Oil coming from intake manifold bolts

[TheAutumnWind]

Those were already there when I bought it. Those "goofy ass wire nuts" are byfar the best thing they did to this truck before I got it, and they're the farthest thing from my mind as far as getting this thing back to normal functioning operation again.

Those wire nuts are not for automotive use. Those are for house wiring. Crimped connectors or solder and heat shrink is how it should be done.

 

[Dennis Wilkie]

Those wire nuts are not for automotive use. Those are for house wiring. Crimped connectors or solder and heat shrink is how it should be done.

If you had read the previous comments, you'd know that wire nuts are literally the last thing i'm worried about on this truck. They could've been wrapped with wet toilet paper for all I care at this point. I didn't put them there, and i've got way bigger issues that a wire nut.

 

[Schurkey]

Yeah, I already tried the OBD1/OBD2 route and it cost me almost $200 for something I was told was compatible, but ended up not. I really wish it would've worked though. I could've been done with all the tbi issues by now.

I looked at the Foxwell website, and found a unit that looks like yours.
https://www.foxwelltech.us/product-detail-606.html

The web-site is scary, clearly Chinese with bad translations and poor spelling. They even offer, on another page, to falsify Customs documents to "help with shipping", i.e., reduce customs fees.

Anyway, they claim the thing is compatible with OBD-I and II. I don't see any OBD-I adapters included with the thing. They do offer a user-manual "update" as a download. I didn't look at any of that.

Might be worth your time to contact 'em, jack 'em up, and see if they can get your tool working.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

If you had read the previous comments, you'd know that wire nuts are literally the last thing i'm worried about on this truck. They could've been wrapped with wet toilet paper for all I care at this point. I didn't put them there, and i've got way bigger issues that a wire nut.

I understand. Just letting you know. They can cause voltage drop. They are not very vibration resistant. It would take like 5 minutes to crimp them.

 

[Dennis Wilkie]

Yeah, I'm not a big fan of em, even for stereo use. But I've got to figure out alot of other things before I can get into the wiring any more than I already have...and I've done almost of that already

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[gary locklin]

Yeah, I'm not a big fan of em, even for stereo use. But I've got to figure out alot of other things before I can get into the wiring any more than I already have...and I've done almost of that already

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[gary locklin]

Yeah, I'm not a big fan of em, even for stereo use. But I've got to figure out alot of other things before I can get into the wiring any more than I already have...and I've done almost of that already

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Just have to ask, did you take the firewall bulkhead loose to get uour dash out. I cut the one at the junk yard. Cant find a way to get old one out without destroying my wiring harness

 

[Dennis Wilkie]

Just have to ask, did you take the firewall bulkhead loose to get uour dash out. I cut the one at the junk yard. Cant find a way to get old one out without destroying my wiring harness

Man, I honestly don't even remember. I did all of that at the beginning of the summer, but this thread might be able to help you. https://chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/116955/

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Just have to ask, did you take the firewall bulkhead loose to get uour dash out. I cut the one at the junk yard. Cant find a way to get old one out without destroying my wiring harness

You can remove the dash assembly without removing the wiring harness. This how to remove the 1988 to 1994 dash.
Remove all of the trim bezels for the instrument cluster, radio ,etc.
Remove the instrument cluster and unclip the cluster plug from the dash.
Remove the lower column cover. Drop the steering column down, remove the screws that are on the top of the dash along the inside of windshield. There is one screw under each speaker cover and the rest are between the defrost vent and the windshield
The are 2 bolts on the bottom of the dash assembly right next to the tops of the plastic kick trim panels ( one on each side) that face up. Remove theses bolts and rotate the dash assembly towards the seat. You can then reach behind the dash and unfasten the plastic retainers that hold the wiring harness to the dash assembly. A mirror helps to see the plastic retainers, it is a bit tedious but you can get the dash out with out pulling the harness. Just make sure than any electrical connectors that attach directly to the rash are disconnected .
If you take your time and don't force anything you can remove a dash in one piece with no damage.

If I left out any steps some anyone feel free to chime in.

 

[retorq]

Hey I don't know if anyone told you yet but those wire nuts ... WTF?!

Also like L31MaxExpress said, that intake appears to have had those bolt holes slotted for some reason. I know there are intakes like that for Dodge small blocks, you have to plug the portion of the hole you aren't using to prevent leaks ... I've never seen a Chevy intake like that though.