Fog light placement

[sewlow]

I think that there may be some confusion here. Could be on my part, but as I've been reading this thread, there seems to be a lack of distinction of what's being referred to.
The 4-HI mod is not the same as an HD headlight harness. Seperate entities, but the 4-Hi can be combined into the HD harness. They can be used seperately but, probably should be used in conjunction with each other.
I don't have HD harness yet, but I am using the 4-Hi mod.
I have not converted to HID's, but I do have a shelf full of 9005/9006 halogens bulbs which I have tried & been disappointed with. So far, the best halogen bulbs that I've found are called 'EuroDezigns'. Super white with no blue tinge. Nice wide pattern.
But, (BUT!!!) while those bulbs give a very nice light to drive behind, when I pulled the housings to re-seal them (condensation) I found that the heat of the EuroDezigns bulbs have bubbled the chrome inside the housing right above the bulb itself. Aaaarrrggghhh!!!
Also...I've found that the H/L switch gets pretty darn hot. Probably due to using a 4-Hi mod with the stock harness. I carry a second H/L switch as a back-up in the console, just in case. So, when I can afford it, I will be purchasing Baron's HD harness, & converting to HID's.
Once you see a 4-Hi wiring kit, you'll see that they are pretty simple to make up yourself, but unless you have one right there to duplicate exactly, the time involved to scratch build one...well, my time is better spent doing what I know best. I can make more $$$ in the same time, so it works out cheaper just to purchase one. And, I might as well spend that $$$ wisely and get a kit that I know is gonna work right the first time, everytime.
Baron's stuff works. It's over-built. He has a proven track record, both here & on ebay. In all my dealings with him, (My blue truck was the guinea pig for the foglight harness. I have the first one.) he has provided quality components at a fair price, & delivered on time. I've never met him personally, but I am very comfortable recommending his products & services.

 

[Half Assed]

I have seen 2 different 4-high wiring kits. One splices power for the low beams from the high beam wiring. DO NOT DO THAT. The proper way is to use a relay found in other wiring kits.
The 4 high mod done correctly will not affect the head light switch.

If you cannot wire a 4-high yourself and be confident it won't fall apart, then Baron's harness is for you and you need to refrain from touching anything electrical.

 

[sewlow]

you need to refrain from touching anything electrical.

Was that aimed a me? LOL!!! My 4-Hi is a Baron kit. With a relay!
My switch gets hot because of the extra load from using the stock wiring with a 4-Hi mod.
Like I said. An HD harness is recommended with the 4-Hi mod.

 

[Half Assed]

Was that aimed a me? LOL!!! My 4-Hi is a Baron kit. With a relay!
My switch gets hot because of the extra load from using the stock wiring with a 4-Hi mod.
Like I said. An HD harness is recommended with the 4-Hi mod.

Not exactly, the OP said he wasn't confident wiring up the 4-high.

The switch should not have any extra load with 4-high. When the high beams are on the switch might feel hotter (more wattage than low beams) but with a good 4-high wiring kit (with a relay) the low beams completely bypass the head light switch.

It is normal for the switch to get hot. Not hot enough to burn your fingers and melt plastic though.

 

[sewlow]

No probs! Was just wondering!
And, yea, the switch gets 'warm', (shoulda specified that) but I don't think it'll be doing a nuclear meltdown from the heat.
Maybe it's just the design of the switch, with the big control knob that wicks the heat from the control in the dash, but this is the only vehicle that I've ever owned (GM exclusively) that I've noticed that the control knob gets as warm as it does.

 

[88GMCtruck]

Everything prior to the GMT800 truck run all the current through the headlight switch. Bad design IMO.

I have went through so many headlight switches in my 88, from running parking lights with attached trailers. I finally relayed the parking light feed to the trailer plug direct to the battery.

 

[great white]

If you want, I can make up a "simple simon" diagram that will let you do the wiring upgrade from the battery to the lights and the 4Hi modification at hte same time.

All you need is some heat shrink, solder, flux, a couple 30A relays, 12 gauge wiring and a couple hours of free time.

I did my own and built a relay/power center while I was at it:

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I draw the trigger for the relays form the dash switch so all it does is carry the amperage for the relay coil and it bypasses the failure prone column switches.

Mine is a diesel and your vortec would have the PCM in that location, but you get the idea. You also wouldn't have to go so deep into it, I'm a bit **** when it comes to electrical.....

Of course, I'll have to let this bottle of Chianti work it's way out of my system before I draw anything.......

 

[Sumbitch]

Once you see a 4-Hi wiring kit, you'll see that they are pretty simple to make up yourself, but unless you have one right there to duplicate exactly, the time involved to scratch build one...well, my time is better spent doing what I know best. I can make more $$$ in the same time, so it works out cheaper just to purchase one. And, I might as well spend that $$$ wisely and get a kit that I know is gonna work right the first time, everytime.

Exactly my point. No different than someone going to a shop to get their exhaust done, when they are probably just as capable of doing it themselves for cheaper. Why do they do it? Better to spend money than time that is worth more than the money spent and to eliminate variables. A guy who does something over and over again will know more practical shortcuts and tricks to something than someone who is doing it for their first time. 99% of the time that is.

If you cannot wire a 4-high yourself and be confident it won't fall apart, then Baron's harness is for you and you need to refrain from touching anything electrical.

Eh. I'll keep playing with wires. So far the only thing I've done electrical wise that has failed was used in an electronically hostile application. i.e. my mudflaps. But, why take my chances with the only things that keep the road ahead of me visible?

Of course, I'll have to let this bottle of Chianti work it's way out of my system before I draw anything.......

If you want, I can make up a "simple simon" diagram that will let you do the wiring upgrade from the battery to the lights and the 4Hi modification at the same time. All you need is some heat shrink, solder, flux, a couple 30A relays, 12 gauge wiring and a couple hours of free time.

Please, once you sober up, feel free to draw a simple diagram for it. If not for me, for others who wish to do the 4-hi but share the same confidence Half Assed has. Who knows, maybe I will make my own and it will be the greatest harness to ever connect power to lights! But I've got a better chance of winning the lottery after a hole-in-one.



REALLY could have used amber fogs tonight. Hardly could see with my low beam halogens and the only set of tracks I could see happened to be my buddie's wide tires way up ahead of me. Snows getting deep and fast.

 

[Sumbitch]

If you want, I can make up a "simple simon" diagram that will let you do the wiring upgrade from the battery to the lights and the 4Hi modification at hte same time...

Not sure if that was the Chianti talking, you just straight up forgot, or I'm being real picky. I would appreciate an illustrated diagram and maybe a few links to some decent and reliable sellers of electronic components online, if you know of any. Whenever its convenient for you.

I have recently been made aware of mechanical issues my truck has and that repair/replacement of these issues will cost me money. Thankfully, I have friends willing to do the labor for free, but parts need to be paid for. This is going to eat the money I was gonna spend on Mean Green's harness. I still want to have the 4-Hi mod before summer, well before summer when I get working again.

In other words, until I can afford Mean Green's 4-Hi HD harness (July most likely), I'm gonna have to buck up and make my own "budget harness" (less than $~30). Less heatshrink, more electrical tape. More solder, less wiring terminals. Less split-loom (sh*ts expensive), more zip-ties and black duct-tape. Its gonna be as n*gger-rigged as my electronic OCD will allow. Yeah, I'm a hypocrite. Oh well. Things happen, plans change, people change, land will always be a good investment, true facts, etc...

 

[Darkrider]

Not sure if that was the Chianti talking, you just straight up forgot, or I'm being real picky. I would appreciate an illustrated diagram and maybe a few links to some decent and reliable sellers of electronic components online, if you know of any. Whenever its convenient for you.

I have recently been made aware of mechanical issues my truck has and that repair/replacement of these issues will cost me money. Thankfully, I have friends willing to do the labor for free, but parts need to be paid for. This is going to eat the money I was gonna spend on Mean Green's harness. I still want to have the 4-Hi mod before summer, well before summer when I get working again.

In other words, until I can afford Mean Green's 4-Hi HD harness (July most likely), I'm gonna have to buck up and make my own "budget harness" (less than $~30). Less heatshrink, more electrical tape. More solder, less wiring terminals. Less split-loom (sh*ts expensive), more zip-ties and black duct-tape. Its gonna be as n*gger-rigged as my electronic OCD will allow. Yeah, I'm a hypocrite. Oh well. Things happen, plans change, people change, land will always be a good investment, true facts, etc...

As long as you use decent quality wire and follow suggestions provided by great white you will be fine.

Sent from a 6.5 Detroit Diesel powered smartphone