How to lower a 4x4 truck?

[sxcruz]

I have a 1990 GMC sierra K1500 short bed single cab, that i want to lower nothing crazy though maybe a 3/5 drop or 4/6 nothing lower than that though. Let me know if you know any good kits or ways to do it. I also am thinking about converting my 6 lug to a 5 lug to get some 90 style centerline wheels, let me know if you have any tips on that, thanks.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

With that extensive list of invasive mods, you should sell the 4x4 and buy a 2wd.
For a "how to", dial up YouTube and watch Powernation's Project Red Tide...

Any lowering the front more than 3" will have you riding directly on the bumps stops.

Any lowering the rear more than 4" will require an axle flip and a c-notch, and likely extensive bed floor clearancing

Best of luck with the 6 to 5 lug swap. That's dramatically harder than a 5 to 6.




Yeah, so have you found a 2wd yet?

 

[GoToGuy]

Got your own machine shop? With a five axis CNC you can build your hubs. A one time order.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

It’s not hard, this guy simply flipped over his T bar keys and drilled a dimple on them. He was able to get about a 5” drop up front for free and he was able to get it aligned without adjustable upper A arms which I would have assumed he would have needed. I asked him that’s how I know.

In the back you can use the same method as the 2wd. An axle flip kit gives you a 6” drop, adjust it with a shackle if needed and check the pinion angle. Shim if needed.

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[Alteca]

Got your own machine shop? With a five axis CNC you can build your hubs. A one time order.

No need for fancy machine to build custom hubs. I built a custom set for my truck from plate steel with very limited resources at the time and they worked great.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Well this is different. Normally the 4X4 guys want to jack 'em up into the clouds. I see an all wheel drive race truck coming on,50's on the front,45's on the rear.

 

[BCChevyZ71]

Not to revive a dead thread but I went 3+" on the front with belltech keys and 5" rear with belltech drop spring hangers and a 3" drop shackle just clears bed floor two weeks in lots of bumpy roads I looked yesterday and it hasn't touched the bed floor and I'm still off the bump stops...I can provide a complete parts list but it drives and handles better then stock and a million times better then when I had the torsion bars cranked with 33s on it

 

[Ampedracing]

Not to revive a dead thread but I went 3+" on the front with belltech keys and 5" rear with belltech drop spring hangers and a 3" drop shackle just clears bed floor two weeks in lots of bumpy roads I looked yesterday and it hasn't touched the bed floor and I'm still off the bump stops...I can provide a complete parts list but it drives and handles better then stock and a million times better then when I had the torsion bars cranked with 33s on it

I would be interested in your complete parts list. I am planning this soon

 

[Sean Buick 76]

Here’s the parts list for my 4x4 lowering which is 3” front and 5” rear without any axle flip or notch. 4x4 sit 2” higher all around vs 2wd. So 3 and 5 drop is only 1 and 3 vs a 2wd which was fine for me.

I tested out my setup at 3” lowered and 2.5” and settled in the middle at 2.75”. My approach out back is that in order to keep the pinion angle ideal it’s best to use a 2” leaf spring drop Hanger at the front of the leaf pack and a 3” drop shackle at the rear of the leaf. One great advantage to lowering a 4x4 vs a 2x4 is that I can raise or lower the truck an inch either way in about 5 minutes by adjusting the torsion bar adjustment bolts.

If I feel it’s too low in the back I can move it up a notch to the 2” setting of the rear shackle. I went this way instead of swapping the leafs to the underside of the diff but that’s another option. No bed notch for diff clearance needed and no frame c notch needed. I’m still working on my rear end lower job but here’s the front lowered 2.75”. I test drove it with just the front lowered and it works great, no issues, not soggy or soft, better around corners, works well. Once the rear is lowered it will be still capable to do some towing and loading up the bed.

Lots of clearance for driving but much improved vs stock for handling.

 

[Ampedracing]

Here’s the parts list for my 4x4 lowering which is 3” front and 5” rear without any axle flip or notch. 4x4 sit 2” higher all around vs 2wd. So 3 and 5 drop is only 1 and 3 vs a 2wd which was fine for me.

I tested out my setup at 3” lowered and 2.5” and settled in the middle at 2.75”. My approach out back is that in order to keep the pinion angle ideal it’s best to use a 2” leaf spring drop Hanger at the front of the leaf pack and a 3” drop shackle at the rear of the leaf. One great advantage to lowering a 4x4 vs a 2x4 is that I can raise or lower the truck an inch either way in about 5 minutes by adjusting the torsion bar adjustment bolts.

If I feel it’s too low in the back I can move it up a notch to the 2” setting of the rear shackle. I went this way instead of swapping the leafs to the underside of the diff but that’s another option. No bed notch for diff clearance needed and no frame c notch needed. I’m still working on my rear end lower job but here’s the front lowered 2.75”. I test drove it with just the front lowered and it works great, no issues, not soggy or soft, better around corners, works well. Once the rear is lowered it will be still capable to do some towing and loading up the bed.

Lots of clearance for driving but much improved vs stock for handling.

Awesome! Thanks! I go pick up my first GMT400 tomorrow.