OE lower control arm solution?

[OneBad_95]

Never heard of bolt in lower ball joints only the upper.

i belive the diesels or 1 tons had bolt in lower ball joints

 

[Schurkey]

Never heard of bolt in lower ball joints only the upper.

All of the K trucks have riveted or bolt in ball joints on all 4 control arms if I am not mistaken

Three kinds of lower control arms:
1. Entirely stamped-steel. Bolt-in ball joint.
2. Stamped steel, forged outer end. Press-in ball joint.
3. Forged control arm. Press-in ball joint.

I've never seen #2, but I'm assured that it exists.

They're all interchangeable as an assembly, although I don't promise that the ball joint tapers are the same (they probably are.) The general consensus is that the fully-forged arm is the most desirable.

i belive the diesels or 1 tons had bolt in lower ball joints

My '88 K1500 had riveted, now has bolt-in lower ball joints. OEM uses rivets, when the BJ is replaced the rivets are cut out and bolts used for reassembly. Bolts are wonderful the second time the BJs are replaced--very easy to remove the bolts compared to drilling/chiseling the rivets.

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But my '97 K2500 has fully-forged lower arms, using a press-in BJ.

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These photos are of the left lower BJ. At this point, the right lower is still worn-out. I needed to replace the ABS wheel speed sensor on the left front wheel. Doing that job involved popping the ball joint studs and removing the steering knuckle for access to the hub bolts, and at that point it doesn't make sense to not squeeze in a fresh BJ. But I didn't take time to replace the control arm bushings, or to disassemble the right side; I wanted the vehicle the hell out of the garage as SWMBO's vehicle needed the garage space.

So control arm bushings and right lower BJ are a "next-summer" project.

 

[Caman96]

I have stamped lowers with press in ball joints. I’ll try to post up a picture, 2 ft. snow out there right now. These will be going in next.

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[evilunclegrimace]

Three kinds of lower control arms:
1. Entirely stamped-steel. Bolt-in ball joint.
2. Stamped steel, forged outer end. Press-in ball joint.
3. Forged control arm. Press-in ball joint.

I've never seen #2, but I'm assured that it exists.

They're all interchangeable as an assembly, although I don't promise that the ball joint tapers are the same (they probably are.) The general consensus is that the fully-forged arm is the most desirable.


My '88 K1500 had riveted, now has bolt-in lower ball joints. OEM uses rivets, when the BJ is replaced the rivets are cut out and bolts used for reassembly. Bolts are wonderful the second time the BJs are replaced--very easy to remove the bolts compared to drilling/chiseling the rivets.

You must be registered for see images attach

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But my '97 K2500 has fully-forged lower arms, using a press-in BJ.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

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These photos are of the left lower BJ. At this point, the right lower is still worn-out. I needed to replace the ABS wheel speed sensor on the left front wheel. Doing that job involved popping the ball joint studs and removing the steering knuckle for access to the hub bolts, and at that point it doesn't make sense to not squeeze in a fresh BJ. But I didn't take time to replace the control arm bushings, or to disassemble the right side; I wanted the vehicle the hell out of the garage as SWMBO's vehicle needed the garage space.

So control arm bushings and right lower BJ are a "next-summer" project.

I should have said all early K trucks have bolt in ball joints. My '98 k Suburban has the stamped/forged combo lower control arms with pressed in Ball joints

 

[454cid]

I have stamped lowers with press in ball joints. I’ll try to post up a picture, 2 ft. snow out there right now. These will be going in next.

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That's disappointing that they're made in China. I thought they were supposed to be from Taiwan. I've never had had issue with my US made Moog lowers. The uppers are what I have issues with.... I want sealed boots and even when I order a brand that has sealed boots pictured, I end up with unsealed crap.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Three kinds of lower control arms:
1. Entirely stamped-steel. Bolt-in ball joint.
2. Stamped steel, forged outer end. Press-in ball joint.
3. Forged control arm. Press-in ball joint.

I've never seen #2, but I'm assured that it exists.

Has anyone seen #3 as OE on a K1500, or are they only OE on the K2500s and K3500s?

@Schurkey, you said they're all interchangeable, so #3 could be used on a K1500 regardless, yes?

...with an appropriate taper joint of course.

 

[Caman96]

That's disappointing that they're made in China. I thought they were supposed to be from Taiwan. I've never had had issue with my US made Moog lowers. The uppers are what I have issues with.... I want sealed boots and even when I order a brand that has sealed boots pictured, I end up with unsealed crap.

It is disappointing but Moog, Acdelco, SKP…. China as well. All good reviews that I’ve seen on TTX line. I had Acdelco Professional Series side by side with these and massive difference. Acdelco we’re sloppy like my kids worn out Xbox joy stick. Lots of negative reviews on Moog too. Anyway here’s a picture of my LCA. You can see the transition from stamped to forged.

 

[454cid]

Has anyone seen #3 as OE on a K1500, or are they only OE on the K2500s and K3500s?

@Schurkey, you said they're all interchangeable, so #3 could be used on a K1500 regardless, yes?

...with an appropriate taper joint of course.

The fully forged lowers are 8-lug parts. I think usage on the 6-lug trucks is as simple as swapping it in place. I don't think the taper in the knuckle has to be modified unless swapping in GMT-800 knuckles.

 

[454cid]

It is disappointing but Moog, Acdelco, SKP…. China as well.

All my Moog parts have been US made.

 

[Caman96]

All my Moog parts have been US made.

Depends when you purchased, seems Moog has gone the way of most US manufacturers. Or it could’ve been NOS at parts store. DallasTahoe posted this awhile back. He had recently installed the Moog’s but they apparently didn’t last so he bought the Mevotech.

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