Changed oil and filter
Replaced radiator (old one leaked)
Replaced fuel pump (bad float)
New fuel filter
Full brake job, front and back, including calipers and wheel cylinders
New tires
New tie rods
Replaced rusted brake lines
New cap, rotor, plugs, and wires
New air filter
New serpentine belt
Greased all fittings I could find
Cv axles will be done soon (cracked boots, smokes when in 4wd)
One assumes that
1. The coolant was flushed with the rad replacement.
2. The brake fluid was flushed with the brake work.
3. The front suspension/steering system was aligned with the tie rods and tires, and that all the other wear points were inspected and found to be usable.
4. Compression test with the new spark plugs?
5. Idler pulley and bearing still good when the belt was installed? Common problem.
6. Check/change front differential grease. Doesn't hold much, a leak will empty the system quickly. WHAT IS SMOKING?
How difficult is it to do on these trucks? I'm pretty sure I have the 4l60e or whatever its called
Dead easy if all you do is drop the pan, slap a filter in it, clean the pan and reinstall with a fresh gasket. Most guys DO NOT change the seal where the filter plugs into the transmission. Changing the seal is a pain.
Given a choice, once the filter and pan is back on, I fill the pan with 5 quarts of fluid, open five more. Remove the upper cooler tube at the radiator, and install a temporary tube that leads to a drain pan. You can get bulk tube at an auto-parts store.
Have a helper start the engine as you start pouring more fluid down the dipstick tube. Drop the quarts in as fast as it'll take them. Watch the color of the fluid coming out the temporary tube--when it's fresh, clean, cherry-red, shut off the engine.
Remove the temporary tube, reconnect the regular cooler tube. Start engine, check fluid level, add as needed. You've now changed the fluid in the pan AND the torque converter, AND the cooler. You can about count on 10 quarts of fluid, perhaps more.
Now that I think about it, I think I'm gonna change the grease in the rear diff while I'm at it.
Good plan. Check the U-bolts on the rear axle. Mine were rusted down to the thickness of a pencil just above the plate--about half-an-inch above the nuts.
Mine has a small oil leak I haven't tracked down yet but I'll be bringing plenty of oil.
Check both oil pressure sending units. I don't know about '94, but my '88 has two sending units, one above the oil filter assembly, that drives the dash gauge, and another beside the distributor that is a "fail-safe" electrical bypass for the fuel pump relay. Either can leak, but the one by the oil filter seems especially troublesome. If yours is a fist-size gold-colored canister, (possibly inside a black-metal heat shield) watch it like a hawk.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to flush the power steering fluid.
Check for grease zerks on both driveshafts.
Change fluid in the transfer case?
Verify ignition timing.
