Fog light placement

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1997chevydriver

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Not to steal the thread but but does anyone know as far and hooking up the fog lights with an oem switch on a 97 gmc ecsb that didnt have them before? Like where they would be plugged in to the fuse box and what not?

Sent from fiberglass covered Galaxy S3

Not sure except making your harness or buying one
 

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Not to steal the thread but but does anyone know as far and hooking up the fog lights with an oem switch on a 97 gmc ecsb that didnt have them before? Like where they would be plugged in to the fuse box and what not?

Sent from fiberglass covered Galaxy S3

Auxiliary posts would probably be your best bet. Thats the bigger fuse box under the hood, not the side-dash one. Get some always hot 12v to your OEM dash switch (orange wire most likely), and wire the connecting wire (blue with white stripe) to a relay. Said relay will power these non-factory fog lights. To use the full potential of the relay, wire straight from the battery and put an inline fuse 6 inches after the battery. If you want to strictly use the fuse box, again, just wire the power to your relay from one of the auxiliary posts (should be two of them and they both come with big 30 amp fuses). Be sure to use bigger wire for the power to your fogs. The power to your switch and to turn on/off the relay can be as simple as 18g wire.

I'm only a kid so feel free to correct me anyone with far more experience. That's just the way I would do it. (thats the way I AM going to do it when I put in my ambers. Gonna plug it into a cargo switch until I get the mysterious fog light/aux light OEM dash switch.) Don't wanna run power straight through the OEM switch and to the fogs... not gonna get decent enough power to the fogs and you could possibly fry your switch if it gets too hot.


Or you could buy a harness... can't help you from that standpoint seeing as I'm new to that too. lol
 
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1997chevydriver

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Don't wanna run power straight through the OEM switch and to the fogs... not gonna get decent enough power to the fogs and you could possibly fry your switch if it gets too hot.

Exactly. If you ever open up a factory fog switch the contacts in them are damn thin I wouldn't trust 1 bulb running thru it without it bursting into flames.
 

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Exactly. If you ever open up a factory fog switch the contacts in them are damn thin I wouldn't trust 1 driving/fog bulb running thru it without it bursting into flames.

And if I knew anyone who learned from that mistake with a factory fog light switch...I'd have to have a few unpleasant words with them...
 

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Thats part of it and the fact the hd harness adds more then 4hi...it is made out of marine grade 12 ga wire and adds a relay to get full voltage from the battery instead of trying to power higher wattage bulbs/hids through the stock undersized wiring.
The factory wiring is fine, but there is voltage drop through the switch.

It's putting a big strain on your headlight switch then. On these trucks the voltage for the lighting all goes through the headlight switch and dimmer. That's why the switch gets so hot. using the relay harness takes a majority of the load off the switch since all it's doing now is firing the relays. Plus like I said you get full voltage at the bulbs instead of 11v or worse.

Mean greens harness is the best I've used, which is why I recommend it. It's made with real 12 ga wire of good quality, good relays etc. I've used the lmc harness before an basically had to rebuild it after about 3 or 4 months. I haven't touched barons harness since install. Those Chinese harness are notorious for using under sized wiring that appear to be the right size because the insulation is much thicker than it should be.

With anything your mileage will vary an I'm glad your setup is working for you. I could have done a 4 hi myself to, but since I was getting the hd harness I just had baron add it in....
Is the HD harness nice to have? Yes. I will probably make my own if I have the time to put it together.

I'm just saying everyone of these threads someone scares the OP into thinking they need a whole new wiring harness for HIDs.

HOLY- what meathead designed THAT???? I'm not an electrician in any sense of the word but that is just plain wrong! haha
Many manufacturers have wired headlights through the dash switches for years. Probably not as common on new cars, but I don't ride in very many new cars let alone drive them.
 

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The factory wiring is fine, but there is voltage drop through the switch. I'm just saying everyone of these threads someone scares the OP into thinking they need a whole new wiring harness for HIDs.

Its fine, but is it really the right tool for the job? no, not really. Most factory wiring is bare-minimum for its application.

I figured everyone was scaring me into getting a new harness, and that was why I was originally reluctant. But a lot of positive testimony from seemingly reliable and experienced members have convinced me.

It really comes down to "what is your time worth to you?" To me, my time is near-free because I don't have a full time job and no one to support, so I have all the time in the world to do stuff like make my own harness. To my father, his time is worth what he earns on a normal business day hourly wage. If it'll cost more to do it on his own time and by himself, he has someone professional do it. But at the same time, I'm sick of running around and looking for good quality electrical components. To me, the harness is probably worth twice the time and effort it'll cost me to put together something of equal quality, because I don't have these supplies laying around and no where near the definition of "close" to town.

Its cool that you built your own and kudos for it holding up and it working for what you want. I'd rather trust someone professional with this wiring until I get better at it. God forbid I make my own harness and going 70 at 11:50pm trying to make it back home on a country highway, all my lights go out because of a poor connection or some other failure that I must have overlooked.
 
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