Preparing for road trip, any suggested maintenance?

[Mule89]

If you have an engine oil cooler (most of the 4wd trucks do but sometimes I get a surprise that one is not there) but they gave me problems and can often leak. I deleted mine because I believe that on high mileage engines it isn't very good to have the factory cooler setup because usually you see a bump in oil pressure when you delete them. But this is my personal experience with these trucks too.

 

[94burbk1500]

One assumes that
1. The coolant was flushed with the rad replacement.
2. The brake fluid was flushed with the brake work.
3. The front suspension/steering system was aligned with the tie rods and tires, and that all the other wear points were inspected and found to be usable.
4. Compression test with the new spark plugs?
5. Idler pulley and bearing still good when the belt was installed? Common problem.

6. Check/change front differential grease. Doesn't hold much, a leak will empty the system quickly. WHAT IS SMOKING?


Dead easy if all you do is drop the pan, slap a filter in it, clean the pan and reinstall with a fresh gasket. Most guys DO NOT change the seal where the filter plugs into the transmission. Changing the seal is a pain.

Given a choice, once the filter and pan is back on, I fill the pan with 5 quarts of fluid, open five more. Remove the upper cooler tube at the radiator, and install a temporary tube that leads to a drain pan. You can get bulk tube at an auto-parts store.

Have a helper start the engine as you start pouring more fluid down the dipstick tube. Drop the quarts in as fast as it'll take them. Watch the color of the fluid coming out the temporary tube--when it's fresh, clean, cherry-red, shut off the engine.

Remove the temporary tube, reconnect the regular cooler tube. Start engine, check fluid level, add as needed. You've now changed the fluid in the pan AND the torque converter, AND the cooler. You can about count on 10 quarts of fluid, perhaps more.


Good plan. Check the U-bolts on the rear axle. Mine were rusted down to the thickness of a pencil just above the plate--about half-an-inch above the nuts.


Check both oil pressure sending units. I don't know about '94, but my '88 has two sending units, one above the oil filter assembly, that drives the dash gauge, and another beside the distributor that is a "fail-safe" electrical bypass for the fuel pump relay. Either can leak, but the one by the oil filter seems especially troublesome. If yours is a fist-size gold-colored canister, (possibly inside a black-metal heat shield) watch it like a hawk.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to flush the power steering fluid.
Check for grease zerks on both driveshafts.
Change fluid in the transfer case?
Verify ignition timing.

1. Coolant was flushed
2. Brake fluid was flushed
3. Alignment was done
4. Haven't done a compression check, but she runs smoother than before the tune up kit
5. They seemed to be ok, something likes to squeal when its cold, but it goes away after a few minutes of driving, doesn't happen when outside temp is above 50 degrees
6.I'll add it to the list. When in 4wd and driven at highway speeds, the CV axles themselves appeared to be smoking when i got out of the truck, could be steam considering it was cold and wet, smelled like old grease. I rarely use 4wd and have no intention of using it on my trip, but why ignore a problem when I know it exists?

Thanks for the steps on draining the transmission fluid. I might as well replace all fluids at this point. I greased everything with a zerk fitting that i could find about a month ago, I'll make sure the driveshafts were included.

I appreciate the input!

 

[94burbk1500]

If you have an engine oil cooler (most of the 4wd trucks do but sometimes I get a surprise that one is not there) but they gave me problems and can often leak. I deleted mine because I believe that on high mileage engines it isn't very good to have the factory cooler setup because usually you see a bump in oil pressure when you delete them. But this is my personal experience with these trucks too.

I have an oil cooler, it's not the source of the leak. I see a few drops of oil on the ground underneath the engine when I let it heat up then park it. Once it cools down, the leak seems to subside. It's such a small amount and the engine bay is grimy enough that I can't easily see where it is coming from.

 

[Biggershaft96]

I would grab an ir thermometer also and check the tire, axle, tcase, trans, brake, u-joint temps on gas stops. Other than that just make sure fluids are good, brakes have plenty of meat left, and make sure there isnt any suspension components that are worn out.

 

[94burbk1500]

I would grab an ir thermometer also and check the tire, axle, tcase, trans, brake, u-joint temps on gas stops. Other than that just make sure fluids are good, brakes have plenty of meat left, and make sure there isnt any suspension components that are worn out.

Thanks, the thermometer isn't a bad idea. I just replaced the brakes all the way around, calipers, rotors, pads, drums, shoes, adjusters, hardware, wheel cylinders, and replaced 3 rusty brake lines, if there isn't plenty of meat left after 2400 miles, I've got some serious issues. lol

 

[Biggershaft96]

Thanks, the thermometer isn't a bad idea. I just replaced the brakes all the way around, calipers, rotors, pads, drums, shoes, adjusters, hardware, wheel cylinders, and replaced 3 rusty brake lines, if there isn't plenty of meat left after 2400 miles, I've got some serious issues. lol

Never know. If a caliper starts getting sticky on the trip youll be able to catch it with the temp gun hopefully before it sticks.

 

[94burbk1500]

Never know. If a caliper starts getting sticky on the trip youll be able to catch it with the temp gun hopefully before it sticks.

That's fair, to be honest I expect something to break, I just hope it's nothing serious.

 

[ima93chevyguy]

What shape are your gaskets in? Intake, valve covers..? That much driving could put some stress on those.

Also condition of water pump..? Wouldn't want it to blow out and those are cheap and easy to install.

 

[superdave]

You guys sound like a bunch of old women. Watch an episode or 2 of Roadkill and grow a pair. You don't have to replace every part on a vehicle. Check stuff out and fix an obvious problem, which it sounds like you have done.

I have repaired my items as needed and done the normal PM stuff (cooling system, brakes, fluids, etc), which you have done. I'd get in my 97 with 210k miles and drive cross country with no qualms.

 

[94burbk1500]

You guys sound like a bunch of old women. Watch an episode or 2 of Roadkill and grow a pair. You don't have to replace every part on a vehicle. Check stuff out and fix an obvious problem, which it sounds like you have done.

I have repaired my items as needed and done the normal PM stuff (cooling system, brakes, fluids, etc), which you have done. I'd get in my 97 with 210k miles and drive cross country with no qualms.

You're probably right, but I will never hear the end of it from my wife if the suburban breaks down on our way to our friends' wedding.