cranking torsion keys

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Swims350

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none of the pics work, you can crank your bars if you want, but you're just gonna tear up front end parts faster and have a stiff ride.

IMO look at the upper control arm, see if it is laying on the metal tab under it closer to the cab, if so then you aint cranking much further, that is the droop stop, which means, NO downward travel at ALL.

If it's not then yea crank it. IMO a 3 inch block is way too much out back 2 inch is pushing it when you try to crank to level.

The guy you got it from wasted money on keys, they do nothing. maybe if your bars are sagging they might, not sure. If they do then I need a set, but I don't know. I do know the stockers will get you 2-3 inches of lift with good bars.
 

fleischmann95

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ok so i uploaded the pictures to an album on my profile page, i will go with the body lift eventually. but the leveling kets have to work why otherwise would i be able to clear 35' tires in the front with keys that arent even cranked all the way, and i know the leveling keys only go from 1.5' to 2'.
 

96k1500

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You can crank the torsion bars a little bit without hurting the front end as bad but cranking them all the way puts everything in a bind on the front end causing them to wear out
 

dirtridinz71

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If you want get a picture of the front of your truck to show your control arm angles, we can tell how much you are cranked. As for cutting I wouldn't think twice about taking a grinder to that what looks to be once painted chrome front bumper. IMO a body lift would be the best option and look the best, but does cost more. Heres a picture of to much crank.

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Southern Pride

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The couple of inches you'd gain from cranking could NEVER be worth the way your truck would ride, ever. You wouldn't be able to stand it. The most these trucks can go is 2" of crank, and that's max, before you notice the ride getting terrible, extreme pre-mature wear of front susp. parts, and good luck keeping the steering wheel straight going down the road.

That said, you should definitely post up some pictures of where your keys are at now and pictures of your front susp. angles and we can tell you where you're at, and if you can go anymore. Some typical 2" lift shocks wouldn't be a bad idea either, IF you decide to keep it right about 2" of crank. Right now, I'm @ about 1.5" of crank and it rides GREAT.

Honestly, here's what I would do. That 3" block is pretty stout for the rear. I would replace it with a 2" atleast so your rear end isn't higher than the front. I think that "texas rake" just looks horrible, so that's why I say go with a 2" block + 2" crank in the front so you're level. THEN slap on a 2-3" body lift. The body lifts aren't the best looking lift out there but the one thing that is great about them is you're just lifting the body to clear your 35's, so it does not affect your front suspension AT ALL. There will be no difference in the ride. Other than that, like I said some 2" lift shocks all around would really help with the added 2" block/crank. THAT is what I would suggest. If you do decide to crank all the way, then atleast you'll know and be able to warn other people not to do it down the road.
 

Swims350

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some ppl don't mind how it rides others hate it.

As for 2 inch block in the back and 2 inch crank, that's NOT level, only if it's been leveled before OR if the back is sagging, the trucks have a 2 inch texas rake stock, so in theory you'd need 2 inches up front and nothing in the back, or if you do 2 inches out back that's 4 inches in front. I'd rather have rake then aweful cali lean crap.
 
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