I think I found a keeper. K2500 RCLB (Pigpen)

[Jrgunn5150]

The prop valve you got is for 1/4" line? What made you decide to ditch the factory valve? I was tempted myself but thought I would see how things worked and only replace it if it was needed. So far I don't think I need to replace mine...yet.

I didn't have a factory one, I guess everything happens in the ABS on the newer trucks? There was no valve there at any rate.

This valve has 1/4 fitting's on the brass pictured.

 

[Dylan1991_1500]

Nice, it looks like a quality valve. At first I thought you had bought a line lock and was like 'no way cool!'.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

So today I ordered up the remainder of thing's I need to get it on the road with brakes.

Lugnut4x4 disc brake conversion with stainless hoses and JB7 calipers, ceramic pads. It came to 360 no matter how I changed the options, so I got the best stuff lol.

An OTC flare tool that should be good enough to get my front line re-flared and rear line made up.

And a rear brake distribution block.

Tyler (Sampuppy01) has offered to swap his 14B SF 4.10 open rear for my 3.73 G80 rear, so I'll get the shocks pulled and driveshaft out tomorrow so I can take care of that this weekend. I think I may toss a zero rate on when I swap the rear's.

 

[Cokeman95]

Did deleting your abs cause any lights on the dash?

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[Jrgunn5150]

Did deleting your abs cause any lights on the dash?

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The ABS light came on as the controller is tied into the ECU, and the plugs are just hanging out on the fenderwell lol.

 

[Dylan1991_1500]

On the pre-94 trucks the light shouldn't come on. Mine never did. Now the light might come on as a result of you not having the OEM prop valve which has a switch installed in it.

 

[Justin S]

SS silverados came with a 6 lug 14 bolt. If you track one down with 3.73s let me know lol


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I got a 6 lug 14 bolt sf out of a c2500 with 3.73s, and had the axles redrilled to 5 lug for mine.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

So my Lugnut kit and flare tool showed up today, I guess I need to maneuver my C10 back into the garage and get to work on the rear axle.

I didn't even open the packages so I'm not sure what's in there or anything. I know that I need new lugnuts, and stud's up front, and probably need ot press the studs in with a press, because smacking them with a hammer and extension didn't work at all. I have one flopping around and like five studs I can't even get lugnuts to start on anyway lol.

On the bright side, my tach seems to be arbitrarily not functioning at all, and it runs like poop, and I broke an engine ground (possibly related lol).

Oh, but, glimmer of hope, found my steering play. Pitman arm has a ton of slop in it at the sector shaft, where I wasn't looking lol.

 

[Dylan1991_1500]

You could stack some washers and a lug nut on the stud and pull the stud in that way. That's how I plan to do mine when I get off my lazy ass to actually do it.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

You could stack some washers and a lug nut on the stud and pull the stud in that way. That's how I plan to do mine when I get off my lazy ass to actually do it.

That's how I do it when I can get it to stay seated. The issue I'm having is either my studs or lugnuts are boogered up. Both look fine, but they don't thread together easily. The lug's are the correct M14 thread, so I wonder if the studs aren't, or what the deal is.

At any rate, seems easiest to just replace the whole kaboodle than monkey around with what ones are ok and what one's aren't.

I THINK the lugnut kit comes with new rear studs, but I didn't open it yet to see.