How much bass is too much bass?

[df2x4]

That listening test is pretty neat! I reached -21db for the 6 inch driver test on music, although for the last one or two samples I really had to listen to the guitar closely. What an interesting test! Thanks for all the info here Michael, I consider myself at least semi-educated on this stuff and you just taught me a lot. Rep for you, sir.

 

[boy&hisdogs]

That listening test is pretty neat! I reached -21db for the 6 inch driver test on music, although for the last one or two samples I really had to listen to the guitar closely. What an interesting test! Thanks for all the info here Michael, I consider myself at least semi-educated on this stuff and you just taught me a lot. Rep for you, sir.

Lol I only made it to -12dB on the full range test and -18dB on the 6 inch. This isn't really surprising, since I'm the most musically "stunted" person I know. My brother is the kind of guy who can pick up an instrument he's never seen before and be playing a song in 20 minutes. He's always pointing stuff out to me that I couldn't hear to save my life. I'm using fairly nice headphones too, so there's no excuse.

 

[boy&hisdogs]

Does anyone know the RMS wattage that our (95+) head units send to the door speakers? Do you guys recommend coax or separate woofer/tweeter sets? Anything else I should know when choosing door speakers? I'm trying to keep it <$100.

 

[michael hurd]

I would budget more than $ 100 for door speakers, and go with a component set. Co-axials can sound decent, but they tend to suffer more from IMD distortion than a component set, since the tweeter output will be modulated by the cone excursion.

The stock deck puts out about as much power as most aftermarket decks, when you really start reading tests on head units. Somewhere around 18 watts into 4 ohms.

 

[sslow]

I came here expecting something big with a title like that... I'm disappointed

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

[great white]

Does anyone know the RMS wattage that our (95+) head units send to the door speakers?

http://www.davidnavone.com/heresHow/files/OEM vs Aftermarket Decks21.pdf

 

[boy&hisdogs]

I was doing some shopping this morning in the lab and saw that Crutchfield has a buy one get one half off sale on Alpine speakers and subs.
I can get the S-type 6.75" component set, the adapter to fit in the factory location, and a Type-S 12" sub for $235. The sale goes to the end of the month (3/31).

I know they aren't the best of the best, and yes, I know, the type R's are better, but sometimes "good enough" is, well, good enough, especially since the money I save (and don't spend on more expensive stuff) will go towards insulating the cab (and school and my girlfriend and gears and all that other fun stuff). I also noticed that the ideal sealed enclosure volume on that sub is only 0.9 cu ft, which will be nice when trying to build an under-seat box.

I know the spec sheet can't tell you everything, but it's got to count for something:

Speakers:

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Sub:

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So the plan is as follows:
6.75" Alpine S-Type speakers
Alpine 12" S-Type sub (4 ohm DVC, wired in parallel for 2 ohm total)
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D amp
Stock H/U and LOC
PAC AAI GM9 aux input. (ordered this last night)
Home built, down firing sealed sub box
4ga wire for the subs

Am I missing anything? Will I need crossovers for the speakers?

 

[michael hurd]

The crossovers will come with the component speaker set: If they are the same mount as the Type R's you need to very carefully pry the tweeter out of the bucket it comes in so that you can install it in the factory location. Swivel the tweeter one way or the other and be careful not to damage the wire connection. I mounted the crossover with the provided 2 way tape on the lower door panel.

I have an Alpine Type E sub myself, because that's what fit in my box.

 

[boy&hisdogs]

The crossovers will come with the component speaker set: If they are the same mount as the Type R's you need to very carefully pry the tweeter out of the bucket it comes in so that you can install it in the factory location. Swivel the tweeter one way or the other and be careful not to damage the wire connection. I mounted the crossover with the provided 2 way tape on the lower door panel.

I have an Alpine Type E sub myself, because that's what fit in my box.

Ahhh... now I see. The crossovers are built into the speakers, not external like the Type-Rs. I found a box for sale and pretty cheap to boot. It's exactly the size I need.
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2395094/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046

Is there anything I should be aware of with this particular box, or anything missing that I could gain by building it myself? The only thing I can spot is that it says it only accepts up to 10ga wire, whereas the sub itself will take 8. Will there be a noticeable loss of sound quality or excess heat from this? Would it be worth modifying to take 8ga?

I've got all the tools and drafting skills to design and build one from scratch, not to mention more screws than i know what to do with. The only thing I would need to buy would be the MDF itself and some carpet, and I really wouldn't mind the extra work if I knew I was getting a little something extra out of it.

Also I have a few questions about sound deadening. Do I need to put any dampener on the outer door skin if I already put some on the inner (concerning door speaker performance)? I'm planing on using some closed cell foam and MLV as the bulk of my insulation but I don't really know what to use (or if I even need it at all) for a dampener, other than purpose-sold/marketed damper products. What about thermal insulation? Can I just use space blankets and call it a day? Do I even need it if I already have CCF and MLV? Could I use the space blanket material as the decoupler instead of CCF and have it pull double duty that way?

Thanks for all the help by the way, I've learned more from you in the past couple days than I have at school all week.

 

[sewlow]

http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?14475-sound-deadening&highlight=deadener