitely don't want to spoil your distance vision by overly lighting the foreground.


So all in all, when we use front fog lamps inappropriately, we feel like our seeing is better than it really is and we unconsciously adjust our driving to match how safe we feel. That, in turn, makes us less safe!

In the past, many US-specification low beam headlamps tended to provide relatively low, arguably inadequate levels of light in the foreground and to the sides. They created the impression of a "black hole" in front of the car, with essentially the entire beam concentrated in a narrow band or ball of light thrown into the distance. With headlamps like these, a decent argument can be made for the use of fog lamps to fill the "black hole", that is, to add-back the missing foreground and lateral-spread light when driving at moderate speeds on dark and/or twisty roads. Of course, lamps to rectify inadequate foreground light must be thoughtfully and carefully selected, correctly aimed and properly used. Otherwise, they're useless at best and dangerous at worst.

So, what is a good fog lamp? A good fog lamp produces a wide, bar-shaped beam of light with a sharp horizontal cutoff (dark above, bright below) at the top of the beam, and minimal upward light above the cutoff. Almost all factory-installed or dealer-optional fog lamps, and a great many aftermarket units, are essentially useless for any purpose, especially for extremely demanding poor-weather driving. Many of them are too small to produce enough light to make a difference, produce beam patterns too narrow to help, lack a sufficiently-sharp cutoff, and throw too much glare light into the eyes of other drivers, no matter how they're aimed.

Good (and legal) fog lamps may produce white or Selective Yellow light—it is the beam pattern, not the light colour, that defines a fog lamp—and most of them use tungsten-halogen bulbs though there are some legitimate (and a lot of illegitimate) LED fog lamps beginning to appear. Xenon or HID bulbs are inherently unsuitable for use in fog lamps, and blue or other-colored lights are also the wrong choice.

The fog lamps' job is to show you the edges of the road, the lane markings, and the immediate foreground. When used in combination with the headlamps, good fog lamps weight the overall beam pattern towards the foreground so that even though there may be a relatively high level of upward stray light from the headlamps causing glareback from the fog or falling rain or snow, there will be more foreground light than usual without a corresponding increase in upward stray light, giving back some of the vision you lose to precipitation.

When used without headlamps in conditions of extremely poor visibility due to snow, fog or heavy rain, good fog lamps light the foreground and the road edges only, so you can see your way safely at reduced speeds.

In some places, the law prohibits the use of fog lamps without the low beam headlamps also being on. Whether or not this is the case where you drive, it's vital to realize that fog lamp beams, by definition, have a much shorter reach than headlamp beams. If you drive in conditions foul enough to call for the use of fog lamps without headlamps, it's essential to have good fog lamps that are up to the task and are properly aimed, and it's even more imperative that you slow down because even with high-performance fog lamps, you can't see as far with fog lamps and in poor weather as you can with headlamps and in clear weather.

If the road is wet or slick with ice, but there's no falling precipitation or fog, fog lamps should be used with discretion. Their extra downward light can help compensate for the tendency of water to "soak up" the light on the road from your headlamps. But, this extra downward light hitting a road surface shiny with water or ice will also create high levels of reflected glare for other drivers. Since we're all "other drivers" to everybody else on the road, it's well to think of roadway safety as a cooperative effort. In most driving situations, fog lamps are neither useful nor necessary, but—back to that study linked above—more people use their fog lamps when the prevailing conditions don't call for their use, than use them when the conditions do call for their use. Fact is, it's not helping you, and nobody thinks your car is cool because it has fog lamps, and glare is dangerous, so do yourself and everyone a favor: choose them carefully, aim them properly, use them thoughtfully and sparingly, and leave them off except when they're genuinely necessary.
 

shovelbill

Oh, the horror...
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
2,304
Reaction score
2,108
Location
Upstate NY via Zoo Yawk Shhitty
I definitely understand why he says what he says. W/T grille swap would be the way to go if you were really serious about upgrading. Simply because you could use the TruckLite LED housings. However the Spyders you have and my Anzos seem to work reasonably well, and for a whole lot less money than the grille swap and $350 worth of headlights!

What we've been working towards in this thread may not be the absolute best solution for these trucks, but I feel like it's about as good as you can get without a W/T grille.

i agree...told him as much....and i won't put LED's on the front of my truck....PERIOD. i don't like them.

i've read the same things on the other forum...lighting "SCIENTISTS" they are too.....i consider myself to be quite an objective person. i can go beyond what i feel (subjective) to seek the truth.....not make a "truth" based on the amount of work or money invested in a decision......i can't argue photo-metrics and my own ocular motor system...i can understand it reading it, but can't say with good conscience "i guess they're right, rip it all out, i'm really NOT able to the sides of the road, the end of my low beams and beyond because my brain is fooled and these 'trinkets' are actually worst than the OEM lamps". i don't believe it to be my ego either.

you've seen these before...please watch them again and tell me what i'm missing please.

this IS what i see...the camera captures THIS view almost perfectly. that's not embellishing anything.
VIDEO...CLICK ON IT.
You must be registered for see images attach


this too (disregard what i SAY the bulbs are, my brain sucks)
VIDEO...CLICK ON IT
You must be registered for see images attach




i guess i just CAN"T see what they're saying i THINK i see....i don't know any other way to put it but "ican see much better than before i did this upgrade"....tho they consider it actually a DOWNGRADE.....that actually baffles me.
 
Last edited:

shovelbill

Oh, the horror...
Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
2,304
Reaction score
2,108
Location
Upstate NY via Zoo Yawk Shhitty
I definitely understand why he says what he says. W/T grille swap would be the way to go if you were really serious about upgrading. Simply because you could use the TruckLite LED housings. However the Spyders you have and my Anzos seem to work reasonably well, and for a whole lot less money than the grille swap and $350 worth of headlights!

What we've been working towards in this thread may not be the absolute best solution for these trucks, but I feel like it's about as good as you can get without a W/T grille.

well...."serious" means different things to different people......

back in 1986 i don't remember anyone telling me to switch to the large 200X165mm headlights for a SERIOUS upgrade.....i had the 165X100mm quad setup. before that all i had were 200mm round headlights....except for the 1980 Silverado setup i swapped to. i don't remember any difference betwixt the big round or the big rectangle.

i actually think it's mostly about the ****** teenie tiny SIZE of the lamps.....and ****** aftermarket ones are way worse than GM's version of the teenie tiny composites.

i wonder why the Australian folks didn't put the 200mm assemblies in the ambulances as opposed to the Bosch e-codes and those 4" round quads from the Holden car......THAT i find interesting.....it's not like those werent available all over the world when they started importing them in '95 through '02......curiouser and curiouser.....LOL. you would think they would have lighting specialists on that big island, huh?

i KNOW some of those aftermarket assemblies are ABSOLUTE ****....ask Curt about his......i wonder if any these gents ever drove behind a decent set of the "composites". and i'm certainly not trying to sound justified and insulted, that's not the tone i have.....it's an honest question.
 
Top