Fog light placement

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

great white

Retirement countdown!
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
6,266
Reaction score
209
Not sure if that was the Chianti talking, you just straight up forgot, or I'm being real picky. I would appreciate an illustrated diagram and maybe a few links to some decent and reliable sellers of electronic components online, if you know of any. Whenever its convenient for you.

I have recently been made aware of mechanical issues my truck has and that repair/replacement of these issues will cost me money. Thankfully, I have friends willing to do the labor for free, but parts need to be paid for. This is going to eat the money I was gonna spend on Mean Green's harness. I still want to have the 4-Hi mod before summer, well before summer when I get working again.

In other words, until I can afford Mean Green's 4-Hi HD harness (July most likely), I'm gonna have to buck up and make my own "budget harness" (less than $~30). Less heatshrink, more electrical tape. More solder, less wiring terminals. Less split-loom (sh*ts expensive), more zip-ties and black duct-tape. Its gonna be as n*gger-rigged as my electronic OCD will allow. Yeah, I'm a hypocrite. Oh well. Things happen, plans change, people change, land will always be a good investment, true facts, etc...

Work is very busy with personnel assessments right now (annual thing). Its that time of year again and everybody loves it....:(

Your last post on it made it sound like you were buying the harness so i just let it slide.

I'll try and get to it but it probably wont be for a week or so. I've got 40 assessments to write up...
 

Sumbitch

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
475
Reaction score
12
Location
USA
Work is very busy with personnel assessments right now (annual thing). Its that time of year again and everybody loves it....:(

Your last post on it made it sound like you were buying the harness so i just let it slide.

I'll try and get to it but it probably wont be for a week or so. I've got 40 assessments to write up...

No rush, just glad to hear I'll have it eventually. :)

Plus, I'll be getting a small paycheck next week (~$100 for sure, spring break<work) that a lil chunk (~$30) can go towards getting supplies. The rest is getting me new brake calipers, and hopefully ceramic brakes so I don't have black rims up front.
 
Last edited:

Half Assed

WINNERS NEVER LIFT
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Messages
1,216
Reaction score
41
Location
SARASOTA
I made ya a diagram. Use 3 relays, 2 fuses, 12 gauge wire.


You must be registered for see images attach
 

Sumbitch

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
475
Reaction score
12
Location
USA
I made ya a diagram. Use 3 relays, 2 fuses, 12 gauge wire.


You must be registered for see images attach
How very professional of you. lol. I use paint for any diagrams I make for myself or friends. Thanks.

Automotive bulbs are male plugs correct? Therefore, I would want to order some cheapy male plugs for the stock connectors (wired into the relays) and some decent quality female plugs that will plug into my lights. Yes? No? Remember, I ain't gonna splice if I don't have to. Wanna keep my stock wiring as "pure" as possible. :)
 

great white

Retirement countdown!
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
6,266
Reaction score
209
I made ya a diagram. Use 3 relays, 2 fuses, 12 gauge wire.


You must be registered for see images attach

Pretty close to the way i do it except I use double relays for double feed to the lights instead of one wire split at the end of the run and I take my trigger from inside the cab at hte headlight switch to remove the power from the multifunction switch for the lows....
 

thered95

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
136
Reaction score
3
also you don't need the relay for the 4 high. all you need is a diode between the 2 trigger wire. this will allow you to have 1 less relay to mount.

for the light end you want male plugs and for the stock wiring side you want the female plugs.
 

great white

Retirement countdown!
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
6,266
Reaction score
209
also you don't need the relay for the 4 high. all you need is a diode between the 2 trigger wire. this will allow you to have 1 less relay to mount.

for the light end you want male plugs and for the stock wiring side you want the female plugs.

I personally prefer the relay.

Cheap, readily available, durable and available at any auto store if it ever does pop.

I've also seen lots of diodes blow through on these kind of current draws...
 

Sumbitch

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
475
Reaction score
12
Location
USA
Pretty close to the way i do it except I use double relays for double feed to the lights instead of one wire split at the end of the run and I take my trigger from inside the cab at hte headlight switch to remove the power from the multifunction switch for the lows....

Got the first part of that, one relay per bulb is what I'm getting outta what you said. The second part of what you said... I'm sorta iffy on... you are saying you took the power from the headlight switch to turn on the relay for the low beams? You seem to use much different terminology than I am used to. No doubt its the correct terminology, but still unfamiliar to me.

Honestly, what Half Assed posted seems simple enough to do. If you wish to draw up a diagram that includes the two above mentioned differences, feel free to do so. Otherwise, I think I can manage with what Half Assed showed me. Thanks!

EDIT: I shouldn't wait forever to hit the post button... saw what you two said. I'd personally prefer having a relay for the 4-hi, for the exact reasons great white explained.

http://www.delcity.net/store/12-gauge/p_181401 15-ft for $5.73 (15 feet should be enough.... right?) otherwise for the same price I can get 25ft of 14g wire. running simple halogens, I wouldn't think its vital to have 12g wire over 14g. I wouldn't think...

Same price will get me 45ft of 18g wire... but I still have lampshade wire from my mudflap project (and from practically using it on every external light project since) that should be enough for the relay triggers and grounds. Don't need to spend money on that.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-Ring-Terminals/p_802005.h_792043.t_1 for connecting to the battery...

http://www.delcity.net/store/5-Pin-Relay-with-Mounting-Bracket/p_73576 Three of these puppies'll cost me $10. I gots terminals for em in my dad's van.

I've always liked the simplicity and clean-look of aftermarket fuse panel but for $10 for one 6-terminal panel, and $1.50 for one waterproof 12g in-line fuse holder, I'm gonna go with in-line... or for $4 I could get a 4-terminal block...which would accommodate my highs, lows, and two other aux electronics. Not sure... probs in-line cause the only place I would put any of my own relays, fuse blocks, etc, would be in my factory storage that takes place of the second battery tray (which is too far away to safely put a fuse in, according to most aftermarket automotive electronics experts). I only keep oil rags in there and if you've read my build, I rarely use them... Thats a lot to just say "I'm buying $1.50 in-line fuse holders." And some 15 amp fuses to go with.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Halogen-Headlight-Socket-Fits-9006/p_798112 $14 for four of them... take em apart, pull the wiring outta them and solder 12-14g wires to them.

http://www.delcity.net/catalogorder Approx. $38.84 before shipping and thats not including finding some female 9006 plugs. I'm sure if I shopped locally I could find wiring and terminals for cheaper. If anyone else knows a place with quality electrical components for cheaper (not ebay... I wanna order all this under one shipping cost). ~$40 isn't what I planned on, but its under half of what the HD 4-Hi would cost and right now that works for me.... or would I just be better off saving? Arg....
 
Last edited:

2dr Friggs

Newbie
Joined
Mar 20, 2013
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
hey guys,
i'm adam, just finally registered with GMT400. Been on FSC for a couple years. Ill have to do an intro post in the near future but for now here is my situation.

my 4l60e crapped out on me a couple months ago. I got a $6000 loan which MOST of that is for my tahoe (97 2 door 4x4, pics later). My baby's in the tranny shop getting a sweet heavy duty rebuild by a phenomenal transmission mechanic. Other things i'm getting or already got; alpine sub and amp, optima redtop, bilsteins, MAYBE alternator.

Which brings me to this thread. This is my third 2 door hoe, i've always wanted foglights but never have. My TYCs w/ DDM HIDs is plenty fine for me lighting up down the road. What i want is that extremely wide beam pattern of fogs.

Ive decided against a brush guard or bull bar. Im partial to the idea of cutting into the valence, mostly because its so low. What i do want is a new bumper. I LOVE the look of the Diesel ones (88GMCtruck). I think ive narrowed it down to 2. One is from LMC truck and has the (included) lights similar to the diesel bumper. The other one has the (circle) holes for the lights out by the corners. I like the look of square/rectangular lights on the OBS.

My question really is this; do those lights that are close to the license plate throw a pretty wide beam? where and how much could i find a diesel bumper for? and what do you guys think about these two bumpers?

LMC lighted bumper http://www.lmctruck.com/features/csd/csdbmc.htm

other bumper with circle holes http://www.partstrain.com/store/det...8_Cyl_5-dot-7L/MT-1040303.html?location=Front
 

thered95

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
136
Reaction score
3
I personally prefer the relay.

Cheap, readily available, durable and available at any auto store if it ever does pop.

I've also seen lots of diodes blow through on these kind of current draws...

a relay is a mechanical action to turn on. any mechanical action has a failure rate. using a diode is a solid state action thus less failure rate. thus why i would also like to use solid state relays in my truck if it weren't for the cost.

what current draws? the .12A that it takes to to turn on a relay. i use automotive diodes that a shaped in a micro fuse and handle 2A. i mount them in a weatherproof fuse holder so even weather will not get to it. and is located behind the park lamp so if for some reason it did blow you could replace it with a normal 2a diode from radio shack for about $.50 were as a relay from the autoparts store is about $5 and my local doesn't even stock standard 30/40 relays.
 
Top