Engines 101

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NCBrochacho

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Hey all. Purchased a 98 K1500 from father in law (he was 2nd owner) couple months ago. I have my list of everything I need to improve aesthetics but now want to move into engine performance. The only upgrades I've noticed are tires/wheels (265s] and dual exhaust (Flowmaster) header back. I need to recheck if they're shorty.headers or stock.
I have zero to limited knowledge of engines and everything that stems from there. Aesthetics are easy. What are some reliable resources to learn engine "anatomy and physiology"? From here I can decide what I can afford to swap, add, etc. I don't want to ask generic "what's the best.......?" as everyone may have a unique want or need.

Thanks and appreciate what I've learned so far!
 
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NCBrochacho

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NOT an everyday driver (mostly short trips or sunday drives through countryside). Rarely hauling. My wish position.....like most >HP but want it to be quicker, sensitivity on the gas pedal and tighter steering. Not trying to set new land speed record but I want it to move... I like the tire size and stance with its slight rake.
 

Moofus02

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Exhaust you mentioned should wake it up. 0411 swap and tuning it yourself I'm sure will bring out more. You can tune the 0411 with about 100 bucks worth of hardware and free software
 

RichLo

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In the throttle body, you'll see a half moon-shaped thing on the throttle blade. Remove it. Better throttle response and more HP. I like to shave them down so I dont have to worry about plugging the rivet holes. Just clean it up really good before re-installing the blade and dont lose the small bolts down inside the intake.

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Schurkey

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now want to move into engine performance. The only upgrades I've noticed are tires/wheels (265s] and dual exhaust (Flowmaster) header back. I need to recheck if they're shorty.headers or stock.
I have zero to limited knowledge of engines
FIRST thing you need to know about "engines" is that all engine work comes AFTER all the "Safety" work, and in almost all cases, after all the deferred maintenance.

Verify Steering, Suspension, and Brakes before dicking with the engine. Everything rubber is suspect--tires, control arm bushings, body bushings, belts, hoses, (including the three brake hoses) etc. Assure that the brake linings are acceptable. Check the ball joints, tie rod ends, Pitman and Idler arms. Steering gear "rag joints" are an epidemic problem with these trucks.

Then look into flushing ALL the fluids (except, maybe, the A/C refrigerant and filter/dryer) and changing the filters. Verify condition of the radiator, fix any fluid leaks at the axles, differentials, transmission/transfer case, etc. Assure that the differential and transfer case vent hoses are in place and not blocked.

Make sure all the light-bulbs are functional--dashboard including instrument cluster, radio, HVAC control head, along with headlights, turnsignals, brake lights, etc.

AFTER all the safety items and deferred maintenance of the rest of the vehicle is complete, inspect all the "tune-up" items and procedures: Distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, PCV, EGR, EVAP, and AIR systems as required. Connect a scan tool, look for "codes" but more important, verify all the sensors and computer outputs. Look at the fuel trims and the misfire counts per cylinder. Make sure the engine has all the horsies the engine was born with.


What are some reliable resources to learn engine "anatomy and physiology"?
Amazon has a dozen books that could be helpful, but THE BEST source of info on your vehicle is the Genuine GM service manual set, available for free download from the links posted in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum of this web site.
 

Komet

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The book "John Lingenfelter on Modifying Small-block Chevy Engines" might be of interest to you. It's been out of print for a while but isn't too terribly expensive and goes through all the basics of what stuff does and how adding power in the EFI Gen 1 SBC era was done.
 
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