Rebuilding front end parts

[bigwavedave]

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
1995 CHEVROLET K1500 PICKUP 5.7L 350cid V8 TBI (K) OHV
MOOG ES2838RL Tie Rod End $ 35.99 2 $ 71.98
MOOG K6335 Pitman Arm $ 38.79 1 $ 38.79
MOOG DS1407 Center Link $ 40.79 1 $ 40.79
MOOG K6292 Ball Joint $ 27.99 2 $ 55.98
MOOG ES2836RL Tie Rod End $ 35.79 2 $ 71.58
MOOG K6447 Idler Arm $ 56.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 56.79
MOOG ES2004S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve $ 10.55 2 $ 21.10
MOOG K80631 Stabilizer Bar Link $ 14.62 1 $ 14.62
MOOG K6291 Ball Joint $ 34.99 2 $ 69.98

Just ordered all this from rock auto....Gonna be a fun next weekend.

 

[dirtridinz71]

Gonna be a fun next weekend.

Say that after you are done
Atleast it is much easier when doing it all at once. Plus it feels that much better handling afterwards.

Looks like you have everything, should also check your wheel bearings too and CV's too if $$$ allows. Will have to work with them to do the ball joints.

 

[bigwavedave]

CVs are solid, might do bearings as well....

 

[Hodges87]

I rebuilt my front end with everything moog like you ordered, and I had my steering gear box rebuilt by West Texas Offroad. My steering is awesome! You will defiantly need a pickle fork and a BFH (Big Fu*king Hammer). Its not to bad to do though.

 

[Swims350]

don't forget a pitman arm puller too.

If you have press in lowers you'll want a press tool to make it easy, if not you can get by with a BFH and such but it'll take awhile.

Top ones if stock and riveted you need a grinder, cut off tool or air chisel, makes it alot easier.

Another tip, which is what I done on dad's 84, take the tie rods off together with the sleeves, then screw the new tie rods into the new sleeves and make them the same length as the old ones, that gets your alignment very close for the shop to set for you. That way it's not acting up on your way to the shop, you could actually drive it instead of tow it. I did dad's that way and it has no squeal around tight corners or anything, he just wants to have it checked to be sure.

 

[bigwavedave]

I have access to all the tools you mentioned, and the ball joints were replaced once before so they are just bolted in so should be pretty easy. I am hitting my oil pan gasket at the same time cause it started leaking too....That is another decent job which involves well, dropping the front diff.

I should get my steering box rebuilt, that is an awesome idea. and Hodges, you have my trucks twin!

 

[Swims350]

you can't drop the pan with the diff. in place? if not I'd consider lifting the engine up, just undo the motor mount bolts and raise it some.

 

[DRAGGIN95]

You will really like how much tighter the truck will feel!

 

[Hodges87]

I have access to all the tools you mentioned, and the ball joints were replaced once before so they are just bolted in so should be pretty easy. I am hitting my oil pan gasket at the same time cause it started leaking too....That is another decent job which involves well, dropping the front diff.

I should get my steering box rebuilt, that is an awesome idea. and Hodges, you have my trucks twin!

Sweet! You'll have to post a pic. I also started using Mobil 1 Chassis grease. About the oil pan gasket Felpro make a one piece gasket that works great

 

[Swims350]

x2 get the one piece one, summit has their own brand in a one piece thats cheaper too.