Oil leak, but not where I thought the leak was

[Jake21burnett]

I had a leak down there that defied logic, they replaced the pan gasket, and tried everything they could think of short of replacing the rear main seal. So being such a shade tree guy I thought Il get under there for a look see, nothing. Let it go for a while but leaks REALLY bug me. even went so far as to buy that Blue Devil Rear main sealer as I thought it had to be that seal. But I kept checking and it turned out to be that someone has painted the block before I had the truck and they got paint on the sealing rim of the block where the filter seats, and it was coming off in places, cleaned it real good and no more leak.
Also had the tailshaft seal keep leaking, finally figured out it was the drive shaft was too long ( from being lowered I guess) so shortened it and put new seal, no more leak. Sometimes its weird stuff like that
Bobby V

Sounds like your mechanic sucks. At least you found resolution

 

[Jake21burnett]

Sounds like your mechanic sucks. At least you found resolution

Lol or whoever thought painting the block before making sure everything working properly is an ass

 

[Pinger]

Thanks guys. I guess I will go ahead and put the rear seal in. Any tips on the oil pan gasket. looks like the pan should have plenty of room to come out with the back end off the engine.

Looks like i need to check out intake gasket too.

I used Felpro and followed the instructions to the letter. Somewhere (Haynes?) suggests rotating the crank to a particular position. Presumably for clearance for the forward part of the oil pan as it is drawn backward and down for removal (to clear the cross-member. The oil pan's corners are secured by studs (not bolts as elesewhere) and need to be removed for the installation dowels. The studs have Torx type ends to aid removal. Remove the dipstick before you start.

Pretty sure pan on a 2wd just comes right out

It does. Easier if the oil cooler lines are moved out of the way. I managed without doing this but it was awkward and a race against time for the sealant (on the gasket corners) and made using some of the installation/location dowels impossible.
I swerved moving them as I didn't want disturb the external connections but I think the entire block they mount to can be dropped. With the filter off, there are Allen bolts that secure it to the block.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Somewhere (Haynes?) suggests rotating the crank to a particular position. Presumably for clearance for the forward part of the oil pan as it is drawn backward and down for removal (to clear the cross-member.

When I replaced my pan last weekend I had to turn the engine to get the front edge of the pan past the #1 and #2 crank counterweights.

 

[delta_p]

I put the Felpro seal in today, and took down the oil pan. Went ahead and put a new seal retainer gasket on as well. The old seal came out pretty easy and lip looked good, i could still see the directors for sending the oil back.

I pressed the new seal into the retainer at the bench dry with no lube like the instructions said. The ID of the seal came on a plastic tool for fitting over the crankshaft and allowing the lip to slide off and onto the shaft. I was able to push the seal/retainer assembly off by hand onto the crankshaft.

I think the leak was coming from the oil pan corners. I get this pan back on and i am back to putting it together. Kind of tired of smelling like road.

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[Tiny Trucker]

Watching with interest. Can the oil pan gasket be replaced without removing the gearbox?

Not sure where my leak is coming from, but it is leaking a lot.

Also if I have a wet patch around my PC valve, would this mean its blocked? I wonder if that is not helping with blow by and making the leak out the bottom worse.

I have no leaks from my intake.

 

[Pinger]

Watching with interest. Can the oil pan gasket be replaced without removing the gearbox?
.

Yes.
Haynes says remove the steel torque convertor cover (four bolts) but as that would have entailed disconnecting an exhaust downpipe I merely removed the bolts and moved the cover enough to access the oil pan bolts at the rear corners.
Removing it would have made the job easier - assuming the exhausts co-operated that is.

 

[Pinger]

When I replaced my pan last weekend I had to turn the engine to get the front edge of the pan past the #1 and #2 crank counterweights.

Had another look at Haynes and it says 'turn the crank until the timing mark on the balancer is at the bottom'.

 

[delta_p]

Had another look at Haynes and it says 'turn the crank until the timing mark on the balancer is at the bottom'.

That's what I did and pan came right out. Getting the old gasket out was the hard part. Can the new gasket be pressed into the U-channels on the ends and on the end studs to hold in place to put the pan on?

 

[Pinger]

That's what I did and pan came right out. Getting the old gasket out was the hard part. Can the new gasket be pressed into the U-channels on the ends and on the end studs to hold in place to put the pan on?

If you get the Felpro gasket.... there will be four plastic dowels with tangs that screw into where the corner studs are currently. Sealant applied to the gasket corners and said dowels then hold the gasket in place while the oil pan is being manipulated into place.
The gasket kind of hangs there but once the oil pan is lined up with the plastic dowels and then raised, it all sorts itself out. Once you have secured it well enough with a few bolts, remove the plastic dowels at the corners and reinstate the steel studs. Just take care with the dowels so as not to snap any and them be left in the block needing the threaded part removed.
Remember also sealant is required to seal the pan to the timing cover.